Daven My first was aTC 54 cap 1982 Kit gun. Grandson has it now was a real shooter .For RB I used 42grs 2ff Max-ball 110 2ff Goex.Now to tell if your friends gun is a factory or Kit.Look at serial no, if it has a K in front of numbers it is a kit. Under barrel in channel there is a K in wood back by breechplug if a kit. Now if a kit not worth as much in my opinon. Now if a kit the warranty is only good on metal parts. Hope this helps .Have 3 TCS good guns.
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1st Muzzleloader -- New Cabela's or Used T/C?
- Thread starter Daven
- Start date
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My experience with used muzzleloaders has been similar to that of SCATTERSHOT, all I've messed with have had bad bores, either pitted or ringed. I've sworn off buying used muzzleloaders unless I can get them cheap enough to justify replacing the barrel.
However, with T/C's warranty you can get a bad barrel replaced free of charge. :grin:
However, with T/C's warranty you can get a bad barrel replaced free of charge. :grin:
Hi Dave,
Welcome to the forum. I've got a closetful of T/Cs, all good, and T/C is what I recommend for anyone. T/C, as a company, has treated me far better than I've deserved...those guys are great.
That said, I've also got a couple of Investarms guns; a Lyman GPR and a Cabela Hawken Sporter carbine. I like both guns and they are both shooters. The fit and overall quality on the Cabela Hawken is almost as good as T/C; can't say the same for the GPR. The Cabela carbine is also very handy and comfortable to shoot with its shotgun style recoil pad. Got it New-In-Box off one of the auction sites for under $200 shipped. But I wouldn't recommend the carbine for you as its 1-in-24 twist rate is too quick for good PRB performance.
One thing no one's mentioned: The max load recommended for given projectile in a T/C is 20gr. heavier than the max recommended for an Investarms gun. The max load listed in the manual for a .50 PRB in a T/C is 110 gr. of ffg while for Investarms it's 90 gr. This convention follows for other projectiles and calibers.
Now, for your application, it's mostly academic. Using max loads on the target range makes no sense. But it does indicate that there's a greater margin of safety with the T/C whatever load you're using.
FWIW
Bob
Welcome to the forum. I've got a closetful of T/Cs, all good, and T/C is what I recommend for anyone. T/C, as a company, has treated me far better than I've deserved...those guys are great.
That said, I've also got a couple of Investarms guns; a Lyman GPR and a Cabela Hawken Sporter carbine. I like both guns and they are both shooters. The fit and overall quality on the Cabela Hawken is almost as good as T/C; can't say the same for the GPR. The Cabela carbine is also very handy and comfortable to shoot with its shotgun style recoil pad. Got it New-In-Box off one of the auction sites for under $200 shipped. But I wouldn't recommend the carbine for you as its 1-in-24 twist rate is too quick for good PRB performance.
One thing no one's mentioned: The max load recommended for given projectile in a T/C is 20gr. heavier than the max recommended for an Investarms gun. The max load listed in the manual for a .50 PRB in a T/C is 110 gr. of ffg while for Investarms it's 90 gr. This convention follows for other projectiles and calibers.
Now, for your application, it's mostly academic. Using max loads on the target range makes no sense. But it does indicate that there's a greater margin of safety with the T/C whatever load you're using.
FWIW
Bob
Landngroove
45 Cal.
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T/C Hawken, for sure. With T/C's warranty, and quality, you can't go wrong. Like the others said, check the bore to be sure it has been cared for. Another plus for the T/C, if for some reason down the line, you decide to sell your T/C, it will retain its value, provided you take care of it.
Bill Bryan
40 Cal.
My first guns were from Dixie Gun Works and Thompson Center. I've still got them both over 30 years later. I can vouch for the Thompson Center guarentee. I've replaced parts 3 times on the T/C for free and received a lot of help along the way. I like an American company also.
ib_crawlin
32 Cal.
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That's good info Boar- Dilly.
I had no idea "K" numbered T/C's were from kits. Last summer I bought two used T/C hawkins. One is a.45 flinter with the serial # 94xx. (an early one?) The other one is a .50 caplock with the number K460xx.
I sent the stripped stock from the "K" gun in for replacement, (cracked behind the lock) and T/C sent me a new one, free of charge. (New brass fittings, with the exception of the triggerguard, were included.) I don't recall if the stock was marked in any way.
I think a used T/C Hawkin would make a great first muzzleloader and their customer service is excellent. I've had four of 'em so far and with the exception of the early flintlock model, (bum lock, T/C replaced it free of charge),I have been really pleased with the fit, finish and function of my Hawkins.
Thanks,
Ron
I had no idea "K" numbered T/C's were from kits. Last summer I bought two used T/C hawkins. One is a.45 flinter with the serial # 94xx. (an early one?) The other one is a .50 caplock with the number K460xx.
I sent the stripped stock from the "K" gun in for replacement, (cracked behind the lock) and T/C sent me a new one, free of charge. (New brass fittings, with the exception of the triggerguard, were included.) I don't recall if the stock was marked in any way.
I think a used T/C Hawkin would make a great first muzzleloader and their customer service is excellent. I've had four of 'em so far and with the exception of the early flintlock model, (bum lock, T/C replaced it free of charge),I have been really pleased with the fit, finish and function of my Hawkins.
Thanks,
Ron
- Joined
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I have a T/C Hawken that I bought in a Pawn Shop for $100.00 out the door. It looked new, like it had not been shot very much. Probably hung on the wall most of the time. Look in the pawn shops and don't buy the first one you see, check every pawn shop in your area. See what they have, then decide which one you want. The rifle I bought had rust in the barrell, it cleaned up real nice. I striped the factory spray on finish on it off and refinished it with Tru-Oil and it looks great. The thing about buying a T/C, is that if you can find a Hawken with a nice stock, but the barrel isn't savable, you can buy a Green Mountain barrel or T/C Roundball Barrel for it, and have a real nice Rifle. And you still would only have in it, what you would pay for a used one, on one of the Actions.
Good luck,
Robert
NRA Life Member
TSRA Life Member
Good luck,
Robert
NRA Life Member
TSRA Life Member
Another vote for T/C 50 cal. I my T/C shots both Real BP and BP subs without problems. At 50 Yards my T/C (from Bench Rest) puts Roundballs on top of one another. Overall a great gun. I bought my new from DicksSporting Goods store for half price. Check around. Weclome and Good Luck
Pittsburghunter
50 Cal.
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- Apr 28, 2005
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Daven, Be patient and look around I found these two T/C rifles for $150 (the two in the middle) and they are in exellent shape. Seems everybody wants inlines so the price of these fine guns is coming down
Wow! What a wealth of information. You guys are great, and I'm impressed with the civility of the posters. I've been to other gun web sites where disagreements turned into name-calling pretty quick. Seems like there's strong opinions here, but everyone stays respectful. It's nice to see.
Thanks everyone for the advice. I'll keep my eyes open for that T/C percussion, preferably in .50. But if a really good deal on a Cabela's comes by...well, we'll see.
Thanks again everyone.
Thanks everyone for the advice. I'll keep my eyes open for that T/C percussion, preferably in .50. But if a really good deal on a Cabela's comes by...well, we'll see.
Thanks again everyone.
Daven: If you decide to by a used TC (or investarms), before you go shopping, buy yourself a .45 and a .50 brass cleaning jag. If you buy them with #10-32 threads, they will fit the TC ramrod. These will turn out to be cheap insurance (a few bucks apiece). Also, get some cleaning patches for a .45 caliber gun. Put a few drops of oil on a few of them and put them into a plastic bag so you can take them with you.
When you find a likely gun, put the correct jag on the ram rod (or take a cleaning rod with you) and place the patch on the muzzle.
Slowly shove the patched jag down the barrel.
It should be moderatly hard to push all the way to the bottom.
If, somewhere along its journey to the bottom of the barrel it suddenly becomes easy to push, beware! If its resistance returns to about the same as it was further up the barrel, retract the ramrod and patched jag, hand the rifle back to the seller and say in a loud clear voice NO THANKS!
Someone has fired the gun without seating the ball and "ringed" the barrel.
Although it may not be dangerous to shoot, it will never shoot accuratly and there is no way to fix it without buying and fitting a new barrel.
I don't believe TC will honor their guarentee in this case either because the gun has been mistreated.
If the gun passes the above jag/patch test, when you retreve the patch check it for rust.
If rust is present, get a strong light and use it to look as far down the barrel as possible.
If the rifleing looks smooth and without pits, the rust is probably just on the surface.
If the rifleing looks pitted, it's your choice.
Light pitting won't hurt accuracy. Deep pitting will tear the patches and really screw up the guns accuracy.
Bottom line? I would go with a new Cabelas so there is no chanch of gettin tooken. :hmm:
When you find a likely gun, put the correct jag on the ram rod (or take a cleaning rod with you) and place the patch on the muzzle.
Slowly shove the patched jag down the barrel.
It should be moderatly hard to push all the way to the bottom.
If, somewhere along its journey to the bottom of the barrel it suddenly becomes easy to push, beware! If its resistance returns to about the same as it was further up the barrel, retract the ramrod and patched jag, hand the rifle back to the seller and say in a loud clear voice NO THANKS!
Someone has fired the gun without seating the ball and "ringed" the barrel.
Although it may not be dangerous to shoot, it will never shoot accuratly and there is no way to fix it without buying and fitting a new barrel.
I don't believe TC will honor their guarentee in this case either because the gun has been mistreated.
If the gun passes the above jag/patch test, when you retreve the patch check it for rust.
If rust is present, get a strong light and use it to look as far down the barrel as possible.
If the rifleing looks smooth and without pits, the rust is probably just on the surface.
If the rifleing looks pitted, it's your choice.
Light pitting won't hurt accuracy. Deep pitting will tear the patches and really screw up the guns accuracy.
Bottom line? I would go with a new Cabelas so there is no chanch of gettin tooken. :hmm:
walruskid1
54 Cal.
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play nice or go home. easy rule to live by. :v
Daven said:
We may not always agree, sometimes it gets to cussin and snot-flyin disagreement, but the second time someone takes a mean-spirited or personal shot we send them packin to "them other places".
This is a family show here. :hatsoff:
T/C will usually stand behind their products even if you're not the original owner. That wins them a lot of points in my book. I've owned two that were sold and still have two. Good, reliable firearms.
I have one of each. A Cabelas "Hawkin Hunter" and a T/C Renegade. Both in .54. I had to smooth out the triggers on the Cabelas. They were rough and had some burrs . Now it works just fine. I also replaced the sights front and rear with some from Williams. Made a big difference. Went to a rear peep on both rifles. They ballance differently. To me the Cabelas balances better but it is a couple of inches longer also. Both have the 1-48 twist. I think the T/C is a tad bit heavier. Both are good rifles and both have killed game. I don't know that I could recomend one over the other since both have things I like and dislike. Best bet is to find an example of each, handle them and if you're real lucky be able to shoot them before makeing a decision.
