2 T/C Hawken on lay-a-way

[Bobby James]

A couple of days ago and a few post back I mentioned that my local pawn shop had a T/C Hawken with a broken trigger for sale. They had one in decent shape for $200 and one with a messed up trigger for $175. I mentioned on here that I am going to offer them $325 for both and see if they will let me put it on law-a-way.

I walk into the pawn shop and ask the guy behind the counter to hand me one of those Muzzleloaders, he hands me one and its the one with a broken trigger. I looked it over and complained about a few things like the trigger, a smashed nipple and a barrel that looked like it was just too un-taken care of. I asked what was the best he could do on it for me. He goes and ask his manager and he comes back with a $150 quote. I set it on the counter and told him to leave it there and let me look at the other one also. He hands it to me and I look it over and by now his manage was standing there watching and he goes "If you take both I will give you a good deal" I say ok what can you do? He looks in the computer and comes back and says $327 for both cash and carry. I stand there for a second and say, That's a good deal but I am short on cash. He goes "You can put them on law-a-way". I think for a second and reply that if you will take $325 for both I will put $50 down right now. He jumped on it and I now have two descent looking T/C Hawken in .50 cal on law-a-way at my local pawn shop. The wood on the broken one is beautiful. It has some dark marbling in the wood and is just really pretty.
As I was checking out I said "so its $325 plus tax's"? He replys "no, just $325 cash and carry" I paid my down and waited to make sure my name was on the guns and left.

Next month I will have two new to me Hawken rifles to take apart and learn how to work on this stuff.

I am going to sand the finish off of the wood and refinish it and also remove the blue and re-blue and learn how to work on the action and stuff. On one of them I may even put some tacks and leather wrapping on it to personalize it.

I really want some iron parts in place of the brass so I may learn how to sand cast.

Hope you guys are patient when I get them and start asking a lot of questions.

Can I get a flint lock to fit on one of these rifles with out getting a new barrel?

 

[KyBill]

is the trigger broke or frozen ? I have bought a couple were just froze up every one oils the outside never the innards go figure. I may have parts ? check it out and get Back . a little oil goes a long way KyBill

 

[Bobby James]

The screw is just screwed in too far. The front trigger works but the set trigger does not work. It is turned all the way to where it can not be turned in any more.

When I get it home I will post some pictures and we will all see what is wrong and go from there. Thanks for replying.

 

[necchi]

Ya done good, when your ready check out the Gun Builders section and it's archives for tips-n-tricks about refurb. Common problems are over zealous use of the sand paper around the lock panels.
Here's an outfit that sells all the iron components to replace the original TC brass; http://www.thehawkenshop.com/furnishings.htm

 

[CFCE]

If you're going to strip off the blueing you should brown the barrel. More traditional and looks better IMHO. Brown is how I did my kit T/C years ago.

 

[Leatherbark]

Forging wrought iron would be easier for the home gunsmith than casting it but is difficult at best unless a person was inclined to do it as a hobby. If you would like steel parts I believe the "Hawken Shop" will sell you steel/iron parts ready to install on your T.C Hawken.

Bob

 

[Bobby James]

If you're going to strip off the blueing you should brown the barrel. More traditional and looks better IMHO. Brown is how I did my kit T/C years ago.

How is it done?

 

[DBANNERS]

Birchwood Casey's Plum Brown (Sporting Goods Store) & Navel Jelly - kind of like semi-jelly Pepto Bismol looking stuff (any Hardware Store). Both have decent instructions. That Navel Jelly will get right after the bluing in just a few minuets. The browning process, well, a little longer. Take pride my friend, you will like the outcome. Stand back a little and admire your work as you go, for several reasons - you'll know.

 

[fleener]

Most likely just back that screw out and it will work


Fleener

 

[don hepler]

Another thing you could do is to blacken the brass with either cold blue, or Birchwood Casey, who, makes a brass black. You can steel wood and get an aged look. The reason I suggest this is, the patch box would probably need considerable work to replace it with iron. The rod thimbles and trigger guard could probably be replaced with some off of a Renegade, which would also save a lot of fitting etc. Just my 2 cents.

 

[Zonie]

How is it done?

As was mentioned, Birchwood Casey sells a product called Plum Brown.

It requires heating the totally degreased/deoiled surface to about 280 degrees F and applying it.

It takes several coats to get a uniform looking surface and the fumes given off aren't good for you.

The easier and safer way is to use Laurel Mountain "Barrel Brown & Degreaser".
This is a cold process that uses the humidity in the air to develop the coating of hard brown rust.

If you follow the instructions, it will produce a very durable satin brown color.

Here's a link to Track of the Wolf's page showing it.
http://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/388/1

 

[Bobby James]

So I will actually be making a patina?

 

[necchi]

Not really, a Patina is the wear that shows from use, shadowed along raised edges and/or polished areas that come from rubbing.

Bluing on a barrel is an oxidized layer on the surface. Rust brown is a full finish of it's own,
Rust is oxidation also.
For a rust brown or bluing to show patina, some of the oxidized surface would be rubbed back to bare metal

 

[Rifleman1776]

The easier and safer way is to use Laurel Mountain "Barrel Brown & Degreaser".
This is a cold process that uses the humidity in the air to develop the coating of hard brown rust.

Agree. Easy to use. You can brown right over the blueing, no problem. It does take a few days, mostly just letting it set and do it's thing. But the process is simple and gives a good result.

 

[stinkyfeet]

The easier and safer way is to use Laurel Mountain "Barrel Brown & Degreaser".
This is a cold process that uses the humidity in the air to develop the coating of hard brown rust.

Agree. Easy to use. You can brown right over the blueing, no problem. It does take a few days, mostly just letting it set and do it's thing. But the process is simple and gives a good result.

I agree I only use laurel mountain no need to degrease and very easy to use especially for a rookie

 

[gearheart]

If he jumped on it you still bid too high. :haha:

 

[CFCE]

Don't remember details since I did it more than 30 years ago. It involved heating the barrel and using a browning kit.

 

[Bobby James]

If he jumped on it you still bid too high. :haha:

I know it. I went in to try to talk him down but he did all the talking.

If I would have had cash in hand I would have went for $300 but I can live with my current deal. I have been told that this chain of pawn shops always has their guns priced at $40 above their actual wanted price. Its ok, I have established a relationship with them and in the future he will sell me everything for a good price knowing I am a serious buyer.

Thanks Zonie and to the others on letting me know how to Brown a barrel, I will try it soon and post results after I am done.

 

[Wayne R Scott]

Yes, you could get a flintlock for your T/C, but you would have to replace the breech plug with a flint breech plug. Plus drill for vent.

L&R makes an upgrade flint lock for T/C Hawken.

If you could find a Green Mountain IBS flint barrel for T/C it would be a lot easier. But you will have more money in the lock and barrel than you do in both of the T/C's.

But since it is not my money I say do it.