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20 gauge fowler loads.

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fort fireman

45 Cal.
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I'm in the process of building a 20 gauge fowler from TOTW. Its going pretty well , just time consuming but thats the point,right. What I need to know is when I'm done with it what to load it with. I'm looking for a good all purpose load for small game ,squirrel and rabbit mostly, maybe a turkey. I was thinking of using 60 to 70 grain of 3fg. Thats what I use with my rifle and would make it easy too use the same powder measure no matter what gun i have in my hands. I will admit I'm a little lost on the amount of shot to use. What is the average? Any pointers are much appreciated.
 
60-70 grs of 3f would be a good load under an overpowder wad, 1/2 or whole lubed fiber cushion wad, 1 1/8- 1 1/4 oz of shot and an overshot card wad. Then from there just play around with powder charges, wad column, and shot charge to find what patterns best in your gun. A lot of range time but hey, somebody has to do it so it may as well be you having all the fun. :grin:
 
I am also curious as to what lubes work the best and how they are applied --to the cards, the wads only, somewhere/somehow else?
 
I just rub lube around the outer edge of the fiber cushion wad. If you don't use the cushion wad you can place a small dab of lube between either an over powder wad and then lube and an overshot wad or just use all overshot card wads. That is what i have started doing. Powder, 4 overshot wads, shot, and another overshot wad. That way you only have 1 kind of wad to carry.
 
My load is 1 1/4 shot over in this order 80grains 2f over powder card then a welt wad with wonder lube. Then to hold the shot in a single over the shot card. Now my barrel is jugg choked somewhere between full and mod., so your results might vary. Good luck have fun burn powder.
 
Oldnamvet said:
I am also curious as to what lubes work the best and how they are applied --to the cards, the wads only, somewhere/somehow else?

Mike Brooks got me on to the pre-lubed wads from some prior posts. I had always used a beeswax/olive oil concoction on the cheaper dry wads. The factory pre-lubed works weel and saves a lot of time and trouble and when I am using all pre-stamped cards and wads of the shotgun era it just makes it that much easier.
 
You can try using only OS card(wads), 4 on top of the powder, and two over the shot(start with 3/4 oz. and try 7/8 & 1 oz. shot loads)then use 2 OS cards
on top of shot. Then, Use a greased Cleaning patch on your jag to lube the barrel in front of the load and those OS cards. This lets the Shot slide over the steel bore, rather than scraping or rubbing off lead, which leaves flats on the sides of the shot next to the bore. You don't want the lead deposits, because they are difficult to clean out, and they continue to build, destroying the patterns you get the more shots fired. You don't want the " flats" if you can avoid them, because they cause the affected shot to slow down quickly, and drop out of the pattern, usually within the first 20 yards. With smaller bore shotguns, as much as half the shot can be lost from your pattern this way.

Use an awl, or nail, or large pin, to poke an off-center hole in the OS cards. This lets air in between the cards so that they separate, and fall to the ground quickly. JUst load them in the barrel so that the holes are NOT aligned with each other. The 4 over the powder can go in with the holes at 3, 6, 9,& 12 o'clock, and the 2 over the shot can go at 6 & 12 o'clock. Use two os cards over the shot to insure the load cannot move. This is a common precaution for DB shotguns, and its not an expensive habit to get into when shooting fowlers, either.

The other advantage of using only OS cards comes to guns that may be choked at the muzzle, a the OS cards are only .10" thick, and can be bent in your finger and thumb to fit through the choke sideways, and then easily turned below the choke and run down the barrel flat. Turning the card sideways protects that important edge of the card, which seals the bore from the gases pushing on the load of shot.

If your fowler is cyinder bored, as mine is, you can still easily load the cards down the muzzle by bending them just a bit to start in the muzzle without turning the edge. Again that practice protects that edge on the card.

If you prefer to lube the barrel behind the shot, then take Jim Rackham's suggestion to use a small ball of lube between the 3rd and 4th cards. You will have to make up your lube so it has enough beeswax to allow you to ball it up, and either take the balls to the field in a separate container, or take a towel with you to wipe your hands on when you finish making that ball, but it will lube the barrel to soften the powder residue of each shot. It does not do much for the lead deposits that will be laid down in front of the lubing, nor will it help reduce or rid the shot load of flat sided pellets. But, Like lubing a cushion wad of any kind behind the shot, its traditional. :thumbsup:
 
A fowler is just a shotgun with a longer barrel is it not? And I have learned from personal experience and reading the works of real experts which I am not....that a heavy cushion wad is not needed when loading shot because some of the pressure is vented through the touch hole. On both fowler and shotgun...I load the powder, generally !FG for shot....a wad of wasp next tightly packed....two thin stiff cards....the shot...and another card. I have not used the Skychief loading recipe with my fowler but have with my shotgun. The Skychief method adds an olive oil soaked thick fiber wad on top of the overshot card. I have no idea why this works, but I can tell you that it does in my gun to produce tighter and more evenly dispersed patterns. Always do what you gun likes....not necessarily what you like....sorta like in fishing. Merry Christmas to you and yours!
 

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