I asked Kibler’s about bore diameter of the upcoming 20 ga Fowler and was told they are .620.
Remember that that .020 patch will be per side. So you are effectively running a .635” ball. Remember smoothbores do not have rifling grooves to fill and a tight patched ball has to either displace barrel or ball. This is why Jim Kibler is worried about running ball in his soon to be available fowler.It is just this easy.
Get the true Dia. Of your bore (mine is .615) . Next take your patch thickness ( mine is .020 )
Now take your bore Dia ( again mine is .615) subtract the patch thickness (again mine is .020) and the sum is your BEGINNING ball diameter
So my equation looks like this, .615 - .020 = .595
My smoothie will shoot 3 to 4 inch groups at 50 yds as long as I do my part. I can load n shoot this patched roundball as long as I want to shoot as my lubed patched roundball cleans the majority of the fouling off the bore with each shot. AND is very easy to load down the barrel.
I am certain that my system is not HC but for repeatable shooting with the beginning cleanbore shot still in this 3 to 4 inch group, I confess that the HC (historic correctness) will have to take a back seat.
I have purchased .600 ball's for loading bare ball's both directly on the powder as well as over tow or even a wad and my accuracy is the same ... except after 5 or 6 shots I gotta swab out the fouling to continue shooting while my patched ball lubed with SPG or an equivalent lube ... I have no stoppage with need to clean out the fouling
Just my two cents worth and is just as valuable as what you paid for it.
Would probably be a lot cheaper to just buy telescoping gauges that cover .5-1” Brass be spendy.One could always slug the bore and then make an educated decision on ball size and possible patch thickness. Recently posted the following ‘how to’ on measuring a bore on a different thread. Imagine there will be some agreeing and disagreeing with the method, but it is a starting point.
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Find a piece of lead slightly larger than the bore. Next drop a 12” long or so piece of brass rod slightly smaller than the bore diameter down the bore. Then carefully (use only plastic, leather, or similar), while the brass rod is still in the bore, drive the piece of lead down the bore a few inches. Use gravity to work the brass rod like a slide hammer against the piece of lead, knocking the lead out of the bore. You can then measure the diameter of the lead to determine the bore diameter.
All I know is it works and it delivers.Remember that that .020 patch will be per side. So you are effectively running a .635” ball. Remember smoothbores do not have rifling grooves to fill and a tight patched ball has to either displace barrel or ball. This is why Jim Kibler is worried about running ball in his soon to be available fowler.
Remember that that .020 patch will be per side. So you are effectively running a .635” ball. Remember smoothbores do not have rifling grooves to fill and a tight patched ball has to either displace barrel or ball. This is why Jim Kibler is worried about running ball in his soon to be available fowler.
Your first question it literally written out in the my statement you quoted. Excessively tight ball/patch combos and/or over charges coupled with the excessively tight ball/patch combos with his correctly light barrel wall thicknesses.Can you elaborate on the concern that Kibler might have?
I have a .50 rifle that I shoot .490 ball with .018 pillow ticking. It is tight, but works. I know that mathematically the ball and patch add up to more than the bore diameter but I always figured the patch cloth compresses and/or the ball deforms. In a smoothy without the rifling, I’d expect same but with less resistance.
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