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2004 pietta

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Was looking for some info on a 44 cal pietta with time stamp of BU which is 2004. It has pn and another symbol beside that. Is this a Remington replica ir army?
 

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It is a replica of a Remington New Army revolver.
These guns are often called a "1858" because that date that is sometimes stamped on them. It represents the Patent date of the Beals design.
The New Model Army was the third and final redesign for the gun.

Actually, the Remington New Model Army didn't go into production until 1863.
 
Very good to know. Thank you very much for the info Now I can proceed with trying to find a replacement cylinder. I just got it yesterday at a gun show and they knew nothing about it besides it was made in Italy.. 2 of the percusion nipples were loose and would not tighten up. A friend has the same gun but in blued steel. Well, 2 of his fit in my cylinder and mine fit in his but for some reason my 2 that were in it would not get tight at all. By looking at the 2 in comparison 1 looked to be bigger threads but that doesn't tell how they were able to swap. I'd like to get a replacement cylinder in stainless but every where I've looked their sold out and cannot get. Any ideas on the 2 questions?
 
Cabela's may have them in stock, worth checking, not stainless.

https://www.cabelas.com/shop/en/pietta-1858-remington-black-powder-revolver-spare-cylinder
Before investing in a new cylinder I would check the threads for all 6 nipples in the existing one for damage. I have chased the threads on Remingtons where the first thread was damaged but it's best left to someone who has a lot of experience with taps. Because of the limited space and the angled nipple hole it's difficult to get the tap aligned properly and one can make a bad situation into a disaster fast. Next throw away all of the nipples that came with your gun and buy a quality set from Track of the Wolf or another vendor.
 
Ok but aren't there different sizes? I recently bought some number 11 percusion for my shotgun muzzleloader gobbler series. Only 1 place that I could find caps and they were number 11.
 
Ok works for me. I'd rather use 11's. I tried 11's on mine last night and they were loose. 10's fit it better so maybe somebody had changed them at 1 point? I'll be ordering some from track of the wolf. Thanks again so much. As far as powder my friend shoots 30 grains pyrodex pellets in his so is this not recommended? Ball size I'm not sure of. Maybe a .451 or .454 orphan should it shoot?
 
Factory nipples usually took #10s but one brand of cap may fit better than another's of the same number. I only shoot black powder and have no desire to use subs but I recommend staying away from Pyrodex, specially pellets. 30 grains isn't an overload but you'll find the most accurate charge between 18 to 22 grains of 3f. Measure your chamber mouth and be sure the ball shaves off a slight ring as it's loaded. I would go with .454"
 
Ok sounds good to me. Hadnt loaded it yet but set a ball on top that my friend had and looked like half was sticking above chamber. Thinking it's 454. On another note my gobbler series shotgun calls for 2 f powder. Would this be too hot or not hot enough for the 44?
 
Very good to know. Thank you very much for the info Now I can proceed with trying to find a replacement cylinder. I just got it yesterday at a gun show and they knew nothing about it besides it was made in Italy.. 2 of the percusion nipples were loose and would not tighten up. A friend has the same gun but in blued steel. Well, 2 of his fit in my cylinder and mine fit in his but for some reason my 2 that were in it would not get tight at all. By looking at the 2 in comparison 1 looked to be bigger threads but that doesn't tell how they were able to swap. I'd like to get a replacement cylinder in stainless but every where I've looked their sold out and cannot get. Any ideas on the 2 questions?
I just received 2 spare blued Pietta cylinders from Cabela's.
That model you have is the target model. I have a pair. They'll put holes inside 2 inches at 25 yards all day.
.454 ball is correct size. Should get .020 - ..030 lead ring when rammed. Over lube projectile. Don't have fill remaining bore just get it around circumference of ball. I use a mix of wax and veggie oil cooked together to a thick sticky congealed consistency. Typically around 65-70% oil to wax. 18-22 gns charge is correct. I use 22 for ball and 18 for conical.
 
2f but 3f would be better, either one will get the job done. might want to also consider a over the powder wad and use a good lube specifically made for black powder.
I have
I just received 2 spare blued Pietta cylinders from Cabela's.
That model you have is the target model. I have a pair. They'll put holes inside 2 inches at 25 yards all day.
.454 ball is correct size. Should get .020 - ..030 lead ring when rammed. Over lube projectile. Don't have fill remaining bore just get it around circumference of ball. I use a mix of wax and veggie oil cooked together to a thick sticky congealed consistency. Typically around 65-70% oil to wax. 18-22 gns charge is correct. I use 22 for ball and 18 for conical.
So just lube the ball and not the whole cyli der hole?
 
Anybody know anything about the 1999 cva gobbler series 12 gauge? Powder grains, shot size. Also had someone tell me a week ago they use a plastic reloading wad to put shot in once its in there. Will this work or no?
 
Taxidermy, the manner I load if loading with cylinder in gun first charge the cylinder cavity with black powder, next place a proper sized wad over charge(I use a disc cut from a piece of thin cardboard) (a playing card thickness) (they also make felt wads pre lubed I believe ox yoke sells them) next pace ball on the charged cylinder hole using the seater, press the ball into the cylinder ( there should be a small ring of lead that shaves off as you do this) be sure the ball is seated firmly on the charge and does not protrude past the mouth of the cylinder, do this to all the cylinders I then use the lube on top of each ball that is loaded in the cylinder, place gun on half cock point in a safe direction and cap the nipples, some will leave a empty chamber on which to leave the hammer rest as a safer means to carry the gun. (making it a 5 shot) Pretty much the same process if using a loading stand with the cylinder removed from the gun if doing this place the cylinder back in the gun before placing the caps on the nipples.
 
Taxidermy, the manner I load if loading with cylinder in gun first charge the cylinder cavity with black powder, next place a proper sized wad over charge(I use a disc cut from a piece of thin cardboard) (a playing card thickness) (they also make felt wads pre lubed I believe ox yoke sells them) next pace ball on the charged cylinder hole using the seater, press the ball into the cylinder ( there should be a small ring of lead that shaves off as you do this) be sure the ball is seated firmly on the charge and does not protrude past the mouth of the cylinder, do this to all the cylinders I then use the lube on top of each ball that is loaded in the cylinder, place gun on half cock point in a safe direction and cap the nipples, some will leave a empty chamber on which to leave the hammer rest as a safer means to carry the gun. (making it a 5 shot) Pretty much the same process if using a loading stand with the cylinder removed from the gun if doing this place the cylinder back in the gun before placing the caps on the nipples.
Thank you for the Info. I ha e some wads I ordered for the shotgun I could use after I trim them down. Cant wait to try it out
 
I have

So just lube the ball and not the whole cyli der hole?

I just push enough in the cylinder bore to make sure the lube gets around the ball against bore wall. The wax/veggie oil I use is mainly for gas seal but does provide a bit of barrel lube. I like it because it's cheap to make plus it leaves a soft sooty fouling that doesn't affect accuracy and very easy to clean.
I've never in my 50 years of shooting used over powder wads. Up to you.
Use 3f powder. IMO burns cleaner and pretty much recommended.
Some use a filler on top of powder so ball seats right at top of cylinder bore. I tried it and found it really didn't make any difference. My experience.
Shoot a charge that provides desired accuracy.
More doesn't equal better. Accuracy and placement does.
Don't pinch #11 caps to fit a #10 nipple. Hot gases can get in and although many theories IMO ill fitting caps can cause chain fire.
If #11 is what you use get #11 nipples.
 

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