20G fowler - loads and tips?

[GoodRabbitPilgrim]

Apologies I'm sure it's been covered but I find the search function hard to find things at times so I thought I'd start a thread that was very black and white in the hopes that others searching will find it easier.

What are some loads and processes for best accuracy/grouping with a fowler?

More specifically, do I run equal volume of shot to powder, more of one and how do people measure shot if different? Do they run equally well with all shot say no.10 to SSG/buckshot or is one end easier better than the other?

What's generally the best way to load for shot? Powder, thick wool wad (lubed or dry, overborne or bore size), shot, then what over top of the shot?

For ball is a bore size bullet the best go to or should it be patched? If so tight or loose?

For 20G 2F or 3F?

I know it'll vary based on the gun and require experimentation but a starting point would be great.

 

[Grenadier1758]

Unfortunately @GoodRabbitPilgrim, the black and white answers to your questions are few and far between.

Equal volumes of powder and shot have been promoted as a good load for a very long time. More shot than powder have proven very effective and probably the better choice. We seem to see good results with 2 measures or using the powder measure and filling it one and a half times with shot. If you have an adjustable volume measure, you will have to know the two settings to use to get about 10% to 20% more volume of shot than powder. Once you get into the buck shot sizes then the decision for a measure of buck shot.

As to what over shot card to use, that too has several opinions and each opinion has its adherents. The classic load of powder, over powder card, fiber wad, shot and over shot card is a reasonable load and has worked for many. So has the practice of powder, 4 over shot cards, shot and an over shot card has been effective. Look for the @Skychief load for another loading that has proven effective for the fowling shot loads. For shot, I like a charge of 65 grains of 2fg to 75 grains of 2fg. I use the 4 over shot cards with 80 to 95 grains volume of bird shot held in the bore by an over shot card.

As far as powder granulation, that is something that you will have to determine during load development. Use 10% less 3f than 2f for the desired volume of shot.

When shooting ball, I use a ball about 0.010 to 0.020 under the bore diameter. I shoot a 0.600" ball in my 20 gauge (0.615" diameter) with an 0.018" lubricated patch. For most purposes, loose is better than tight in a smoothbore. Now whether the ball is patched, wrapped in tow or near bore sized on a wad and held in place by an over shot card depends on what you find works best for you.

 

[GoodRabbitPilgrim]

Unfortunately @GoodRabbitPilgrim, the black and white answers to your questions are few and far between.

Equal volumes of powder and shot have been promoted as a good load for a very long time. More shot than powder have proven very effective and probably the better choice. We seem to see good results with 2 measures or using the powder measure and filling it one and a half times with shot. If you have an adjustable volume measure, you will have to know the two settings to use to get about 10% to 20% more volume of shot than powder. Once you get into the buck shot sizes then the decision for a measure of buck shot.

As to what over shot card to use, that too has several opinions and each opinion has its adherents. The classic load of powder, over powder card, fiber wad, shot and over shot card is a reasonable load and has worked for many. So has the practice of powder, 4 over shot cards, shot and an over shot card has been effective. Look for the @Skychief load for another loading that has proven effective for the fowling shot loads. For shot, I like a charge of 65 grains of 2fg to 75 grains of 2fg. I use the 4 over shot cards with 80 to 95 grains volume of bird shot held in the bore by an over shot card.

As far as powder granulation, that is something that you will have to determine during load development. Use 10% less 3f than 2f for the desired volume of shot.

When shooting ball, I use a ball about 0.010 to 0.020 under the bore diameter. I shoot a 0.600" ball in my 20 gauge (0.615" diameter) with an 0.018" lubricated patch. For most purposes, loose is better than tight in a smoothbore. Now whether the ball is patched, wrapped in tow or near bore sized on a wad and held in place by an over shot card depends on what you find works best for you.

That is all helpful because I just bought one and now need to figure out how to use it!

 

[ohio ramrod]

I use FF in my shotguns and save the FFF for the rifles and pistol. I also use a slightly larger(by volume) shot than powder charge. I use leather over powder wads, and use a paper shot cartridge for the shot.I make the cartridges out of three thickness of news paper rolled around a dowel rod, tied with kite string,filled with shot, then twisted, folded over and tied shut with kite string. I load the shot cartridge folded end out and use the folded end as an over shot card.

 

[Brokennock]

Sorry, as with all things muzzleloading, no black and white answers here. Experimentation and tweaking is always needed.... and when it comes to smoothbores, a little magic and witchcraft helps too, lol.

Shot loads for me fall into two purpose driven categories.
1. Small game (squirrels) and birds (pheasant usually)
2. Turkeys
For group 1 I usually load a bit over 60 grains powder and 80 grains (1 1/8 oz.) of shot. Generally I stick with number 5 shot for squirrel and pheasant. For other small game like rabbit or smaller birds I keep the same load but change shot size.
The load order would look like;
Just over 60 grains powder, 2 thin "overshot" cards, lubed felt wad (can't remember how thick), 1 1/8 oz. #5 shot in one of my shot cup/cartridges detailed elsewhere, topped off and held in with an overshot card or two.

For turkey I go up to 75 grains powder and 1 1/4 oz. #5 shot. And, I change to the Skychief load method.

 

[Sparkitoff]

I tend to use a balanced load of shot/ powder in the 20b. I change the pattern by changing cards and wads.

 

[GoodRabbitPilgrim]

I tend to use a balanced load of shot/ powder in the 20b. I change the pattern by changing cards and wads.

What combination generally tightens your pattern?

The first thing I'll hunt for over summer is foxes and hares.

 

[GoodRabbitPilgrim]

Sorry, as with all things muzzleloading, no black and white answers here. Experimentation and tweaking is always needed.... and when it comes to smoothbores, a little magic and witchcraft helps too, lol.

Shot loads for me fall into two purpose driven categories.
1. Small game (squirrels) and birds (pheasant usually)
2. Turkeys
For group 1 I usually load a bit over 60 grains powder and 80 grains (1 1/8 oz.) of shot. Generally I stick with number 5 shot for squirrel and pheasant. For other small game like rabbit or smaller birds I keep the same load but change shot size.
The load order would look like;
Just over 60 grains powder, 2 thin "overshot" cards, lubed felt wad (can't remember how thick), 1 1/8 oz. #5 shot in one of my shot cup/cartridges detailed elsewhere, topped off and held in with an overshot card or two.

For turkey I go up to 75 grains powder and 1 1/4 oz. #5 shot. And, I change to the Skychief load method.

My preferred shot size for smokeless shotguns is 5 or 6, can't shoot ducks with lead anymore so use 3 or 4 in steel. I'll get some 8s or 10s for rabbits and quail.

I'll try those volumetric measurements and wad combinations and see how it goes.

 

[Sparkitoff]

You have to experiment some with your own gun. The Skychief load works more often than not to tighten patterns. Hardened shot makes a difference in my gun. A taller wad column with a little more shot send to work too.

 

[GoodRabbitPilgrim]

You have to experiment some with your own gun. The Skychief load works more often than not to tighten patterns. Hardened shot makes a difference in my gun. A taller wad column with a little more shot send to work too.

We don't have nitro cards here, would a card then wad, the shot then wad potentially work? I get that it's practice just hoping for some general direction.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

We don't have nitro cards here, would a card then wad, the shot then wad potentially work? I get that it's practice just hoping for some general direction.

Yes, a lot of the folks have reported "good" results with a lubed wad over the shot.

I have had good results with a wad, then loading the shot contained in a tube of newsprint, whole. I don't open it and pour in the shot, I simply make the tube of newsprint the right size to fit down my muzzle while holding the shot. It ruptures upon firing so it's not a "shot cup" by any means.
I started using "shot cartridges" to speed up my reloading of caplock shotguns as I was hunting with fellows with modern guns and they were impatient. Works fine with flinters too.

Seems to work with 1¼ ounce of #6 and 70 grains of 3Fg.
(And yes for those who are wondering that's an India origin trade gun with a painted stock done with oil based paint )

LD

 

[Ed Pilkington]

I’m in love with my .50 cal CVA percussion to flintlock conversion that I subsequently drilled out to .625 smoothbore. When I cut off the plastic wad cup from standard shot wads, load 60 grains of 3f, then load the plastic wad cup followed by 1oz #6 shot and then 1 over/shot card, I devastate A 35 yard pattern paper with 85-90% in the circle, no gaps. Getting ready to try Alliant and Triple7 next. By the way, I do grind my 3f in a mortar and pestle and it works great in the pan. Coming soon, a Kibler 28 gauge colonial kit. Esperance!

 

[Brokennock]

I’m in love with my .50 cal CVA percussion to flintlock conversion that I subsequently drilled out to .625 smoothbore. When I cut off the plastic wad cup from standard shot wads, load 60 grains of 3f, then load the plastic wad cup followed by 1oz #6 shot and then 1 over/shot card, I devastate A 35 yard pattern paper with 85-90% in the circle, no gaps. Getting ready to try Alliant and Triple7 next. By the way, I do grind my 3f in a mortar and pestle and it works great in the pan. Coming soon, a Kibler 28 gauge colonial kit. Esperance!

Why do you waste time and energy grinding your 3f, removing the moisture resistant advantage of the glazing process? 3f works just fine in the pan as it is.

 

[Brokennock]

We don't have nitro cards here, would a card then wad, the shot then wad potentially work? I get that it's practice just hoping for some general direction.

I almost never use nitro cards. And in fact, never used them or the thick fiber cushion wads at all until I started working with the Skychief load. I usually just use a couple thin cards between powder and lubed felt wad. I know several people who use a stack of them to the equivalent thickness of a nitro card.
Just punch your own wads. Thin "overshot" cards can be made from cereal boxes or cigarette cartons. Try thicker cardboard in place of nitro cards.
Try some of scrap leather.

 

[Ed Pilkington]

Why do you waste time and energy grinding your 3f, removing the moisture resistant advantage of the glazing process? 3f works just fine in the pan as it is.

Thanks Brockennock. I didn’t know of the effect. Ignorance is bliss. Will try straight 3f.