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28 gauge Turkey loads

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I wouldn't worry too much about velocity. In the very short range you are talking about, the shot has barely slowed down. Even if it starts at a measly 700 fps, it is still going 571 fps at 15 yards (and is likely lethal farther than that). Compare that to if you start the same shot at 1100 fps, it is going 571 fps at 44 yards. I doubt you are going to be below 700 fps, so no worries.
 
The number one reason that hunters fail at killing game, is not the guns fault, nor the load in the guns fault. The failure rests solely on the shoulders of the hunter himself/herself, and nowhere else.

Practice with any weapon is mandatory, regardless of the type of ignition system. When people comment negatively online about a bore's/gauge's capabilities, they make the automatic ASSUMPTION that all newcomers to black powder hunting have NO SENSE OF ETHICS.

Because, at the end of the day, it is a hunters willingness NOT TO TAKE A SHOT outside of the capabilities of his weapon, and its load, that determines whether, or not, he/she has a sense of ethics. And, is, or is not, a responsible hunter.

As a testament to the hundreds/thousands of remaining bored out to smooth original longrifles with small bores; and the remaining original fowlers in 32, 28, & 24 gauge; our ancestors did not all hunt with big bore shotguns. Most simply could not afford to.

I maintain that small bore smoothies are far more capable than most Americans are willing to admit. The average modern, 2021, black powder shooter is simply NOT GOING to expend the time, money, & resources to truly find out just how capable one of these small bore smoothies can be.

If GOD allows, then I intend to find out for myself. I figure it will take AT LEAST a year, 70 pounds of powder, 100 pounds of lead in ball/shot form, & God only knows how much patching and wadding to figure out the various loads that I am going to want to shoot.

Bruce
 
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The number one reason that hunters fail at killing game, is not the guns fault, nor the load in the guns fault. The failure rests solely on the shoulders of the hunter himself/herself, and nowhere else.

Practice with any weapon is mandatory, regardless of the type of ignition system. When people comment negatively online about a bore's/gauge's capabilities, they make the automatic ASSUMPTION that all newcomers to black powder hunting have NO SENSE OF ETHICS.

Because, at the end of the day, it is a hunters willingness NOT TO TAKE A SHOT outside of the capabilities of his weapon, and its load, that determines whether, or not, he/she has a sense of ethics. And, is, or is not, a responsible hunter.

As a testament to the hundreds/thousands of remaining bored out to smooth original longrifles with small bores; and the remaining original fowlers in 32, 28, & 24 gauge; our ancestors did not all hunt with big bore shotguns. Most simply could not afford to.

I maintain that small bore smoothies are far more capable than most Americans are willing to admit. The average modern, 2021, black powder shooter is simply NOT GOING to expend the time, money, & resources to truly find out just how capable one of these small bore smoothies can be.

If GOD allows, then I intend to find out for myself. I figure it will take AT LEAST a year, 70 pounds of powder, 100 pounds of lead in ball/shot form, & God only knows how much patching and wadding to figure out the various loads that I am going to want to shoot.

Bruce

Thankfully we today can shoot just about as much as we please. Still I have to ask this question. If the idea is to save time and money, why would you spend many pounds of lead and powder on a small bore to get it to shoot well, when you could buy a large bore and have it shoot the way you want right out of the gate? A 10 gauge can shoot a 3/4 oz load just fine too you know.
 
First off, I am no legend.
Secondly, I don't shoot turkeys, none around here.
I do however shoot other small game.
Wing shooting is different yes but all I can say is I am convinced that until you actually try a smaller bored smoothbore one will not understand. I am also convinced that the smaller bores with a goodly payload acts like it has passed through a choke. I mean, a choke elongates the shot column somewhat. A smallbore already has a long shot column!
All my testing has been very unscientific! If a casual test shows minute of squirrel or pheasant head and neck then I'm done.
In fact the last time I posted a photograph of a pattern on here shot casually off hand at 30yds with a 12g with mixed shot and fine powder used I just got criticised. But what I know is that I had a very useful load in that gun.
In a backwards way of thinking I think one just misses more with heavier payloads! I mean, more shot is just wasted!

I can honestly recommend any smallbore. If I go out hinting with my 45 I feel at no more a lose than if I venture out with a 12g and usually come home grinning.
 
Thankfully we today can shoot just about as much as we please. Still I have to ask this question. If the idea is to save time and money, why would you spend many pounds of lead and powder on a small bore to get it to shoot well, when you could buy a large bore and have it shoot the way you want right out of the gate? A 10 gauge can shoot a 3/4 oz load just fine too you know.
First, I have progressive osteoarthritis in both shoulders, and the doctor's orders are to avoid heavy recoil at all costs. A 28 gauge smoothbore reduces the likelihood of damage to my joints to a reasonable level, as long as I don't get carried away trying to load it up to magnum levels.

Second, I never stated that I personally was interested in saving time & money vis-a-vis black powder shooting. Since I will be completely new to smoothbore shooting, I am budgeting a full year to accommodate myself to learning a new weapon system. I don't see any other way to learn than by spending massive amounts of time at the range shooting all manner of ball/patches/wads at targets, and shot/wads at the pattern board.

I figure that it will take thousands of targets, over the course of a year to get truly comfortable with a small bore fowler. If I can't repeat a target/pattern AT LEAST 20 times, in succession, over the course of several weeks, then FOR ME, it won't be true. For a load to really, really be true, it has to be capable of being used in any season. Hot. Cold. Or, in Between.

Third, I am 66, will be 67 this week. I DO NOT WANT TO CARRY AROUND A 9-10 pound gun. And, in order for a 10 gauge to be truly all-around useful, it needs to weigh 9-12 pounds so it can be used for long distance waterfowling with a jug choke.
 
I decided to to a test today with a very light load in my gun with a removable choke. This is a load from another thread, and I did not want to diminish his accomplishment by posting this there. The load was 55gr FFg, 7/8 oz #4 lead shot. He did not state what he used for powder or wads. I used Goex red can FFg, two nitro cards over the powder, and a thin card wad over the shot. I used #4 lead shot pulled from a Winchester shotshell, and weighed exactly 7/8 oz of shot. I then fired two patterns from exactly 20 yards, one with a cylinder bore, and one with an extra full turkey choke.

The patterns are pictured below. The circles are actually 10 1/8", which is why I did not count the holes directly on the line. What I got were 31 hits for the cylinder bore, and 51 hits from the extra full choke. I want this to be an example of just how careful you have to be with light loads like this. With the extra full, sure, it will probably kill a turkey most of the time. The problem is that it won't kill one every time. Lets say that at best it will kill 75% of the birds you perfectly center that pattern on. Are you willing to bet those odds? I don't think I even have to explain the cylinder bore pattern. If you kill 2 in a row with that at 20 yards, you should buy a lottery ticket.

Does that mean light loads can't work? Of course not. Use smaller shot. There is no reason at all for using #4 shot in a poof load on turkeys. That same load with #7.5 would work just fine for turkey at 20 yards. Don't learn the hard ways like I did. Pattern your gun, and don't be overly optimistic about your results. Neither of those patterns are even close to being acceptable for hunting at that distance.

20210503-115604.jpg
 
I decided to to a test today with a very light load in my gun with a removable choke. This is a load from another thread, and I did not want to diminish his accomplishment by posting this there. The load was 55gr FFg, 7/8 oz #4 lead shot. He did not state what he used for powder or wads. I used Goex red can FFg, two nitro cards over the powder, and a thin card wad over the shot. I used #4 lead shot pulled from a Winchester shotshell, and weighed exactly 7/8 oz of shot. I then fired two patterns from exactly 20 yards, one with a cylinder bore, and one with an extra full turkey choke.

The patterns are pictured below. The circles are actually 10 1/8", which is why I did not count the holes directly on the line. What I got were 31 hits for the cylinder bore, and 51 hits from the extra full choke. I want this to be an example of just how careful you have to be with light loads like this. With the extra full, sure, it will probably kill a turkey most of the time. The problem is that it won't kill one every time. Lets say that at best it will kill 75% of the birds you perfectly center that pattern on. Are you willing to bet those odds? I don't think I even have to explain the cylinder bore pattern. If you kill 2 in a row with that at 20 yards, you should buy a lottery ticket.

Does that mean light loads can't work? Of course not. Use smaller shot. There is no reason at all for using #4 shot in a poof load on turkeys. That same load with #7.5 would work just fine for turkey at 20 yards. Don't learn the hard ways like I did. Pattern your gun, and don't be overly optimistic about your results. Neither of those patterns are even close to being acceptable for hunting at that distance.

20210503-115604.jpg
Thank you for sharing your experiment. Can you please share what gauge weapon you shot these patterns from?
 
I'm an old dog trying to learn new tricks, like shooting the 20 gauge I built. I've tried 3/4 oz of #6 and 60 grains of FF at 25 yards and could maybe kill an unlucky turkey. 60 grains is a little over a 2 dram load. I'll keep fooling around with it until I get a respectable pattern at whatever distance shoots best. The question I have is will less than a 2 dram load give enough velocity for a kill shot? In other words, which is more important, velocity or pattern? I know it would be nice to have both but that may be hard to come by.
There was an old recipe from an 18th century writing. You should shoot 1/3 more shot than nitrous dust. In my 20 gauge double I load 75 grains of 2f powder and from the same measure set at 100 grains, filled with shot. I have killed two turkeys with this load. Get a good pattern then test the penetration into a tin (not aluminum) soup can. If it goes through one side of the can. It will be powerful enough. The load I suggested will probably go through both sides at 25 yards. I never had any luck with square loads. (same amount of powder as shot set on the measure). They seemed to spread to wide. You need to add a little more shot to fill in the holes in the pattern. I load powder, nitro card, cushion wad lubed with crisco, over shot wad, shot, and then another overshot wad. I use this load for everything even clay pigeons. In my 12 gauge I use 80 grains of 2F and 110 grains of shot. Both of these loads have worked fine for me. Good Luck
 
There was an old recipe from an 18th century writing. You should shoot 1/3 more shot than nitrous dust. In my 20 gauge double I load 75 grains of 2f powder and from the same measure set at 100 grains, filled with shot. I have killed two turkeys with this load. Get a good pattern then test the penetration into a tin (not aluminum) soup can. If it goes through one side of the can. It will be powerful enough. The load I suggested will probably go through both sides at 25 yards. I never had any luck with square loads. (same amount of powder as shot set on the measure). They seemed to spread to wide. You need to add a little more shot to fill in the holes in the pattern. I load powder, nitro card, cushion wad lubed with crisco, over shot wad, shot, and then another overshot wad. I use this load for everything even clay pigeons. In my 12 gauge I use 80 grains of 2F and 110 grains of shot. Both of these loads have worked fine for me. Good Luck
I thought that I had built a square load that was 75 grains 2F and 1 1/4 ounces shot. Turns out my scale measured the powder more accurately than the shot since as the weight got heavier the scale became more inaccurate. I since calibrated my scale and now know that the square load is 75 grains 2F and about 1 ounce shot. It patterned well and I’ll probably will use it for clays, but will need more for turkey I think. I will shoot some turkey targets before I go for turkey with this muzzleloader.
 
There was an old recipe from an 18th century writing. You should shoot 1/3 more shot than nitrous dust. In my 20 gauge double I load 75 grains of 2f powder and from the same measure set at 100 grains, filled with shot. I have killed two turkeys with this load. Get a good pattern then test the penetration into a tin (not aluminum) soup can. If it goes through one side of the can. It will be powerful enough. The load I suggested will probably go through both sides at 25 yards. I never had any luck with square loads. (same amount of powder as shot set on the measure). They seemed to spread to wide. You need to add a little more shot to fill in the holes in the pattern. I load powder, nitro card, cushion wad lubed with crisco, over shot wad, shot, and then another overshot wad. I use this load for everything even clay pigeons. In my 12 gauge I use 80 grains of 2F and 110 grains of shot. Both of these loads have worked fine for me. Good Luck
That must of been 4f then 😊
 
Distance would have to be real close to cap a turkey using a light load of no 6 shot. Very tight load to get enough shot for a head shot. They really should make muzzleloader ball legal like it was in the beginning.
 
Distance would have to be real close to cap a turkey using a light load of no 6 shot. Very tight load to get enough shot for a head shot. They really should make muzzleloader ball legal like it was in the beginning.
Yes and that is why real hunters use them, because they can get so close.
( says a man whome just bought a 10g 🤦‍♂️).

😆
 
In New Hampshire only 10 through 20 gauges may be used. #2 shot or smaller so a 28GA is not legal no matter shot weight.

I believe you may be mistaken. I just read through the NH regulations, and find no restrictions at all on what shotgun you can use. All I can find is that a bow must have a 30 pound draw. In the prohibited section, it states "It is unlawful to take a turkey with a rifle, air rifle, dogs, electronic calling devices, live decoys, or while it is perched in a tree."

I then dug into the NH general regulations, and found nothing there. I did find the following quote in the restricted section that has to be the single most bizarre statement I have ever read in a hunting regulations book. :dunno:

"Negligently shoot, wound, or kill a human being while hunting, or abandon a wounded or killed human being"

That has to be written???o_O

Anyway, in NH it appears you can use any smooth bore gun, with any size shot, and presumably you could shoot a single ball. I'm not seeing anything that says you can't hunt them with handguns either.
 
I've broken a law every single time I have ever hunted or fished. It is an unfortunate truth, and every outdoorsman is guilty of it. Every once in a while I come across someone who swears up and down they never break the law. It usually only takes me a couple of tries before I inform them of a law they have been breaking for decades.

Ever take leeches home after fishing in Minnesota? Of course you have (if you ever fished MN), and it is completely against the law.
 
I believe you may be mistaken. I just read through the NH regulations, and find no restrictions at all on what shotgun you can use. All I can find is that a bow must have a 30 pound draw. In the prohibited section, it states "It is unlawful to take a turkey with a rifle, air rifle, dogs, electronic calling devices, live decoys, or while it is perched in a tree."

I then dug into the NH general regulations, and found nothing there. I did find the following quote in the restricted section that has to be the single most bizarre statement I have ever read in a hunting regulations book. :dunno:

"Negligently shoot, wound, or kill a human being while hunting, or abandon a wounded or killed human being"

That has to be written???o_O

Anyway, in NH it appears you can use any smooth bore gun, with any size shot, and presumably you could shoot a single ball. I'm not seeing anything that says you can't hunt them with handguns either.
PROPOSED 2021-22 TURKEY HUNTING REGULATIONS CHANGES • Allow for the use of .410 and 28 gauge shotguns as a legal method of take • .410 and 28 gauge guns must use shot sizes 7 through 9 with a minimum shot density of 18 grams per cubic centimeter (G/CC). • Change allowable shot sizes from #2 and smaller to #4 and smaller for all other gauges (recommendation from NWTF Safety Task Force). Long-Term (1922-2003) NH Deer Harvest WMU - A (state.nh.us)

Unless this did pass the regs have been as I stated Note the shot sizes We have not seen the new book out this year so you better check or the WILL cite you. This will be the FIRST year under 20 will be allowed.

I posted this as a heads up as I don't see why you cannot kill one with either. Personally a rifle should be allowed.
 
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