28 gauge wads in .54 smoothie?

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JJohnson2023

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Any thoughts on using 28 gauge plastic wads in a .54 smoothie? I know the gas seal is between .55 and .56 cal, too big to fit? What do you guys think. The point would be tightening shot groups.
 
overpowder wad, plastic shot cup piston removed, jusciy 1/2" olive oil soaked. use in my .410,28,20 n 12ga. they keep very good pattern.squirrels dont like .410 or 28 n good for 40yds. .410 was made from old stevens bolt. receiver removed n squared,drilled n taped 5/8-18, used underhammer receiver, drilled n taped 1/4-28 for nipple. 40gr 3f ,tea spoon cornmeal to fill chamber area. .410 shot cup, 1oz. #6 n oily 1/2" cushion wad. tight pattern 40yds, could use on turkey, sure knocks tree rats. have fun
 
overpowder wad, plastic shot cup piston removed, jusciy 1/2" olive oil soaked. use in my .410,28,20 n 12ga. they keep very good pattern.squirrels dont like .410 or 28 n good for 40yds. .410 was made from old stevens bolt. receiver removed n squared,drilled n taped 5/8-18, used underhammer receiver, drilled n taped 1/4-28 for nipple. 40gr 3f ,tea spoon cornmeal to fill chamber area. .410 shot cup, 1oz. #6 n oily 1/2" cushion wad. tight pattern 40yds, could use on turkey, sure knocks tree rats. have fun
So is that a yes on the 28 gauge in a .54
 
Try lower powder volumes. Powder burns real fast, so 120 grains can blow up inside a 20” barrel.
Longer barrels get better use as the shot column is exposed to the high pressure for a longer time.
Now for shot that creates a problem of blowing the column apart as soon as it exits the barrel, that high pressure gas can’t accelerate the shot, but can still blow through it, even blowing the wad through the center creating doughnuts.
By decreasing below the volume to volume raitio the shot stay together better.
A paper tube will hold your shot also for a few critical feet.
We have been taught by modern guns to think velocity, but that’s not needed in ml ranges. Stay in twenty five yards, even closer is better. Try fifty grains in a sort barrel. And even an ounce in a quarter to half of shot
 
Try lower powder volumes. Powder burns real fast, so 120 grains can blow up inside a 20” barrel.
Longer barrels get better use as the shot column is exposed to the high pressure for a longer time.
Now for shot that creates a problem of blowing the column apart as soon as it exits the barrel, that high pressure gas can’t accelerate the shot, but can still blow through it, even blowing the wad through the center creating doughnuts.
By decreasing below the volume to volume raitio the shot stay together better.
A paper tube will hold your shot also for a few critical feet.
We have been taught by modern guns to think velocity, but that’s not needed in ml ranges. Stay in twenty five yards, even closer is better. Try fifty grains in a sort barrel. And even an ounce in a quarter to half of shot
My current preferred load is 60 gr of 3f 777, and 80 gr of shot. That gives pretty good patterns especially with a lubed wad over shot, but I still wanted to experiment with the wads to extend range. I have used a .54 sabot as a shotcup to good results but it only holds about 35 grains of shot.
 
I don't want plastic in my gun. I wrap my shot in butcher paper, and seat it over a lubed fiber wad. Before I ram the shot, I put the shot partially in the bore and tear off the top tie. Ram it home with an over shot card.

More layers of butcher paper keeps the group tight. Newspaper and light powder charges work for upland shooting.
 

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I don't want plastic in my gun. I wrap my shot in butcher paper, and seat it over a lubed fiber wad. Before I ram the shot, I put the shot partially in the bore and tear off the top tie. Ram it home with an over shot card.

More layers of butcher paper keeps the group tight. Newspaper and light powder charges work for upland shooting.
That could be a good way to do it, looks like a good system. How do you make sure it keeps in shape and shot doesn't roll out, shape it with a dowel?
 
My issue is my smokepole has a very short barrel(14 in) so I try to get as good patterns as possible from that short, cylinder barrel. Sky chiefing helps.
Yeah, so you are using a pistol?!😀
Your problem is likely too much powder and it is blowing through the shot, just my opinion
 
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My issue is my smokepole has a very short barrel(14 in) so I try to get as good patterns as possible from that short, cylinder barrel. Sky chiefing helps.
What does work is simple for tight patterns .1st powder /then same amount of (cream of wheat) and then shot directly onto cream of wheat/finally a card (in my case) a Dura Felt wad keeping the shot from moving . This gives me the tightest patterns I've ever had in the modified and the full choke barrel is a turkey slayer @ 40 yds tested in my Pedersoli 12 ga . Started with corn meal and then heard cream of wheat actually meters like black powder , and it sure does ! This combo puts my beech loading shotguns (lots) crowding each other for space in the safe and the Pedersoli muzzle loader has permission from the boss (wife) a place all it's own at the kitchen table .
 
Yeah, so you are using a pistol?!😀
Your problem is likely too much powder and it is blowing through the shot, just my opinion
See the thing is my patterns are good, I'm happy with them and the loads I developed. However, I always seek to improve, so I thought I might experiment.
 
What does work is simple for tight patterns .1st powder /then same amount of (cream of wheat) and then shot directly onto cream of wheat/finally a card (in my case) a Dura Felt wad keeping the shot from moving . This gives me the tightest patterns I've ever had in the modified and the full choke barrel is a turkey slayer @ 40 yds tested in my Pedersoli 12 ga . Started with corn meal and then heard cream of wheat actually meters like black powder , and it sure does ! This combo puts my beech loading shotguns (lots) crowding each other for space in the safe and the Pedersoli muzzle loader has permission from the boss (wife) a place all it's own at the kitchen table .
I've heard of the cream of wheat thing before. How does it help? provides a buffer that turns to dust when it leaves the barrel instead of crashing into the back of the column?
 
@JJohnson2023 : Experimentation is fun with these blackpowder guns and especially a smooth bore.

I encourage you to try the plastic wad and different over powder and over shot cards/wads. Keep good notes on each load and only change one variable at the time. I have had great success with a plastic wad in a .62 smoothbore. I use a lightly lubed (on the rim of the card) 1/8" nitro card over powder. In advance, I have prepared the plastic wad by measuring the shot charge I choose to use and pour shot into the plastic wad and cut it to length trimming off any excess wad above the shot column.

My load sequence is: powder charge, Edge lubed nitro card (olive oil or Mr. Flintlock lube, or your lube of choice), Insert the edge lubed nitro card into the muzzle a couple of inches, insert the plastic wad to sit on the wad, Pour measured shot charge into the muzzle to go into the plastic wad, Place over shot card in the muzzle to sit on top of the shot, carefully push the entire load down to sit on the powder.

I have worked up good loads using traditional materials, paper shot cups, etc. and I still used them as needed or preferred. This load using a plastic wad works for me keeping tight groups and gives me another option in my smoothbore arsenal. Also, For Turkeys, I have good results in my smoothbore with the modern TSS shot in the plastic wad designed to use with TSS. All my loads using plastic wads are used with a edged lubed nitro card under the wad.

By using a lubed nitro card/wad under the plastic wad, I do not have any plastic build-up in my barrel. Other's experiences may differ.

Have fun working up a load for your .54 smoothbore!

Enjoy the ride!
DanL

P.S. WHY? Because I can.
 
@JJohnson2023 : Experimentation is fun with these blackpowder guns and especially a smooth bore.

I encourage you to try the plastic wad and different over powder and over shot cards/wads. Keep good notes on each load and only change one variable at the time. I have had great success with a plastic wad in a .62 smoothbore. I use a lightly lubed (on the rim of the card) 1/8" nitro card over powder. In advance, I have prepared the plastic wad by measuring the shot charge I choose to use and pour shot into the plastic wad and cut it to length trimming off any excess wad above the shot column.

My load sequence is: powder charge, Edge lubed nitro card (olive oil or Mr. Flintlock lube, or your lube of choice), Insert the edge lubed nitro card into the muzzle a couple of inches, insert the plastic wad to sit on the wad, Pour measured shot charge into the muzzle to go into the plastic wad, Place over shot card in the muzzle to sit on top of the shot, carefully push the entire load down to sit on the powder.

I have worked up good loads using traditional materials, paper shot cups, etc. and I still used them as needed or preferred. This load using a plastic wad works for me keeping tight groups and gives me another option in my smoothbore arsenal. Also, For Turkeys, I have good results in my smoothbore with the modern TSS shot in the plastic wad designed to use with TSS. All my loads using plastic wads are used with a edged lubed nitro card under the wad.

By using a lubed nitro card/wad under the plastic wad, I do not have any plastic build-up in my barrel. Other's experiences may differ.

Have fun working up a load for your .54 smoothbore!

Enjoy the ride!
DanL

P.S. WHY? Because I can.
Thanks for the great information man, I really appreciate it.
 
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