2F Priming Powder

[bscott]

I was told the other day by an old timer to use 2f to prime my T/C Renegade because you get all flame thru the touchhole and the powder doesn't go inside like 4f does.What do you all think?

 

[jtmattison]

You can certainly prime with 2F. However, ignition won't be as fast as 4F.
4F shouldn't get into the flash channel on it's own. When I prime I close the frizzen and then tip my rifle to the outside and give it a tap to settle the prime to the outside of the pan.

HD

 

[Tom Compton]

Ain't about time goin thru the touch hole, it's time from spark to flash to touch hole. 4F burns lots faster than 2F. Some competition types use 7F. If 2F was just as good, they'd use it.

Or, you could dig up some Fg. Flash thru the hole is the same.

TC

 

[roundball]

I was told the other day by an old timer to use 2f to prime my T/C Renegade because you get all flame thru the touchhole and the powder doesn't go inside like 4f does.What do you all think?

That would be the LAST thing I'd ever do...4F priming powder is made for a reason...because 4F is faster than 3F is faster than 2F is faster than 1F, etc.

 

[nchawkeye]

If your flintlock is made properly, the touch hole is covered by the frizzen when it is shut so no powder gets in...

I've primed with FFFF, FFF and FF...They all work...I can tell a bit of a difference with FFFF
vs FF, but not FFFF vs FFF...

The best thing to do is load a few blanks and try your gun to see what she likes...

That's why we call our guns "her"...They all need a little special attention in certain areas to perform up to our expectations... :grin:

 

[Stumpkiller]

I used to prime (& main charge) with 2Fg in my Bess. But that had a vent I could clean with my pinky (7/64"). I use 3Fg in my .54 (prime & main) that has a Jim Chambers L-5 Early Gemanic - a tad larger than the large Siler. I'd stick with 4F or maybe 3F if you get good ignition.

As mentioned above - my frizzen blocks the vent from the outside and the powder may or may not be working through from the main charge inside.


A good follow-through does wonders in those instances where a pan fuses rather than flashes.

 

[Tinker2]

I prime with 2F. It catches sparks better for me then 4F
Sparks bounce off 4F more then 2F
My ignition time is the same as my percussion guns, at least for me anyway.

For me it is not just the idea that it is easier, cheaper, less fuss to use just one powder. I have 2, 3 and 4F powder on hand, I use 2F in the pans of my .32 caliber guns.

What works for you and what you believe in, is what you should use. Maybe try it, you may like it. Maybe it’s a old timer thing.



Tinker2

 

[gjkershul]

Large grains work well when you have high wind conditons. They don't blow out out of the pan.

 

[Dphar]

I was told the other day by an old timer to use 2f to prime my T/C Renegade because you get all flame thru the touchhole and the powder doesn't go inside like 4f does.What do you all think?

FFG is noticably slower in my rifles.
Note:
Not flame passes through the vent, it would require a lot of pressure, like percussion cap to do this since the barrel is not open at the other end of the vent its sealed.
Ignition of a flintlock is generally by RADIANT heat. I have some vent liners that put the main charge very close to the pan and in this case fire might touch a powder grain. But if the vent is over 1/16" long its usually radiant heat.
FFFFG ignites faster and burns faster, faster heat rise, faster ignition.
That it ignites faster in the pan has been proven with timers and HS photography.

Dan

 

[Tommy Bruce]

As you've seen already, shooters use different size powder for different reasons. I don't think any of the responses you've gotten were wrong. A lot depends on the conditions you are shooting in, what your expectations are ect. A target shooter with time and dry conditions will want a smaller powder which is a bit quicker in ignition. Yet a hunter in damp woods my prefer the larger powder as moisture doesn't affect it as bad or for the simplicity of using one horn. A reenactor shooting blanks will no doubt prime from the same cartridge as did the 18th century soldiers. I like using 3f as a happy medium, especially if I'm using a .45 or .50 cal which loads with the same. I've also primed with 2f in my larger caliber guns as I prefer the simplicity of carrying only one horn. Try 'em all, see what works best for you.

 

[Dphar]

In a CLEAN gun a GOOD powder is not going to get that damp from high humidity. If it did the powder in your horn and in the bore would do the same thing.
Powder made with questionable saltpeter can cause trouble. This was a problem in the past with American made powder but no longer is.
However, I prime exclusively with "old" Goex and have no problems even on pretty damp days, but I keep the gun in a cover when in the snow or rain.

Dan

 

[Coot]

Different conditions require different solutions. Down on the south east coast, "low" humidity in the summer might mean just under 90%. Goex 4f will quickly go mushy in some of our hot sticky weather.

 

[Dphar]

Different conditions require different solutions. Down on the south east coast, "low" humidity in the summer might mean just under 90%. Goex 4f will quickly go mushy in some of our hot sticky weather.

Yes I live in Montana. However.
I grew up on corn farm in Iowa, 90-100% was typical. I shot ML a lot from the time I was about 14. At high humidity fouling sucks up moisture like a sponge and makes black mud.
Take 2-3 clean saucers and put a little, 5-10 grains, of each granulation in a separate saucer and see if they turn to mush exposed to the air but protected from direct contact with water, dew etc. A screen porch or some such is a perfect place.
Even at 100% humidity powder made with pure Potassium Nitrate will take up little water. If it gets wet in this test the powder is CONTAMINATED.
If you want can put some fouling on a saucer and see what it does.
I NEVER in anyway foul a gun that is to be loaded for any length of time. The oil must be washed out with denatured alcohol and the gun then wiped dry before loading. If you foul it and the humidity is high its going to get wet.
I will double check with a friend who has done extensive testing of BP and have him refresh my memory. He lives in the humid east BTW.
Dan

 

[Dphar]

In doing some reading good BP should not absorb enough water from the air to prevent its burning unless it is made with poor quality ingredients.
Above 92% RH the powders moisture content will increase and it may increase enough to reduce velocity, but it will not become waterlogged.
Think of powder stored below the water line of a 18th century warchip...
Even BP fouling will not pickup moisture from the air at humidity levels under 30%.
However, it becomes very wet at RH levels over 60%, wet enough to contaminate powder it is in contact with.

Dan

 

[JackAubrey]

I tend to prime with whatever the main charge consists of.As an example,shooting and priming 3f Goex in my .36 calibre squirrel gun or shooting and priming with 2fGoex in my Bess.It appears as long as the lock is well constructed one does'nt particularly need 4f prime.Best regards,J.A.