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32 cal ramrod

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Electric Miner said:
I can normally get a second decent shot with a stiff ramrod. After that I have to clean. With a Delrin rod, It's one shot only.

:confused: If that is your experience, I am not going to say it is not so. :shocked2:
But, the rod, all other factors being equal, has no bearing on cleanliness of your barrel.
Is the jag identical to what you use with other rods?
Besides, you need to stop shooting Delrin. :wink: :rotf:
 
But, the rod, all other factors being equal, has no bearing on cleanliness of your barrel.

I never said it did. What I said was that with a stiff ramrod, I can seat a ball down the barrel for a second shot before wiping the barrel. The Delrin rod is too flexible to do that with.
 
Electric Miner said:
But, the rod, all other factors being equal, has no bearing on cleanliness of your barrel.

I never said it did. What I said was that with a stiff ramrod, I can seat a ball down the barrel for a second shot before wiping the barrel. The Delrin rod is too flexible to do that with.

Uh.... :idunno: ...Ok....

I'm wondering how the Delrin, or any rod, flexes once inside the barrel. Once in the barrel will seat just as well as anything.
 
Dutch Scholtz(?) is a member that has a lil write up on steps to accurize the black powder rifle. Good tips. Get it and use it. I have and due to time have yet to get the 1st of many done but can tell its good stuff from my first few times out. $20.00. blackpowderrifleaccuracy.com
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I'm wondering how the Delrin, or any rod, flexes once inside the barrel. Once in the barrel will seat just as well as anything.

Regardless of what it does in the barrel, and your ramrod is not the exact same diameter as the inside of the barrel, so there will be some flexing in the barrel, that length of rod outside the barrel does bend as you push on it. The more resistance inside the barrel, the more the rod that is outside the barrel will bend. The more it bends, the less force you are applying to the ball you are trying to force down the barrel.
 
One of mine has it and I do not like it. ONLY advantage is in the field hinting, much more unlikely to break than wood. Just hold it 5-6 inches over barrel and use it as u need to, take a range rod to shoot with (or get a replacement from Ohio Ramrod?)
 
Electric Miner said:
I'm wondering how the Delrin, or any rod, flexes once inside the barrel. Once in the barrel will seat just as well as anything.

Regardless of what it does in the barrel, and your ramrod is not the exact same diameter as the inside of the barrel, so there will be some flexing in the barrel, that length of rod outside the barrel does bend as you push on it. The more resistance inside the barrel, the more the rod that is outside the barrel will bend. The more it bends, the less force you are applying to the ball you are trying to force down the barrel.


If that makes sense to you, I am both happy for you and worry about you.
 
I don't have any experience withDelrin or any of the plastic ramrods, But over the years have heard from countless sources that it is believed that these all develop a charge of static electricity which causes hard particles to adhere to the rod and that these in turn grind away the rifling.
Somehow I doubt that but it is something to think about.
I punctured my right hand several times with split wooden ramrods that were alleged to be hickory. That is why I switched to a steel rod with a brass flare nut acting as a bore protector. and a, don't laugh, metal or ceramic door knob on the end as a handle.
Tis is awkward for a hunting situation but very handy for work at the Rifle Range.

Dutch
 
But over the years have heard from countless sources that it is believed that these all develop a charge of static electricity which causes hard particles to adhere to the rod and that these in turn grind away the rifling.
Somehow I doubt that but it is something to think about.

Pure myth, Dutch. I have used Delrin for decades. I made and sold Delrin rods for a while until the big vendors went into it and underpriced me. Material is soft and rods are unbreakable. The "grind away" notion is fantasy.
 
I have both wood and brass rods for my .32. I used 5/16" brass rod. First I drilled and tapped an 8-32 hole in one end and also knurled it to help with the grip. I turned a jag on the other end and cut a taper like a regular jag. Always there and never have to worry about losing it or breaking the screw. If you have a lathe or access to one, it just takes a few minutes to make it.
 
Trying for a TC 32 ramrod on BG. Thanks for all the advice and suggestions.
Wes
 
I strongly recommend that you avoid a wooden ramrod. The ramrod for a .32 caliber rifle is so small that a wooden ramrod would be easily broken. A broken ramrod and inflict some serious injury to your hand. If I were you, I would find either a brass or aluminum rod and make sure that you have a muzzle guide on it to protect your muzzle from wear. Get a 5/16 solid rod, not one in segments like a modern cleaning rod. Those joints are just too fragile and can easily break. I don't like the fiberglass rods and the synthetic rods that are that small will be too flexible and will be a PIA. If you want a wooden rod to keep in the thimbles for looks, that is fine but I strongly recommend a brass or aluminum rod for a working rod.
 
I strongly recommend that you avoid a wooden ramrod. The ramrod for a .32 caliber rifle is so small that a wooden ramrod would be easily broken. A broken ramrod and inflict some serious injury to your hand.

That is worth repeating.

I strongly recommend that you avoid a wooden ramrod. The ramrod for a .32 caliber rifle is so small that a wooden ramrod would be easily broken. A broken ramrod and inflict some serious injury to your hand.
 
We're you looking for a bench rod. If so, October country sell 1/4 and 5/6 at 36 inches.
 
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