#4 or #6 shot..?

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I've never seen the logic of duplex shot loads. If you are taking head and neck shots, only, and #6 will kill them at your maximum range, why lose the advantage of a higher pellet count? Most of my turkeys were shot at 25 yards, or less, but I've killed several in the 35-40 yard range, all with #6. I do keep the velocity up.

I shoot 1 3/8 oz of shot for turkey, which is 309 pellets of #6 but only 185 of #4.

Spence
 
Thanks for the input Deputy. Still too danged cold here to go outside and "play" but I was checking my little adjustable shot/powder measure ladle and noticed that the lowest setting is 1 ounce. Going to have to come up with something else to measure a 1/2 and 1/2 duplex load with I guess..?
 
Wow, never realized the volume ratio from #6 to #4 was that drastic. Thanks for the info.
 
I've got #5 and #6 shot. For head shots I have never had a need for anything larger than that.

Gobbler_2.JPG
 
I'd go with the #6's as you get more pellets in the pattern. The #6's will kill turkeys out to 40 yards and maybe a little farther. I've shot plenty of them with #7 1/2's and even one with #8's. With a ML and staying within 25 yards 7 1/2's will get it done for you. Pleny of guys shooting modern shotguns think 4's are better but they have not spent the time counting pellets on paper. At any distance a person should be shooting at turkeys the 6 & 7 1/2's will work with a ML.
 
The first yr I went to black powder shotguns for turkeys I used a duplex load of nickle plated 4 and 6's in this Black Mountain Mag T/C 12ga. Killed this gobbler with that load in Greenswamp WMA, Fl.
MuzzleloaderGreenswampGobbler.jpg


Didn't like the plastic stock, etc. so built my first flintlock. 20ga. open bore and killed a few gobblers with it using No. 6's.
flintlockgobblerspurs-1.jpg
but many more stayed just out of range so built a llittle lightweight 20ga using Colerain Turkey Choke barrel and so far only had one shot with it and got this bird using 80grs Goex 3f and 2oz of number 6's.
shawgob41a.jpg
 
Based on all the info, and success photos :thumbsup: , I'll go with the #6 shot.
I measured up some 1 1/2oz pre-loads last night and will see how they work on paper over 60gr of 3F. :hmm:
 
A charge of 60 gr. 3F is what I think of as a heavy standard load for 1 oz. to 1 1/4 oz. in my 20 gauge. When I'm after turkeys and shooting 1 3/8 oz. to 1 1/2 oz. I kick the powder up a bit, to 70-80 grains, to keep the velocity up. Your milage may vary.

Spence
 
I was considering that Spence and will check the load first with the 60gr charge then compare with 70gr and see what happens. :hmm:
Still cold today but tomorrow it warms up for the weekend ... :grin:
 
Spence10 said:
A charge of 60 gr. 3F is what I think of as a heavy standard load for 1 oz. to 1 1/4 oz in my 20 gauge. When I'm after turkeys and shooting 1 3/8 oz. to 1 1/2 oz. I kick the powder up a bit, to 70-80 grains, to keep the velocity up.
Agree...6's already don't have the penetration ability of 5's or 4's as it is...holes in paper can be very misleading.
I use 80grns Goex 3F for large shot charges in my turkey loads then determine at what max yardage a particular size shot pellet and size shot charge of them will still penetrate a strong tin can like a soup can, tuna fish can, etc.
 
When using a can to test for sufficient penetration is one trying to get through both sides or is one side plenty?

I've also read that 2F was the ideal powder to use, though it didn't explain why. As I use 3F in my 2 pistols and my .50 cal rifle I figured I'd stick with 3F for a 28 ga as I prefer to stock/carry just one powder and flask. Why would 2F be better?
 
Since my pellet supply only has sizes 8,71/2,6 and 4 I decided to go with the #6 and get the better pellet density at 25-30 yards which will have to be my max with the un-choked fowler.
I'll be doing the can penetration check as well when I pattern check.
Got to get some equipment loaded on a trailer tomorrow before the ground (mud..) thaws tho. :(
 
rodwha said:
When using a can to test for sufficient penetration is one trying to get through both sides or is one side plenty?
I've also read that 2F was the ideal powder to use, though it didn't explain why. As I use 3F in my 2 pistols and my .50 cal rifle I figured I'd stick with 3F for a 28 ga as I prefer to stock/carry just one powder and flask. Why would 2F be better?
I'm no authority...member DaveK put me onto Tuna Cans for penetration testing years ago, and using them like I have, there is only the bottom facing me...and the one-side test translates into solid kills on small game like squirrels and doves so I always assumed one side was enough. Test examples from my 28ga at 25yds on 3.5" tuna cans.
Only 60grns Goex 3F with #5, #6, #7.5's. A few dents instead of pass-throughs with the smaller lighter #7.5's.

 
Are those loads 60 grns volume of shot? What weight do they equate to?

Have you tried heavier powder charges?
 
If it were me, I'd favor #4 shot. I used to shoot a lot of #6 shot when I was hunting cat squirrels (some places they are known as gray squirrels) but I decided to change to #4 because I would have less shot to pick out of the meat and it would be easier to find. I had a friend who swore by BB shot for cat squirrels for the same reason. He said that his patterns were less dense and that he missed a few shots because of it but when he did get a squirrel, the BB shot was very easy to find and there were so relatively few of them to pick out. Turkeys would be much the same.

Some may ask why we hunted cat squirrels with shotguns rather than rifles. I'll tell you why, because I couldn't hit the little buggers with a rifle. They are small and they never sit still long enough to get a bead on one of them. They are like rats high on uppers. Boy, those little buggers can fly through the treetops. A shotgun was my only hope of bringing any home.
 
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