5/16" anodized or hard aluminum range rods

[coloradoclyde]

So you have a ramrod that is made of aluminum (a soft metal that will easily gall.)To prevent galling it is anodized (anodizing is aluminum oxide). Aluminum oxide is an abrasive used in sandpaper and grinding wheels. So essentially you have a ramrod coated with sand paper. When that black coating wears off ask yourself where did the sandpaper go?

 

[Zonie]

Hey! I'm glad to see you found some additional information about anodizing.

For what it's worth, I didn't have to look for the information on the web.

My comments were based on many years of designing things ranging from special tooling to the Gas Turbine engines used by Boeing and Airbus in all of their large aircraft.

As you often say, hands on experience beats armchair reading. :grin:

 

[roundball]

Hey! I'm glad to see you found some additional information about anodizing.

Yes, scores of descriptions / examples about anodizing all over the web...

 

[coloradoclyde]

I just don’t get it. I cannot begin to fathom why someone would fawn over an aluminum ramrod/cleaning rod. What is wrong with wood, brass or steel? They have been used for hundreds of years. Modern is not synonymous with better. Who among you would want anything aluminum on their guns? (Butt plate, thimbles, trigger guard, sights, etc.). To each their own, I choose to be more traditional. :surrender:

 

[Mad Professor]

I have several ramrods made out of Easton XX75 arrows. The threaded inserts fit cleaning tools, pinned, but never had one start to work loose where the pin came into play.

 

[larryp]

I picked up a 5/16 fiber glass rod that was intended for a drive way marker at Lowe's recently for$1.99 and made me a ram rod for my Seneca rifle, works great and cheap.They are a bright orange color but who cares.

I saw your post in a quote and thought "What the heck? I never said that!!" Then I realized your user name has the "P" separate from the rest of the name. I can see some confusion in the near future as to which of us is talking, lol!

 

[Rifleman1776]

wouldn't want a rotating handle.

Rotating handles are a good idea and work fine. I have made a range rod or two using bicycle wheel hubs. A rotating handle allows the rod and cleaning patch to follow the rifling as the rod is moved up and down. It also makes measuring twist a snap. Of course it must be fastened well.

 

[Rifleman1776]

I have several ramrods made out of Easton XX75 arrows. The threaded inserts fit cleaning tools, pinned, but never had one start to work loose where the pin came into play.

I don't know how flexy or strong arrows are. If they don't/won't break if handled wrong, I suppose they would be OK.
Personally, I am anti aluminum or fiberglass. I know, there have been tests that show they don't wear. But, I don't eat broken glass either just because the guy in the carnival does.
For range work, brass, stainless steel or Delrin are all excellent. My range rods are SS and Delrin. I've made some brass but haven't used them yet.

 

[roundball]

wouldn't want a rotating handle.

Rotating handles are a good idea and work fine.

To Repeat: "...I wouldn't want a rotating handle..."

 

[roundball]

Roundball those handles just screw on and don't rotate ...correct?

Correct...wouldn't want a rotating handle.

And about the handles, I have the rods all set up with the different size brushes I wanted to mount and in trying one, realized that with Paul Bunyan hands, the handles are a little smaller than I (personally) like...will Epoxy these larger Palm Savers in place instead.

The larger wooden Palm Savers I wanted”¦3-4 minute job:

1) Unscrew original smaller plastic handles
2) Fill the Palm Saver handles half full of Epoxy
3) Slide the rod’s threaded handle ends into the Palm Savers

 

[Rifleman1776]

"...I wouldn't want a rotating handle..."

That is fine.
Ye are upholding the 'do yer own thang' tradition of the avocation.

 

[smo]

Looks great :thumbsup:

 

[roundball]

Looks great :thumbsup:

Excellent product...very stiff strong coated rods without the unnecessary weight of solid brass...the slightly larger handles supply the grip / torque I like to use a ball puller...wish I'd run across these for range rods years ago

 

[coloradoclyde]

I do like that you put a wooden handle on it, and I too do not like a rotating handle on my muzzleloader cleaning rods. :v

 

[Dphar]

Rotating vs non-rotating.
With long barreled rifles that are vertical a rotating handle is not always used since its impossible to reach the handle.
However, if the handle can be used the rotating handle will clean the bore better and prevent the jag from unscrewing.
Why clean better? Well honestly its less important with a very slow twist but is very important with twists commonly used with elongated bullets. The patch or jag follows the rifling rather than skipping over it.
Its also nice if one cleans with the rifle horizontal.
The best material is a a smooth steel or stainless steel rod, with non-magnetic stainless being best. This "smooth steel" recommendation goes back to Harry Pope who recommended drill rod.
If the rod has a free running handle it should actuallt be free running. It should follow the rifling no matter how much pressure is needed to push/pull the patch through the bore. It has to have real bearings to do this.
But the best rods cost a lot more than people here would want to pay based on my observations.

In actual testing smooth steel or wood will produce less wear on the bore. Don't recall anything about aluminum. Hickory is probably the best choice for least wear. Fiberglass is the worst IIRC. I did not do the testing.
A 45-70 case bored to accept the rod makes a good bore guide for 50-54-58 calibers.

Dan

 

[roundball]

Never had a problem cleaning / maintaining my bores in like factory new condition for over 20 years now, so the rotating handle thing is a complete non-issue to muzzleloading.

Worse, rotating handles eliminate the ability to use other ramrod attachments which require positive single direction torque to be applied, ie: using a breech face scraper, using a ball puller, etc.

There is no bore wear with any good stiff, strong rods using good quality muzzle guides. The only other way bore wear could possibly develop would be if using a noodle-limber rod that might bow in the middle or something and I can't imagine how many years that would take to develop.

Brass and anodized aluminum rods are stiff & strong, and in fact, these smaller diameter 5/16" anodized aluminum rods actually seem stiffer than the 5/16" solid brass rods I already have.

Rotating handles evolved for modern centerfire rifles, not muzzleloaders.

 

[coloradoclyde]

If you know who Harry Pope was then you already have more gun knowledge than 99.99% of the population. Not putting anyone down just respecting Pope’s work. :thumbsup:

 

[Rifleman1776]

Its also nice if one cleans with the rifle horizontal.

May be "nice". But not permitted on a regulated range. :shocked2:

 

[larry wv]

Anybody try the CVA lifetime Brass rod Wally world sells for 30 bux? Been waiting for one to go on sale. Guess I am cheap. :redface: Larry

 

[Rifleman1776]

Been waiting for one to go on sale. Guess I am cheap. Larry

Most of us are cheap. That part is OK. But the waiting to buy is worthy of lashes. :wink: This is a do it yerself avocation. Make yer own. Brass rod and tubing can be purchased. Here is one I made for yuks, have not used yet. I call it my Jim Dandy rod.

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