5,6,7 year spread on a production gun

[Henry2357]

To all you firearm mechanics, builders or just folks with allot more experience than I, a question.

Pedersoli Blue Ridge Flintlock Rifles sold by Cabela's.

Read many reviews and threads but, most from years ago. Nothing really up to date, at least I can't find.

5,6,7 or more years ago the reviews on these rifles was so-so.

Do you guys think improvements have been made in barrel securing, (I think pins now?) lock, overall appearance, and any changes that may have be made by the manufacture to correct period placement?

I know there a re FAR better rifles but, at a cost the regular Joe can't really swing.

Thanks, a regular Joe

 

[coloradoclyde]

I take reviews with so much salt my doctor says I shouldn't read them.....
http://www.cabelas.com/product/Pedersoli-Blue-Ridge-Flintlock-Rifles/1608552.uts#tabsCollection

 

[jbwilliams3]

I’d be interested in hearing that they use pins now. I’m not aware of that change having been made, though I’ve seen a few folks who’ve heavily modified these (not sure it’s worth all the effort/expense). I bought one new in ’05 or so. Very good gun but the things I disliked the most were: the strange barrel screws (though they did make removing the barrel convenient when needed), the patent breech, the barrel balance, the excess wood from the lock forward to the muzzle, and the sights. It would be fairly straightforward to shave down some of the excess wood, refinish, and replace the sights. The barrel balance can’t reasonably be fixed and adding pins seems like it would be a bit too much trouble. I wouldn’t discourage anyone from buying a Blue Ridge/Frontier for a good price but were I to buy my first flintlock over again”¦ personally I would have delayed gratification a bit by putting aside an extra $50 or $100 a month for a while and buying something with a swamped barrel and good architecture.

 

[Henry2357]

Only reason I say pins is due to the fact in the manual that comes with it, I read online, on barrel removal it says to push out the 2 pins.

"1c) For the guns of the first group to remove the barrel from the stock, once removed the
ramrod, you have to unscrew the tang screw and then take the pins and/or the wedge off.
( pictures #25 and #26 )"
http://www.davide-pedersoli.com/uploads/supporto/14MUZZLELOADING_GUNS_MANUAL.pdf

As for reviews,I saw Cabela's reviews, not looking for reviews, I agree, take them with a grain of salt. I'm looking for opinions from the folks here who actually know these things I mention, changes hopefully for the better.

 

[Henry2357]

but were I to buy my first flintlock over again”¦ personally I would have delayed gratification a bit by putting aside an extra $50 or $100 a month for a while and buying something with a swamped barrel and good architecture.

I guess I agree with this statement, if I actually knew what a swamped barrel was... :hmm:

 

[Spikebuck]

but were I to buy my first flintlock over again”¦ personally I would have delayed gratification a bit by putting aside an extra $50 or $100 a month for a while and buying something with a swamped barrel and good architecture.

I guess I agree with this statement, if I actually knew what a swamped barrel was... :hmm:

Joe, a swamped barrel is wider at the breech, then it tapers down toward the muzzle, then flares back out wider again, but not as wide as the breech end. You may also hear the term "tapered and flared." This takes weight off the barrel toward the front end and creates a better feeling balance than a straight octagon barrel in the hands to many users .

The pictures below are a bit exaggerated, so look at the measurements on them to get a better idea. Also when people talk about "A" Weight or "B" Weight or "C" Weight, you can see what that means.

Track of the Wolf Swamped Barrel Measurements

 

[Ames]

Anything I buy online I read the NEGATIVE reviews.
I don't trust the positive ones, as they can be bought. But I never heard of buying a bad review for your product. :youcrazy:

 

[Henry2357]

Thanks, the TOTW page explained it nicely.

I also jump right to the negative reviews.
Only problem with reviews, and like I said, don't really trust ANY of them, they are written "mostly" by folks who really don't know Trad ML's well. These forums are the best place for knowledge.

I really didn't want to turn this into a reviews thread, just opinions on what folks think on whether any real "upgrades" were made to the rifle. I really do not need to be 100% PC that really isn't my objective right now. Heck I did buy a time period shirt, but for now plan on wearing my tan Carhart's with a wide leather belt over the shirt. I just want to kinda blend in at casual shoots or rondy's with out being the talk of the camp.

 

[TerryK]

I had a coupon, CC points, and they were on sale two weeks ago at Cabelas. I could have walked out of the store for under 500.00. I thought the flash hole was too low, the lock looked cheap, and the balance was too front heavy for my taste. Again it is OK, but I could not buy it. I thought a Lyman looked better in that price point.

 

[Ames]

Not for nothing but it was the high gloss finish on a maple stock that convinced me I should build my own guns. I shouldn't have to refinish the stock on an unfired rifle to please me. That was the deal breaker. My 2 cents.

 

[Henry2357]

Thank guys, that's the input I'm looking for.

 

[bpd303]

I bought a 54 caliber three years ago that was in the Bargain Cave on sale for $480.

The finish is satin and the barrel is retained with the screws through the ramrod pipes no pins. It was on sale because my Cabela's doesn't stock them anymore (have to order online).

I haven't had any problems with mine and it's a good shooter, comparable to my Hatfield 45 caliber.

 

[Critter Getter]

To answer your question............ No, I do not think there as been any improvements or changes to improve the Blue Ridge from earlier guns. If anything, I think the fit and finish looks better on my Blue Ridge flinter and Frontier percussion that are a few years older than the ones I saw today at Cabela's. For what it's worth, I think these are pretty decent guns. Not quite as nice as my Hatfields and not nearly as nice as my custom longrifles, but they are the best option out there for a production longrifle in my opinion. Also, I have never seen or had a problem with the barrel retaining system that they and the Hatfields both use. Greg.

 

[No Deer]

I really do not need to be 100% PC that really isn't my objective right now.

I don't have the Blue Ridge, but I have, and have had, a couple of Pedersoli guns. They are not, and do not claim to be, historically correct. What they are is a well functioning, (usually) good fit and finish, reliably sparking gun that generically fit the requirements of period guns. If you are looking to get started in flintlocks, and can't budget for a custom, Pedersoli is, in my opinion, a very good way to get started.

 

[Henry2357]

Thanks to all the great information here.
As of right now with my Percussion Trade rifle being new to me I will first get used to that,,,,,, but, gents, a fine flintlock is really in the future.

Joining up with a club in Saratoga very soon and will pick the minds of the members there also. I am a gatherer of info before I pull the trigger and allot of good info here.
MJ

 

[Grimord]

I have an older Blue Ridge in .36 and a Hatfield in .45. The Hatfield has a better lock, and I upgraded my Blue Ridge with a L&R lock. Much better now. The only difference I have noticed is that the Blue Ridge now has a Blued barrel, and the older ones were brown. The guns are essentially the same in all other respects. My Hatfield has a grade III birds eye maple stock that is to die for.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

If you want an inexpensive but good shooting long rifle, and you can't afford a semi-custom gun even "in the white", then the only option these days is the Pedersoli Frontier, aka the Blue Ridge Hunter.

Mountain Joe wrote:
I know there a re FAR better rifles...

Better?
Much more historically accurate? Absolutely. Better balanced for off-hand shooting or lighter for carrying all day in the field? Yes. Better shooting? Not so sure since that is partially dependent on the shooter AND the task at hand, for while an 8" group from a bench at 100 yards isn't going to win medals at Friendship Indiana, at 50 yards that's a 4" group and will slay deer.

The flintlock Blue Ridge Hunter, this is coming from a former owner, is well made and the lock is large and normally sparks very well from the factory. The large lock allows for one to use 3Fg powder as both the main charge and the priming powder. They are good shooters though I only recommend the .54 as I found my .50 a bit quirky from time to time. They do have a patent breech so it does need tending but it's not a problem when known.

From a visual standpoint, the BRH is not correct. Stock shape, hardware, sights, ramrod lugs are more done for ease of manufacture and low unit cost to Pedersoli, rather than with an eye on history. YET with all that you won't be turned away at an historic event and you can fill your freezer with venison and lesser critters if you so choose, AND you can will some local matches with practice.

You may not have considered another option of a partial kit. Sitting Fox offers their Appalachian Barn Gun which is a 20 gauge smooth bore, and you can have them put in the barrel, lock, and trigger for a total cost of $750 for the parts and the labor. You will have to do the rest, but the rest isn't very hard. IF you want a rifle, you might contact by email Sitting Fox and see if they would use an octagon/round .54 barrel instead of the 20 gauge smooth bore. You should still be talking under $850 for the kit, and closer to "correct" than the BRH when you are done.

Yes that's $300 more than the BRH, and you may have to wait a bit as the .54 octagon to round barrels are out of stock right now, but it's up to you.


LD

 

[Critter Getter]

I only recommend the .54 as I found my .50 a bit quirky from time to time.

Can you let me know about these quirks? I have a .50 that I honestly haven't spent enough time with to completely figure it out yet and any shortcuts to their quirks would be appreciated.

Greg

 

[jbwilliams3]

Sounds like most likely a one-off”¦ I had a .45 and it was a find shooter that suffered from the same issues as every other caliber in this gun. As someone else pointed out, the patent breech can be dealt with satisfactorily if one knows about it, but it’s still rather annoying. Everything else that’s “wrong” with the gun doesn’t affect its functionality unless you consider the lock to be poor, though I think the touch hole probably causes more issues than the lock does.

 

[Critter Getter]

I personally do not think the locks are bad on these as mine sparks like a barn on fire. The flints have decent life out of the lock as well and I get 50-60 shots on my flint. I agree that I would rather have the touch hole a bit higher and may remedy that but the gun is very reliable as is so I may be fixing a non-existent problem. The ram rods are junk on them tho but that is a cheap and easy fix. I still can not for the life of me find a problem with the barrel being bolted on rather than the pin method other than not being HC correct. My Hatfields use that method and are extremely accurate and I have done well competing with them. Greg.