54 cal rifle, is this barrel safe

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the stock is cracked from the butt plate forward and extends about 2 1/2" along the left side. it also has a smaller crack at the top of the rear barrel tang extending towards the rear about 1/4 ". and it has a 3rd crack at the point the trigger inlet is extending towards the butt. i am hoping they don't all line up.
i have tried to contact and get no reply. i hear he is going out of business or is out of buisness all ready.
i am going to glue and pin it, finish it as a plain poor boy style and just use it, if i can deem it safe.
 
The cracks would indicate to me that the stock was shaped before the wood was dry. I would fill them with very thin super glue or epoxy.
you can buy a water thin epoxy. I sometimes use it as a sealer. Some marine supplies sell it for repairing dry rot in wooden boats. http://www.rotdoctor.com/
be sure to stain before using the epoxy.
 
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"this kit was expensive ($1400)and suppost to be premium'

That is a pricey parts set, especialy comsidering what yopu have told of it thus far, I do not mean to rub your nose in it so to speak but it does reflect the need to get as many references and do as much home work as possible when gettIng a gun or parts, A while back I saw a write up on a coule of a guys guns that were very decieveing from a historical perspective and this guy was asking about $2000 for a French Fusil (Tulle) with a "correct" curly maple stock :shocked2: I was kind of surprised to see a builder in this level with so much inaccurate information about the various guns.I hope things work out for you with your parts and also hope that others will maybe learn something from it, I constantly harp on this issue and this is the reason why, good luck I think it will all work out in the long run, as most have said the first few inches is where the concern about shallow barrel walls is generally an issue, whe proofing the barrel make sure it is well secured as one ,member mentioned they can get away from you and can be damaged in the process which is a shame if a barrel is proofed OK but danaged from banging into something solid and getting bent
 
thanks everyone for your thoughts on this. i have measure the area again and there is close to .060 thickness left, that is assuming the bore runs straight down the barrel. the dovetails in qustion are quite away from the breach. i will proof it, i think it will be ok but we will see. lesson learned. thanks tg
 
I don't even want to dream up how much powder it would take to blow out that much metal. I have dealt with replica revolvers that had front sight holes drilled so deep you could see the thin "shim-sized" metal on the bottom of the hole buckling from shooting the gun. I am talking .001", or even less, metal between the grooves and the bottom of that hole!

I am sure that your barrel is safe to shoot with any reasonable charge of BLACK POWDER.
 
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