Shooter1
40 Cal
You got it...1-72. Shooters at range always know when mine goes off....
Well, my 1-72 twist guns and barrels have done gone down the road. Don’t need to knock the plaque off my teeth when I pull the trigger any more. I have a lot porcelain in my mouth and the plaque doesn’t touch the finish on the stuff. For some reason I have found it many times comes down to twist rate (and don’t forget depth of rifling), but I have only been doing this since the late 1960s and don’t have the experience of the experts touting very slow twist rates. And an interesting thing is, no matter how hot you send roundballs out if the bore, by the time they get to 100 yards or so velocity is about the same. I love to watch the folks with their 1-96 or more twists and 150 grain plus minimum charges for accuracy killing paper at 100 yards as I use my 80 grain or less powder-puff loads. As you say, ‘Shooters at range always know when mine goes off....’, plus plus the smoke is impressive. Rock on…..You got it...1-72. Shooters at range always know when mine goes off....
Barely noticeable. Did think about going 150gn but would rather save powderOuch!
Where did you get your maxi balls from?Wow, that's reaching back...I used to shoot one long time ago. I had a CVA Big-Bore Mountain Rifle for a couple years and like a fool I sold it.
For paper punching, I used 75 grains of ffg...Inside of 60 to 65yrds...it was a good load. I'd have to adjust my point of aim, because this gun was a hunting gun and so sighted with my hunting loads in mind. If a shoot had targets out at 100 yrds plus a little bit, I just used my RB elk load due to the drop of the projectile. Much beyond 50 yrds...it dropped pretty good, with just a 75 grain load...
For hunting elk, I used 105 grains of ffg, under a patched RB, and it was a hammer on elk.
Using a Maxi-Ball I used 95 grains of ffg, stout load to shoot from the bench, but great elk medicine.
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