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I am glad the information from the patches confirms what I suspected. I think you are a very good shot, and I was disappointed with some of the targets. Cold or not, you just are not that bad a shot!

That and the dimension you gave to the ball you are loading, without telling us how thick the patch( denim comes in various thicknesses ) led me to think you could do with thicker patches, even if you have to double up with one thin and one thick patch to get there. I think the barrel is very capable of good accuracy, even looking at those groups.

I found that using an OP wad( 1/8 fiber wad, available from Track of the Wolf, or directly from John Walters) protected the Patch( so you don't get what happened to these, here!) AND, allowed the thinner patch to center the smaller ball, to give consistent performance. Its the OP wad that reduces the wide swings in velocity that you get when you are not using a thick enough patch for the ball you have chosen.

There is nothing wrong with using a thin patch. It allows you to load the ball easier- thumb pressure to start it, and then the ramrod to run it down, hand over hand, onto the OP wad. Since the barrel is not rifled, the patch does not have to Grab the ball and impart the spin of the rifling to it.

In rifles, the choice of ball diameter becomes critical, based on bore diameter, and even groove depth. That is not a problem in smoothbores. What is a continuing problem with both rifles and smoothbores is the tearing and burning of patches that are too thin, from gas cutting. Since I use OS cards, or OP wads in my smoothie when shooting shot loads, its no extra expense to use them when shooting RB loads.

When I first shot my Fowler with undersized patches and wads, the velocity was more than 250 feet LESS than when I obtained and used the proper wads and patching. That put my RBs on target about 8 inches low at 25 yards! YIKES!!!

With the OP wad, and correct patches, I not only got better velocity, but the group moved up just under the aiming point at 25 yards, allowing me to move back to 50 yards for further testing. The chronograph showed that I was getting much more consistent velocity when I used the OP wad behind my PRB loads, than when I fired only the PRB.

The patches showed some tearing, and burning when fired without the OP wad, so I knew that I had to go to a thicker patch, or find a larger diameter ball. I have a handful of .610" balls to try in my gun when the weather gets a bit better. I had been shooting .600" diameter balls. I now have a selection of patch material to try, also. And, if I can start getting consistent groups at 50 yards, I will see if my powder charge can be increased ( or decreased to improve the groups.)Only when I settle on the load the gun likes, will I finally begin filing my sights to zero the gun for that load.
 
Ok, I used the bump up die i made as a test barrel for patch thickness, I drilled it with the same bit as the barrel. I found that a greased round cleaning patch on top of the blue jean patch required a good hit with the short starter so i think i`m on the right track there. Also Frank brought up another problem and that i forgot to put a bevel on the muzzle. It is sharp and i`m sure it is cutting the patch while loading . I`ll chuck the barrel up in the big four jaw in the morning and put a nice bevel in it. I`ll then shoot five balls and see what we get, i`ll post a picture of the target late morning.
Thanks for the help and good evening. :thumbsup:
 
Looking pretty good! I think the others have nailed it on the patch problem. I also think that 80-90 grains is going to shoot better with far less drop. Don't give up on your slugs. The only problem I foresee with them is the heavier powder charges may blow the skirts in the same way a heavy charge in a minie ball musket will. You won't know though unless you give it a try.
:thumbsup:
 
There are a couple problems built into the gun that you're having to work against. That big door hinge of a lock slapping that nipple has to be throwing your shot off some. That's alot of metal swing around out there. The short barrel can't help either. Gotta reamer? That will help. Your barrel attachment allows for no barrel expansion. As that barrel heats up it's going to throw balls all over the place.
 
Thanks for the input Mike, the action is pretty light and doesn`t move the gun when shooting. In fact i was impressed of how smooth it worked. As far as the way the barrel is attached that could be a factor but then why did the slugs that expand against the barrel group so much better. I didn`t shoot very fast and at 30 above the barrel didn`t warm much. Nope don`t have a ream wish i did. Our theories will be tested in a couple hours when it warms up enough. :thumbsup:
 
PitchyPine said:
Have to do some more shooting with the patched round balls, kinda big groups.
All shootin at 20 yards.

Just speculating, but could the large groups be from the sliding bar trigger design? It may be causing you to "pull" on the gun differently than a standard trigger would...
 
Musketman said:
PitchyPine said:
Have to do some more shooting with the patched round balls, kinda big groups.
All shootin at 20 yards.

Just speculating, but could the large groups be from the sliding bar trigger design? It may be causing you to "pull" on the gun differently than a standard trigger would...

Nope, ya don`t even know when the gun goes off, works so smooth ya can`t even flinch. There`s no issues with the lock or holding steady. :thumbsup:
 
PitchyPine said:
I bet you guys are right it needs a thicker patch. That`s gotta be why those shot gun slugs shot better.

You can try an over powder card or two, then the patched roundball, that will also help seal the charge.
 
Yepper Paul mentioned that also, will try the thicker patch first and go from there. :thumbsup:
 
PitchyPine said:
Yepper Paul mentioned that also, will try the thicker patch first and go from there. :thumbsup:

May I suggest barrel lapping to remove any chatter, I lapped my brown bess until it is mirror smooth when I bought it back in the late 1980's and it made a noticeable difference in the groups and gave less places for fouling to gather.
 
That`s a good idea too but if i lap this thing to much i`m going to end up with a 8 gauge. :redface:
I don`t expect or need great accuracy from this thing, it was just a fun project and something different to make.
Apreciate the help guys. :thumbsup:
 
Well that seem to do it, jerked on the one. Same set up as yesterday, 20 yards, 70 grains FFF. FF might even do better.
This thing really shoots smooth, love it. :thumbsup:
Thanks for the help fellers. :hatsoff:

2ndtarget.jpg


2ndpatchset.jpg
 
Smooth bores often take a lot of powder and a thick patch with a smaller ball to shoot well.

Dan
 
looks like you might need to shave the front sight just a touch But other than that looks good :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 
And don't forget the "USE BLACK POWDER ONLY" warning for the barrel... :rotf:

Sorry, just having some fun because I really like your homemade musket.
 
Thanks gents, I really like the feel of this one too, my favorite gun right now. :thumbsup: Yep filed the front site a little more, should be close to dead on now. :thumbsup:
So there isn`t any confusion I put the cleaning patch on top of the denium patch to get the thickness i wanted. Could even be a little tighter so will keep looking.
 
:hatsoff: Pitchy, I have been reading the posts and looking at your pics in silent awe of your skills and ingenuity. I am waiting to see what you will come up with next.

:thumbsup: :bow: :bow:

Jac S. Muell

Fast becoming the #1 Pitchy fan.
 
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