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A Colt Paterson Holster

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scobrien

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I have had this Paterson for a number of years, but have never had a holster for it. Anytime I wanted to pack it very far, I ended up stuffing it in my belt. After conversing with Swampy, he offered the suggestion of making up a holster for it. Since he did not have that particular model in which to make a pattern from, he gave me directions on how to make the pattern. I used a brown paper grocery bag for the pattern and then I sent it off to him. The result was that my Paterson now has an outstanding piece of leather to ride in.

The following pics will show how I made the holster pattern as well as the finished product. However, I used copy paper instead of a grocery bag just for for these demo pics.

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For starters I folded the paper in half length wise and then traced the crease line with a pen to highlight it. The line serves as a reference point for placing the pistol on the paper to ensure consistant trace marks on either side of the holster pattern.

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Then I laid the pistol on the paper with the front sight and the hammer spur dead even with the center line. I made sure that I was looking directly over top of the pistol and straight down on the paper to line the pistol up with the line.
I then used a pencil to trace around the pistol.

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Then I flipped the pistol over to the opposite side of the paper and repeated the steps. I also retraced over my pencil line with a pen to clean up any uneven and sloppy lines that I made during the initial trace. (Note- The hammer spur doeas not appear to be against the crease line but that is due to the camera angle).

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The last step was to make a dotted line on both sides of the crease line to indicate where I wanted the leather to end on the opening. From this point, Swampy took over once he received the pattern in the mail. He will add to the pattern to allow for the stitching seam and muzzle clearance at the bottom of the holster.

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This is the holster that I got sent back to me. Keep in mind that the both of us had planned for me to form fit the Paterson to the leather. Also note that the holster received a coating of light brown dye from Swampy.

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To form fit the holster, I soaked the leather by running it under warm water from the tap. I then wrapped the Paterson in Saran wrap and began working in down into the holster, all the while stretching the leather out aroung the frame and cylinder. Once I had the pistol pushed down into the holster to the depth that I wanted, I rubbed the exterior of the leather with my thumbs to shape the holster around and into the curves and recesses of the pistol. I pulled a lot of the dye out of the leather during the wet shaping, so I went ahead and gave it a good recoating of leather dye while it was still wet. My dye happend to be of a darker shade though. I then tossed the pistol aside to let the leather dry. Every couple of hours, I removed the pistol and reset it into the wet leather until it started getting quite dry. At that point, I left the pistol in the holster over night. By morning it was dry and good to go.

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The next day, I rubbed some bear grease into the leather and the rest is history. The Paterson has a nice snug and perfect fit. It will not fall out on its own. I have never seen a holster like this for a Paterson and am proud to have it.

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Here is the holster compared to a run of the mill mass produced holster that I pack my 1861 colt model in. Note the difference in how slim the Paterson holster is.

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I wanted the holster to hang straight and the belt loop is of a solid piece constuction incorporated with the rest of the leather.

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This is his touch mark that is placed on the bottom back side of his holster.

So, if you want a holster for one of the percussion models that are not common, they can be had by following these steps. That goes without saying that one for the common models can be had as well. Gonna try and talk him into making one for my Walker now :hmm:
 
Nice work, but from what I've read there really weren't many holsters at the time the patterson was produced, they mostly stuck them in there sash or waist band, hence the folding trigger. Come to think of it there weren't many belts in that time period either.

The patterson is one of my favorite cap and ball revolvers. I wish Uberti was still making them.

Did you put a welt in the holster or just stitch the two sides together? I've only done a few holsters, and have put welts in them, don't know if it's PC or not.
 
Not to shabby for the first try. I will take your advise and put more of a taper for the barrel length...looks good though. :thumbsup:

Blademaster I use a welt in all my holsters, yes. I also did a little looking and found a couple originals with remnants of holsters, that I went by.
 
Thanks, wasn't sure if others were using welts or not, just seemed like the thing to do.

Now you got me to looking for another patterson!
 
Looks great!

Would it not be better to just trace the outline on one side, fold the pattern and then cut both sides out from the same tracing? That would probably keep the two sides more uniform. :wink:
 
Very Nice! Here are some of the holster's I've made for Patersons the past few months.

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The first one is based off of a surviving original used in one of the early ranging companies here in Texas, though it had a finial in place for a flap that had been cut off by it's original owner so I just used the basic body shape. The leather was treated with beef tallow, cod liver oil, and beeswax.

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This next set are a scaled down copy of a surviving original enameled leather Walker Colt holster that made the long walk into Mexico with Scott in 1848. I made these two for one of my friends who has a brace of Patersons and uses them for Republic of Texas living histories.

Good work on yours!
Cody Mobley
 
Wow, that came out beautifully, I like the dark color too. If I had a Paterson I'd be trying to talk Sawmpy outa one just like it :thumbsup:
 
CraigC said:
Looks great!

Would it not be better to just trace the outline on one side, fold the pattern and then cut both sides out from the same tracing? That would probably keep the two sides more uniform. :wink:

You really can't do it that way Craig. If your careful placing the pistol where its supposed to be it will come out right. But what you don't see there is after he traced the gun he dropped the tracing in the mail to me, once I received it I then add 1/2" to 3/4" around half of his tracing making it bigger. Then I cut that half out and lay it over, trace to the other side and continue cutting that side out. Done right, you now have a pattern to go by that you can alter slightly to your liking of use as is.
 
Swampy said:
You really can't do it that way Craig.
Not to be argumentative, but that's how Chuck Burrows does it in his video. He only traces the outline of the pattern of one side (on a file folder, centered on its fold), folds it in half and then cuts out both sides at once.
 
You didn't ruffle anything, if you did there wouldn't have been a peace sign icon in my last post...

The fact is, when some one else is sending me a tracing, thats what I want, a tracing of the gun. I don't want anything cut out. I'll do that here after I add a boarder to the tracing...
 
Since my name came ip I'll throw in my dos centavos - While I do show "my way" of doing things in the video (the way I learned and have been doing now for 51 years) it may not be the best way for and definitely the only way.
In part I agree with swampy - adding a bit extra to the edges either the front or back or both is not a bad thing necessarily although for thoose wanting to add edge stamping or other tooling it can cause a few problems.
In general I woudl say for those just starting out that addition will probably be a good aid and should help prevent some possible errors - on the other hand if/once you're comfortable with making patterns then "my way" can save a bit of time and amterials as well as obviating some problems for those wishing to toool their leather - then again I've made so many of the bloody things over the last 51 years that I can practically do it in my sleep :thumbsup: :v :thumbsup:
 
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