A good way to clean black powder guns.

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There is an old saying that's goes:
"The best tools are designed to do one thing only"

Gunzilla, claims to do it all....for all...

:bull:

Even if it did do what It claims, I still wouldn't buy it...I already have stuff that does everything it claims to do, and for less money.....Why pay more?
 
CC, it does not matter what I like, I like to learn and you seem to have a secret. Please due tell!

Michael
 
I don't know or care what C Clyde uses but I will say plain old water is about the best thing to clean the fouling out of a black powder gun as you'll find.

If you have been using a grease or oil on the patches or slugs, add some dish washing detergent to the water to cut thru the oily deposit it has left in the bore.

IMO, if you add some detergent you don't need to worry about rinsing with clean water.

Rinsing is often done with dishes because it washes off the perfume most dish washing detergents have. (No one likes perfume on their roast beef or mashed potatoes.) :rotf:

A little perfume in your guns bore won't hurt anything.

After cleaning your gun, run several clean patches thru the bore to remove as much moisture as possible.
Then, run a lightly oiled, clean patch down the bore several times.

(A lot of people like to use some WD 40 because it is designed to force water out of small areas.)

I like to use Birchwood Casey Barricade as a final coating in my guns bores.

It drys to a very protective, very thin coat that keeps rust away.
 
Now hold the phone guys I'm running my own test tonight on an acetone cleaned sheet of mild steel.
I triple burned three lines of 2 F separated by a fire brick to isolate the burn lines.
The middle line was left as is after the triple burn using at least 10 times the amount used in a pan. One side was cleaned with water only and the other side Gunzilla only.

Acetone cleaned mild steel sheet.

Three triple burn lines with at least 10 times the amount of powder used in a pan burn x 3.

Two identical shirt sleeve cloths of the same material I use for ball patching .022 cotton shirt felt. The left was the one used with clean cold water. The one on the right was pure Gunzilla. Much less Gunzilla was used than was water as the cloth plainly shows.

The left side of the plate was the water clean and the right side was the Gunzilla cleaned.
The water did clean a bit faster but not by much and there was lots more of it on the cloth.
The test plate is in the bluing cabinet and will be left over night at 100 percent humidity to see what we have for corrosion in the morning.
Oh, both sides were wiped dry with a clean paper towel before placing in the bluing cabinet.
I think I will go out now and wipe the water side again then patch with gun oil for a better test of what actually will happen in hunting camp.
 
I removed the test plate and with a clean sheet of paper towel wiped the water clean side again then oil patched that one side with Outer's gun oil.
It is the original Outer's gun oil which is very good stuff.
The Gunzilla side was untouched.
Will pull in the AM and take a picture of the results.
Here is the muzzle of the test gun I cleaned one month ago only with gunzilla and no water.
I've been checking it often with the bore scope from both ends and all I have found is some dark translucent stain in one tiny area in the whole bore. It looks like the Gunzilla may have dissolved some fouling out of a pore or land abrasion from the rifling process.
I ran a couple of JB patches down and the stain is gone.
Here is a picture of the bare metal crown cleaned only with Gunzilla one month ago.
 
Thinking on this some more I got to wondering if the fact that I duplex load with 6 grains of smokeless under the 60 grains of 1.5 Swiss under the veggy wad and grease bullet, may make a less hard fouling than does pure bp load used in our muzzle loaders.
Well any way I sure am glad to get some more folks to kick the tires on this product.
The main reason I like it is because it strips lead so well but if it will keep corrosion from happening while hunting that will be a big bonus as well.
 
M.D. said:
Thinking on this some more I got to wondering if the fact that I duplex load with 6 grains of smokeless under the 60 grains of 1.5 Swiss under the veggy wad and grease bullet, may make a less hard fouling than does pure bp load used in our muzzle loaders.
Well any way I sure am glad to get some more folks to kick the tires on this product.
The main reason I like it is because it strips lead so well but if it will keep corrosion from happening while hunting that will be a big bonus as well.

Don't say things like that on a muzzleloading forum... :shocked2: You'll put stupid ideas in some newbies head that could get him KILLED!
You're not even using a muzzleloader.... :shake:
 
16 hours later in bluing cabinet and humidity.

The water cleaned and oiled side(left) still looks the same.
Gunzilla side shows the translucent stain I was talking about inside one small area in the bore of the test gun. Looks like a reaction to some of the left over fouling residue that did not get removed completely by Gunzilla.
It also shows how good a preservative that old Outer's oil is on the cleaned water side.
I think Erick is right, the water dissolves the BP fouling more thoroughly and if one can get the bore dry then a good oil will preserve it.
Back into the bluing cabinet until we get some corrosion going and test a little deeper.
I set the plate on edge this time rather than flat on the bottom shelf of the bluing cabinet to see if it will get more of the moist air contact.
Interesting project for us all to participate in.
 

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