Acid etching a steel twist shotgun barrel

[Mike Stone]

Hello everyone
I searched for a thread on this and couldn't find one so if there is one maybe someone can kindly point me in that direction.

I restore old shotguns mostly percussion, generally clumsily and just from what I can research off the internet, which is one of the reasons I joined the forum.

I have a double barrel 12 gauge that's probably 1840s to 1860s no real markings on it for me to tell could be earlier. The only real marking on it is fine twist on the rib that the barrels are braised to. I've been cleaning the barrels with progressively finer Sand paper. Under the first layer of rust was a good portion of the twist pattern some of the cleanup has eradicated more of it so it's not consistent through the barrel.

My intention is to acid etch the barrels with ferric chloride and neutralize with baking soda solution. And I'm not exactly sure what to expect. I got a 945 mL bottle and I'm setting up a couple of 2-in PVC tubes for etching and neutralizing. The ferric chloride doesn't say what dilution it is from the factory.

So my question is how much distilled water and how much ferric chloride should I use in the first acid wash?

Thanks for your patience with the long post.

 

[nhmoose]

I used the ferric chloride from Radio Shack no dilution and no soak. I applied it to the polished barrels and sit overnight then carded off with a soda-soaked rough cloth. Then soda soaked 4/0SW. Was then coloring with Rust blue to again carding with 4/0SW. Barrel finish was white steel and black figure of the Damascus. I applied a clear lacquer finish to them to protect the finish.

This I did on unmentionables of the 19th century in my gun shop and bluing service.

 

[Mike Stone]

I used the ferric chloride from Radio Shack no dilution and no soak. I applied it to the polished barrels and sit overnight then carded off with a soda-soaked rough cloth. Then soda soaked 4/0SW. Was then coloring with Rust blue to again carding with 4/0SW. Barrel finish was white steel and black figure of the Damascus. I applied a clear lacquer finish to them to protect the finish.

This I did on unmentionables of the 19th century in my gun shop and bluing service.

Thanks, I've never heard of doing it like that, many guys do the soak, sounds easier than soaking and use would use much less chemical. What's the worst that could happen, re card it and do it again, the grain is under there, just gotta bring it out.

 

[hawkeye2]

Soak? If it etches the outside of the barrels won't it etch the bore an equal amount?

 

[Mike Stone]

Soak? If it etches the outside of the barrels won't it etch the bore an equal amount?

I have rubber stoppers and nipple plugs

 

[Mike Stone]

I've only worked with double barrel shotguns so far. I have several cut off barrels from making Coach guns out of full size shotguns that have let rust in my garage for 3 years. I'm carting one now as we speak I can't tell if it was a twist but I think it was there is no Trace left of the twist on it. But I think I'll polish it up and try the wipe it on and sit overnight method. If it was a twist I should know in the morning p

 

[Mike Stone]

I used the ferric chloride from Radio Shack no dilution and no soak. I applied it to the polished barrels and sit overnight then carded off with a soda-soaked rough cloth. Then soda soaked 4/0SW. Was then coloring with Rust blue to again carding with 4/0SW. Barrel finish was white steel and black figure of the Damascus. I applied a clear lacquer finish to them to protect the finish.

This I did on unmentionables of the 19th century in my gun shop and bluing service.

Okay the barrel scrap that I found is definitely a twist. I can see just the slightest pattern as I'm sanding it off. In your experience do you think that the pattern will come out even on this old sanded out one?

 

[Mike Stone]

Okay the barrel scrap that I found is definitely a twist. I can see just the slightest pattern as I'm sanding it off. In your experience do you think that the pattern will come out even on this old sanded out one?

The new barrel that I'm working on still has quite a bit of pattern on it how do you think that will affect the etching process?

 

[nhmoose]

After polishing you may not make out any pattern. We never used plugs, using plugs not mechanically secured can blow the out in a very fierce manner. What little etch at the muzzle will clean up when the bore is polished.

If you have pattern left, you have yet to polish the barrels. Barrels need polish till they look like steel unfinished.

 

[Mike Stone]

Ok will do, I'll let you know how it goes

 

[Mike Stone]

Ok will do, I'll let you know how it goes

Oh, and thanks for the warning about the plugs.

 

[andy52]

On my knifes I use a solution of muriatic acid and hydrogen porcicide to bring out the patterns in Damascus steel.

 

[Mike Stone]

This is the scrap of the old barrel I used ferric chloride on the left hand barrel twice. I'm sure the gun I'm working on now is going to turn out much better because I really didn't polish this one all that great it was just a test but it looks good. I usually cold blue my barrels after I clean them I wonder if I should try cold bluing the barrel that I eched to the pattern out of.

 

[Mike Stone]

This is sort of an unrelated question please advise if I should start another post. I couldn't find anything on the board pertaining to this particular issue.

I am refinishing a double barrel shotgun barrel and in the process the center ramrod tube fell off. It was obviously soft soldered on. I'm a plumbing contractor so I know how to solder but I'm concerned that I'll mess it up and loosen the barrels or something. I was considering just using epoxy to reattach it. Any thoughts?

 

[Damy2128]

This is the process I use. After fixing any dents and ensuring the ribs are solidly attached, sand and polish to 400 grit. Anything finer is a waste of time imho. Then I rust blue, card and repeat until the desired blackness is obtained. At this point the pattern will not be visable. I apply a good coating of oil to the bores then plug both ends with either cork or rubber stoppers. I next will dip the barrels in ferric chloride for 8 - 10 seconds. Immediately rinse and card the barrels and repeat until the desired level of etch is achieved. The final carding is done with baking soda liberally sprinkled on the tubes and hand rubbed then rinse with clean tap water. Remove the plugs and submerge them in kerosene for 24-48 hours. Then remove wipe down and remove the oils from bores using a bore mop or the like. Lastly apply a light lacquer coat and enjoy. It’s a very time consuming process but the results are very gratifying.