Adjusting stains

[chawbeef]

Hi all. I am considering a dark walnut water based stain for my hard maple stock and wondered if I could get a bit of red in it by soaking a pouch of iron filings in it til they oxidize?? Has anyone tried anything like this before??? I am trying to avoid any hazardous methods of finish like AF. Thanks for looking............Daniel

 

[Ames]

I do mine with LMF stains, blending 2 colors with alternating coats while still wet. Start with a red, then cover and rub with walnut half strength once, twice, 3 times etc. till satisfied.
Of course you should practice on scrap first.

 

[Black Hand]

Hi all. I am considering a dark walnut water based stain for my hard maple stock and wondered if I could get a bit of red in it by soaking a pouch of iron filings in it til they oxidize?? Has anyone tried anything like this before??? I am trying to avoid any hazardous methods of finish like AF. Thanks for looking............Daniel

AF is not hazardous...

If you are determined to use a water-based walnut stain, try a little mahogany stain too - it has a reddish color. You'll need to try combinations on scrap pieces to get the color you want - you may need to mix the stains or apply one or the other before/after.

Another option is iron in vinegar to make Vinegaroon. It is used like AF and varying the iron concentration will change the intensity/presence of a red color. Lots of experimenting.

Another option is Fiebings leather dye, comes in many colors - Again, lots of experimenting. (Used Fiebings in combination with 2-3 different water-based stains to achieve an AF-like appearance during The Great AF Drought of 2001 - worked OK but was an enormous pain to get something that looked right).

You could just avoid the nuisance and use AF then a stock finish with a reddish tint (Chambers Stock Finish is what I used).

Ultimately, the color will be what the wood determines it will be when it interacts with the reagent/stain. It really all depends how much noodling about you wish to do - just remember that you really only get one shot...

 

[BrownBear]

Another option is Fiebings leather dye, comes in many colors - Again, lots of experimenting.

I have lots of Fiebings on hand from my leatherwork, and I've used it on a number of small wood projects. Excellent. It thins well for lighter applications, too.

Haven't tried it on a stock yet, but I wouldn't hesitate to do so.

 

[Black Hand]

When I used the Fiebings, I applied it to the wood then wiped it back using paper towels and isopropyl alcohol to remove the excess (served to accentuate the curl, as it was less dense and absorbed the stain more deeply). With much effort and multiple applications of several different stains & dyes, it looked OK but didn't have the richness and depth one gets with Aquafortis and a tinted finish. The customer was happy...but I haven't done it since then as I use Aquafortis exclusively on Maple gunstocks.

 

[Black Hand]

Addendum: I used volatile solvent-based (not water-based) Fiebings dyes.

 

[ZUG]

I've used water base dyes in the past but never got the look I was after and it faded over time - I stopped using it about 25+ years ago. I've used LMF and Homer Dangler stains with good results but the best color on maple was with AF and finished with an oil - like Chambers or Permalyn.

 

[Larry Akers]

I use a dark brown as a first coat applied liberally. I rub it back with coarse burlap or 0000 steel wool and then apply LMF maple for reddish highlights.

 

[Zonie]

Alcohol or water based stains are all I use now.

I recommend buying some mahogony in addition to the walnut stain and adding just a touch of it to the walnut if you want a red cast to the guns color.

As for iron filings, yes, they will color the stain but the color they add is just from the rust particles. It is not really dissolved into the stain so it basically will just color the outside of the wood.

 

[chawbeef]

Alcohol or water based stains are all I use now.

I recommend buying some mahogony in addition to the walnut stain and adding just a touch of it to the walnut if you want a red cast to the guns color.

As for iron filings, yes, they will color the stain but the color they add is just from the rust particles. It is not really dissolved into the stain so it basically will just color the outside of the wood.

Thanks Jim, and all others who took the time to respond. It is greatly appreciated. :hatsoff: ...................Daniel

 

[Vaino]

Walnut stain on maple needs some reddish tones otherwise it's kinda "blah". Many yrs ago I bought a gallon each of walnut and mahogany stains that Bivins said he used and the blended color was beautiful and he used it on many of his LRs.

I presently use Dangler stains from Jim Klein and use up to 3 stains w/ complete drying in between. His reddish brown should give you what you want....but as always, try stains on scrap wood, preferably from the build.....Fred

 

[B.Habermehl]

Just remember to take your stained wood samples out doors to see the colors in natural light. My fluorescent shop lights mess up my color perception in the shop making a significant difference out doors. BJH

 

[chawbeef]

Just remember to take your stained wood samples out doors to see the colors in natural light. My fluorescent shop lights mess up my color perception in the shop making a significant difference out doors. BJH

Thanks for that reminder BH :thumbsup: ........Daniel

 

[Zonie]

When you take your stock outside to see its color, don't forget to lightly wet it with some water.

If it is left dry it will appear about 10 shades lighter than it will be when the stock finish is applied.

If it is slightly wet, it will look the same as it will after oiling the surface.

 

[chawbeef]

When you take your stock outside to see its color, don't forget to lightly wet it with some water.

If it is left dry it will appear about 10 shades lighter than it will be when the stock finish is applied.

If it is slightly wet, it will look the same as it will after oiling the surface.

Another great tip, thanks again Jim.........Daniel