Advertised case hardening on BP revolvers

[GYJ]

Cyanide is used in real case hardening, not the fake stuff.

 

[M. De Land]

Cyanide is used in real case hardening, not the fake stuff.

Never did like the looks of cyanide casing personally and if I couldn't bone case I'd just rust blue the receiver as well.

 

[GYJ]

Never did like the looks of cyanide casing personally and if I couldn't bone case I'd just rust blue the receiver as well.

I know it was used on a lot of other guns but I've always associated it with cheap single shot shotguns.

 

[denster]

Never did like the looks of cyanide casing personally and if I couldn't bone case I'd just rust blue the receiver as well.

Once again the colors are not caused by the carburizing agent but by the airation of the quench. The colors you see are the temp the metal was at when first contacting oxygen ie; bubbles in quench. That is why the colors are called oxydation.

 

[M. De Land]

Once again the colors are not caused by the carburizing agent but by the airation of the quench. The colors you see are the temp the metal was at when first contacting oxygen ie; bubbles in quench. That is why the colors are called oxydation.

My understanding and experience is that oygenated water enhances color but the color is formed from the phosphates in the charcoal reacting to the steel as the carbon is infused to make the hard skin.
You can get color from the free oxygen in distilled water but you get more when oxygen is infused into the quench with bubbles. I like the fish bubblers as it seems to do a better job of infused oxygen into the quench.

 

[M. De Land]

I know it was used on a lot of other guns but I've always associated it with cheap single shot shotguns.

I know were on a hand gun thread but the main topic at hand is case colors and here is a rifle action I did with coconut and bone charcoal using a fish bubbler to aerate the water. I think I remember the temperature at 1375-1400 F. with a 2 minute rest before quench after removal from the oven.
Sorry I didn't have any revolver frames on hand to show color and pattern but steel is steel and except for some of the lever guns most alloys will react pretty similarly.
The color is subdued with the glass bead finish I like to put on the steel that knocks down some of the gawdyness that happens with a polished metal finish. I also believe the roughed up finish from the glass beads holds the case colors better than does polished steel.
The coconut charcoal was an experiment when I ran out of hardwood charcoal but I believe it is where the green color comes from that I think rather distinctive . I got the coconut charcoal from a water purification store here in Anchorage.
I count at least five distinct colors and quite a few shades of each, click on photo to enlarge.

 

[denster]

My understanding and experience is that oygenated water enhances color but the color is formed from the phosphates in the charcoal reacting to the steel as the carbon is infused to make the hard skin.
You can get color from the free oxygen in distilled water but you get more when oxygen is infused into the quench with bubbles. I like the fish bubblers as it seems to do a better job of infused oxygen into the quench.

That hasn't been my experience. When I pack case harden and quench in an un aerated quench all I see is gray. You are correct about the free oxy in distilled water and also in a quench that is aerated for an hour or two prior to quench but not during. However the colors are no where near as bold. Gotta have the bubbles.

 

[M. De Land]

That hasn't been my experience. When I pack case harden and quench in an un aerated quench all I see is gray. You are correct about the free oxy in distilled water and also in a quench that is aerated for an hour or two prior to quench but not during. However the colors are no where near as bold. Gotta have the bubbles.

What I have found is the grey comes when I have the temperature much over 1425 degrees F. and I have always used aerated water wither the colors come out or not. The other thing that is important is the 2 minute rest before the quench dump and keeping the dump as close to the quench surface as possible to eliminate any air from getting to the work.

 

[NCpistolero]

NM