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TheSenate

32 Cal
Joined
Sep 19, 2023
Messages
8
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Location
Cincinnati, Ohio
Hello there y’all!
I’m Senate, and I’m looking to get into muzzle loading with a revolver. Got told to go here from the new members page for more answers.

I’m currently looking at a Pietta 1851 Navy Black Revolver Brass Frame with the 5 and 1/2 inch barrel in .36 caliber.
I’m looking for a cheap revolver (found a new one for $260) that’s relatively easy to shoot repeatedly on range day, but can still put out some power, while being reasonably small enough that I can take it on my camping and wilderness survival excursions.
I am a long time shooter, and have experience in some lefty muzzle loading flintlock rifles, but not muzzle loading percussion revolvers.

What would be the pros and cons of this revolver, and would this be a good fit for me, or do you have a possibly better suggestion? Would it be better to get it in .44 caliber?
Attached is a picture of the revolver.

Thanks in advance!
-Senate
 

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I'd advise a steel frame .44 cal, such as the Colt 1860 New Army, for your first. Though it may not be small enough for your excursions criteria. So you can get a smaller pistol as your next, such as the Colt 1862 Police in .36 cal for that. Then of course you'll have to get ........... (list goes on and on) .........
 
A 1851 in 36 calibre will be pleasant to shoot and is powerful enough for small game. Be aware that point of impact is nearly always higher then point of aim with cap and ball revolvers.
Putting “cheap” as a requirement for anything is a poor plan in life. Economical is a better as it still can mean good quality.
 
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A 1851 in 36 calibre will be pleasant to shoot and is powerful enough for small game. Be aware that point of impact is nearly always higher then point of aim with cap and ball revolvers.
Putting “cheap” as a requirement for anything is a poor plan in life. Economic is a better as it still can mean good quality.
Economical is the better word, I just blank on words to adequately express my thoughts sometimes.
Just looking for something not inordinately expensive that would be a good starter gun for me to learn on.

Wanted to check in with here to see if I wasn’t making some big oversight or large error in terms of what I’m looking for.
 
I like the .36. Cheaper to shoot if just putting holes in paper. And steel frame only for me.
So I know that steel is stronger than brass, and that would definitely have an impact on a larger caliber, but for something like a .36 caliber, would it have a noticeable detrimental effect to the lifespan of the revolver?
 
The basic design is the same but it seems that to often the brass frame is made with economics in mine. Steel is a tiny bit lighter and Colt must of felt that it was worth it for the extra effort. You can get a lot of casual use from a brass frame. Taking care to have the pistol in correct order, timing, arbor length and such will insure a longer useful pistol. That holds true of any.
 
N.
The basic design is the same but it seems that to often the brass frame is made with economics in mine. Steel is a tiny bit lighter and Colt must of felt that it was worth it for the extra effort. You can get a lot of casual use from a brass frame. Taking care to have the pistol in correct order, timing, arbor length and such will insure a longer useful pistol. That holds true of any.
As far as I’m aware, at least for these 18- - models it’s done for historical accuracy/consistency, as the “confederate” designs have the brass frame, which is consistent with historical records as the south switched the frame material from steel to brass to save money and limited steel resources.
The “yankee” designs have an all steel frame with a brass trigger guard, but cost a bit more.

I don’t much care about either, I just want one that’s economical and reliable.
 
I have the one that you are looking at in .36 and .44. Both are great. I have had mine for many years and have never had a problem at all. Always perform just fine and are a lot of fun. Also I have the pietta .36 sheriffs model and it’s an absolutely accurate point of aim. Maybe I am just lucky!
 
,,and would this be a good fit for me,
That's the key part friend. Not the caliber, not brass or steel.
There are 3 primary entry level affordable reproduction revolvers on the market today.
The one your looking at, the 1851 Colt, the 1860 Colt and the 1858 Remington.
EACH of those have a different frame/grip style, a "fit" to the hand,, a feel/balance that is different for each user.
If at all possible, before you make your purchase, find a local shop, drive to a big box sporting goods store, search for local gun shows and try to actually handle each of those styles.
Caliber and cost per round for shooting is really a mute issue.(the difference is penny's)
What's key for shoot-ability and accuracy is the fit of the revolver to your hand.
And honestly, if your looking for survival and wilderness stuff or defense, single action cap and ball revolvers are really low on the list.
If your restricted and it's your only option, then we get it. That stuff has been beat to death on the forum and no-one cares, it's not a needed discussion. What's legal for you is your issue, there are no lawyers here.
Just get one that fit's your hand if your looking at entry level to the sport.
 
I have both brass and steel in what you’re looking at. They both shoot great. Your personal taste will come with experience, this hobby is like all the others. The main point is to have fun and learn along the way. What’s good for me may not work for you, without experience you will never know for yourself.
 
That's the key part friend. Not the caliber, not brass or steel.
There are 3 primary entry level affordable reproduction revolvers on the market today.
The one your looking at, the 1851 Colt, the 1860 Colt and the 1858 Remington.
EACH of those have a different frame/grip style, a "fit" to the hand,, a feel/balance that is different for each user.
If at all possible, before you make your purchase, find a local shop, drive to a big box sporting goods store, search for local gun shows and try to actually handle each of those styles.
Caliber and cost per round for shooting is really a mute issue.(the difference is penny's)
What's key for shoot-ability and accuracy is the fit of the revolver to your hand.
And honestly, if your looking for survival and wilderness stuff or defense, single action cap and ball revolvers are really low on the list.
If your restricted and it's your only option, then we get it. That stuff has been beat to death on the forum and no-one cares, it's not a needed discussion. What's legal for you is your issue, there are no lawyers here.
Just get one that fit's your hand if your looking at entry level to the sport.
Good point I do have quite large hands.

Not restricted in a legal sense, just looking to shake things up, and I don’t live in an area with large predators like bears or mountain lion. My .357 Magnum LCR is great for self defense, and while I can hit targets at decent ranges with it, I’d like something else to work with to keep that gun exclusively for self defense in case I somehow majorly mess up whatever I bring with me. Always keep the most important piece in working order and all.

Most threatening thing I’ve encountered was a family group of 3 coyotes. Just something that could fend the odd coyote off and get me some food in an emergency.
Also want something easily concealable in my car and not insanely expensive since there is always the chance of a crackhead seeing and stealing the gun if it’s not hidden well, so my good 12 gauge isn’t something I’d like to risk keeping in it all the time as that’s pretty hard to hide. Probably will end up getting it from the safe and bringing it whenever I go camping along with whatever pistol I end up getting, but that’s not really a gun that fits well in a backpack for a day hike.
 
So I know that steel is stronger than brass, and that would definitely have an impact on a larger caliber, but for something like a .36 caliber, would it have a noticeable detrimental effect to the lifespan of the revolver?
No idea, my opinion is steel looks like a real pistol, brass looks ‘cheap’. Colt, Remington, Ruger never made a brass. Get something that looks authentic, not much more cost.
 
So I know that steel is stronger than brass, and that would definitely have an impact on a larger caliber, but for something like a .36 caliber, would it have a noticeable detrimental effect to the lifespan of the revolver?
Brass will never last as long as steel, but it will give you plenty of good service if you'll keep the wedge tight, grease the cylinder arbor (pin), and keep grease or oil on the back of the cylinder where it rides against the frame, on the frame ring. Sorry, no pics handy, I tried to explain it so it's obvious. Most important, HAVE FUN!

Good point I do have quite large hands
You might want to look at the 1860 army based guns, the grip is a little longer than the Navies and is a bit roomier. Probably more important than brass/steel for your shooting enjoyment.
 
I would go for one of the 1858 clones. Caps cost same no matter what caliber and while there isnt much difference in ball cost or powder use the 44 brings a big boost in performance. And can always be loaded light.

Then again with cap availability like it is I would seriously consider a flint pistol in just about any common caliber from 32 up thru 50 or maybe even larger smooth bore (has to be 20ga or larger to use with multiple projectiles on game here in Fl though single ball down to 32 is ok)
 
Hello there y’all!
I’m Senate, and I’m looking to get into muzzle loading with a revolver. Got told to go here from the new members page for more answers.

I’m currently looking at a Pietta 1851 Navy Black Revolver Brass Frame with the 5 and 1/2 inch barrel in .36 caliber.
I’m looking for a cheap revolver (found a new one for $260) that’s relatively easy to shoot repeatedly on range day, but can still put out some power, while being reasonably small enough that I can take it on my camping and wilderness survival excursions.
I am a long time shooter, and have experience in some lefty muzzle loading flintlock rifles, but not muzzle loading percussion revolvers.

What would be the pros and cons of this revolver, and would this be a good fit for me, or do you have a possibly better suggestion? Would it be better to get it in .44 caliber?
Attached is a picture of the revolver.

Thanks in advance!
-Senate
If you intend to shoot it a lot, I would not get a brass frame revolver. The brass will get out of time and the gun will not work properly. The Confederates had this issue during the Civil War. When the pistols went out of time the soldier turned it in for another one. The brass was then melted and recast into another pistol. --- The Confederates did the brass to conserve steel for rifles and cannons.
 
Hello there y’all!
I’m Senate, and I’m looking to get into muzzle loading with a revolver. Got told to go here from the new members page for more answers.

I’m currently looking at a Pietta 1851 Navy Black Revolver Brass Frame with the 5 and 1/2 inch barrel in .36 caliber.
I’m looking for a cheap revolver (found a new one for $260) that’s relatively easy to shoot repeatedly on range day, but can still put out some power, while being reasonably small enough that I can take it on my camping and wilderness survival excursions.
I am a long time shooter, and have experience in some lefty muzzle loading flintlock rifles, but not muzzle loading percussion revolvers.

What would be the pros and cons of this revolver, and would this be a good fit for me, or do you have a possibly better suggestion? Would it be better to get it in .44 caliber?
Attached is a picture of the revolver.

Thanks in advance!
-Senate
Have at it! The investment is small, you get into the game, you learn, have fun shooting, ask questions and get answers.
 

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