For a variety of reasons (and eras), I went with a Loyalist Arms Doglock, since I wanted an older type weapon. What can I do to make the stock look older, without simply beating it up? The barrel will remain bright, as this piece is intended to be one that has been well maintained for over 30 years, but obvuiously the stock would not stay pristine in that time. hat can I do to "age" it so that it looks old, but well-maintained?
Aging a stock
- Thread starter Owenbrau
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That's easier to do when you're building than on a gun already finished.
I'd scrub the wear areas gently with some 4-) steel wool (VERY GENTLY) or a scotchbrite pad to lighten the color 2 shades where a gun gets rubbed a lot- under the forearm behind the ramrod pipe where you hold it with the left hand or would rest it on a rest, also the edges of the lock panels, the wrist where your right hand is on it when handling the gun, up to where your thumb is when firing, wherever you hold the gun at rest. Normal wear points. Then, assuming you don't want to mess with the finish, you might take some beeswax, mix it with soot, melt it down and let it set up. Then rub it into the areas that normally collect dirt- the buttstock behind the wrist (which you lightened), the lock mortise, any cracks or places where the inletting is imperfect. Then out on the forestock, where a gun seldom gets handled, rub some of that sooty wax. repeat this every time you use it (the sooty wax treatment in specific areas) and in a month or two you may be pleased with the results.
If that does not give you what you're looking for, some analine dyes like leather dyes will actually penetrate some finishes, and you might risk darkening the stock in "low wear" areas using a dark brown stain. You'd need to be good at feathering it in and your hands will never be the same again unless you have rubber gloves.
I'd scrub the wear areas gently with some 4-) steel wool (VERY GENTLY) or a scotchbrite pad to lighten the color 2 shades where a gun gets rubbed a lot- under the forearm behind the ramrod pipe where you hold it with the left hand or would rest it on a rest, also the edges of the lock panels, the wrist where your right hand is on it when handling the gun, up to where your thumb is when firing, wherever you hold the gun at rest. Normal wear points. Then, assuming you don't want to mess with the finish, you might take some beeswax, mix it with soot, melt it down and let it set up. Then rub it into the areas that normally collect dirt- the buttstock behind the wrist (which you lightened), the lock mortise, any cracks or places where the inletting is imperfect. Then out on the forestock, where a gun seldom gets handled, rub some of that sooty wax. repeat this every time you use it (the sooty wax treatment in specific areas) and in a month or two you may be pleased with the results.
If that does not give you what you're looking for, some analine dyes like leather dyes will actually penetrate some finishes, and you might risk darkening the stock in "low wear" areas using a dark brown stain. You'd need to be good at feathering it in and your hands will never be the same again unless you have rubber gloves.
I realize that, truly, but come on here, I'm trying to replicate decades worth. Just letting it happen is going to leave me with a brand-new looking weapon for years, a weapon that by rights is supposed to be over 60 years old for the primary era I am doing.
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Hello,
I own a 1945 M1 Garrand that undoutbly has seen military sevice. This gun has some dings but overall it is in very
good condition. There is very little difference in this sixty year old stock than the new ones I have seen at the gunshow. Mine was probably a USMC because of some the features it has. Marines take care of their stuff. How does this WWII weapon apply to your Queen Anne era gun? Tactics. A soldier in the F&I or Revolutionary era marched in the open. The tactics were linear, lines of battle, bayonet charge. The guns were stacked at camp for the night. The barrels would be polished. The soldiers would maintain their weapons just as modern times. Lets look at the WWII Korean era. Flank and maneuver. Crouching and crawling through mud, muck and heavy cover to avoid machine gun fire. My point is that the 20th century tactics are harder on weapons than 18th century tactics and my rifle looks remarkbly well. It may not have seen combat but it has to have seen some type of service. Another point, I use that M1 on occasion for hunting. If the militia was called up today and we had to meet the enemy on our soil I would grab that 60 year old Garrand. Why because it is in good shape and I can depend on it. It has been well taken care of. If it was 1777 and I had to choose a weapon and it happened to be 60 years old it would be because it was dependable and it functions well. Not some old neglected piece of junk. It would be very believable to have a 60 year old gun that looks good with very minor wear. Heck, some Civil War Reenactors use authentic weapons from the period and these 140 year old guns still look presentable and are not out of place compared to the reproductions. Some age yes just dont overdo it.
I own a 1945 M1 Garrand that undoutbly has seen military sevice. This gun has some dings but overall it is in very
good condition. There is very little difference in this sixty year old stock than the new ones I have seen at the gunshow. Mine was probably a USMC because of some the features it has. Marines take care of their stuff. How does this WWII weapon apply to your Queen Anne era gun? Tactics. A soldier in the F&I or Revolutionary era marched in the open. The tactics were linear, lines of battle, bayonet charge. The guns were stacked at camp for the night. The barrels would be polished. The soldiers would maintain their weapons just as modern times. Lets look at the WWII Korean era. Flank and maneuver. Crouching and crawling through mud, muck and heavy cover to avoid machine gun fire. My point is that the 20th century tactics are harder on weapons than 18th century tactics and my rifle looks remarkbly well. It may not have seen combat but it has to have seen some type of service. Another point, I use that M1 on occasion for hunting. If the militia was called up today and we had to meet the enemy on our soil I would grab that 60 year old Garrand. Why because it is in good shape and I can depend on it. It has been well taken care of. If it was 1777 and I had to choose a weapon and it happened to be 60 years old it would be because it was dependable and it functions well. Not some old neglected piece of junk. It would be very believable to have a 60 year old gun that looks good with very minor wear. Heck, some Civil War Reenactors use authentic weapons from the period and these 140 year old guns still look presentable and are not out of place compared to the reproductions. Some age yes just dont overdo it.
rich pierce had some real good tecniques to try. I would try to study some old guns and try to simulate them as best as you can. Remember, less is more here. You can always add but not take away. But there is no real good substitute for father time in aging guns.
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