Aging new knife blades

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Ok you knife makers,
I have several brand new Russell Green River knife blades, that I would like to etch or give an aged appearance. Any help would be appreciated!

Rick :bow:
 
If ya wanna ruin 'em real good use chlorine bleach. It'll tear 'em right up. :wink:
 
you can wrap em with a paper towel n soak it with vinager then wrap it all in saran wrap, check it every so often hours/days n then clean it up when the rust n pitting get to where ya want. You can also do it with a cheap yellow mustard it just takes a bit longer is all. Bleach will also work but that stuff is mean in my book, or completely different angle try some cold blue n clean it up some several times, gives a different kind of old look to it
 
I use an etching solution from Radio shack,mix it 50/50 with distilled water leave your blade in for several hours and it`ll etch it
 
I've always had real good results by starting out with wiping it down a few times with peroxide and letting it sit, and then heating it good with a heat gun and swabbing it down with Birchwood Casey's plumb brown, usually twice , and this will give a very antiqued look, just don't forget to neutralize it and oil it afterward.
 
just stick the blade in a potato for a couple of days comes out real good
bernie :thumbsup:
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People who used knives took care of their knives. They did not let them rust if they could help it. Also, if you look at old knives in collections, museums, or in use, they have a certain patina, but still show the metal. Those knives encountered a lot of grease and fat.

Nothing ages a knife any better than using it. Cut some greasy meat, get the blade all greasy, and then lay it up in a south window where you get the UV from the sun on it. Turn it daily and keep it greased. Go hunting. Butcher some animals. DONT LET ANYONE PUT YOUR KNIFE IN A DISHWASHER. Wash the blade off with warm water, and grease it. That is where the aged patina comes from. Potatoes and tomatoes will stain a blade. But a chemical etched blade just looks like------a chemical etched blade. The reason that we have examples of the old knives and guns in collections and museums, is that, people took care of their stuff. Knives of the time periods we wish to copy were not stainless. It did not exist then. There is nothing you can do to a stainless blade to make it look like anything other than a stainless blade.

Stocks, bags, and blades, nothing ages them more than UV radiation from the sun.

WW-au,
Now take those blades and scrub them good with a soft wet dishrag. Get a little shine on em, dont take all the color off--then grease them. Dont matter if ya use sheep fat or kangaroo fat, use some natural animal fat :rotf:
You will impress yourself with the patina that the metal takes. You have to do it all around the exposed edges of the tang too. Looks sorta counterfeit to have a black blade and shiny tang edges........ :wink:
 
A simple way is to use Laurel Mt. cold brown.two coats a day for 3, or 4 days with no carding between coats. Then wet sand the crud off with 200 grit sand paper, finish with 400 grit.It will look like a museum relic that has been cleaned up. A faster way is to cold blue the blade, then put it in Clorox for 8, to 10 minutes. Sand as above. About the same results but much faster. The cold blue reacts with the Clorox like a rocket booster.
 
I've tried several different ways as mentioned above. They all work and all give a different look when finished. Lately I have gone to using a hot vinegar soak to get a nice gray patina which seems to hold up well. The other nice thing about the vinegar etch is that it is food safe. I'm not sure the bluing or browning solutions are.
 
J>M> Assuming that you neutralize the browning and bluing solutions with water, and soap, there is nothing left on the blade that will be any more toxic than leaving the washed off vinegar, or bleach, or mustard, or oils, etc. An aged knife is perfectly safe for eating, and food preparation, provided it has been cleaned before being used for those tasks. Don't shove a knife with blood and tissue from anything, or even vegetable matter, down into a leather sheath if you expect to avoid botulism. I found the inside of knife sheaths to be particularly difficult to clean out of blood, and deacaying food or body fluids.
 
paulvallandigham said:
J>M> Don't shove a knife with blood and tissue from anything, or even vegetable matter, down into a leather sheath if you expect to avoid botulism. I found the inside of knife sheaths to be particularly difficult to clean out of blood, and deacaying food or body fluids.

:doh:
That's a real good point. I've never really thought about it, but it makes me want to go home and clean and spray out all my sheaths with Lysol!
Pat
 
Don't do anything radical!

I am occasionally approached by acquaintenance who ask me to sharpen their knives. Sometimes they hand me knife in a sheath that has not been out since they finished gutting their deer the prior fall! The stench is remarkable at best! I toss the sheath in soap and water to soak while I go to work first washing off the blade, and cleaning it up, and then sharpen it for the friend. I also spend some time telling them how to use, and HOW NOT TO USE their knife, so they don't dull it.

I use a three step process to sharpening knives, BTW. I learned it first from The Razor Edge Sharpening Book, and later, from Roger Needham, who sells stones at Friendship every year, right near the main entrance. He puts out a wonderful 2 sided, legal size instruction sheet that really does cover all the information you need to know about edge angles, care, and sharpening. I put a " Supported edge on the blades, by first putting a shallow bevel to the edge, using a medium or " Washita " stone, and then raise the edge up to put a wider angle, but a finer edge using my long Black Arkansas Stone. The final step is to use a strop to remove the burrs, and aligned the edge of the blade so it cuts in a straight line, without waves.

Stay away from bones and that knife will stay sharp for years. My friends have remarked about that. Where they were lucky to gut and skin out One deer with the knife before I sharpened it, they now are gutting and skinning 5-6 deer with the same knife.

I use the spray nozzle on the faucet to work out the crud that remains inside the sheath after it soaks with soap and water. I may use a .22 cleaning rod, with a rag on it, to go down the now soft sheath and wipe out more of the dried blood and crud. I Like your idea of using Lysol. I never did that before, but its on my list to try. I am only concerned that some of the chemicals in that product may dry out the leather unnecessarily, causing deterioration problems to accelerate. For sure, if you have that leather sheath in water very long, dry it over night, and then hit it with some saddle soap, and/or neetsfoot oil to recondition the leather again. I had one sheath that was so stinky with blood and guts, that we seriously considered cutting the stitching to open it up. Instead, I left it soaking over night in the soap and water, used a fine brush to go inside ( One of those bottle neck brushes) to pull out the crud, but most of it all came out with the rinse, because the over night soak with soap and water had rehydrated the blood and tissues enough that they lost their stickiness. I was very generous with my neetsfoot oil on that sheath, however, after we dried it out.
 
I used my G-R blade to cut up some horseradish. That didn't rust it but it did age it pretty well. After I saw what it did to my G-R, I'm glad I didn't use one of management's good kitchen knives.
 
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My new knife I made after cold blue applied & 5 minutes in a bleach bath afterwards. Cleaned it up with 400 grit wet sandpaper. Cleaned & oiled. :hmm:

BTW this is steel from a crosscut saw blade that Pitchy cut out for me with his new toy (a plasma cutter) and sent to me! :thumbsup:

Davy
 
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