Alternative Projectiles - Wooden Balls

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roundball

Cannon
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Found them!

They're inexpensive, and unlike wax bullets there's no melting or "casting" to do.

Heavier than wax so they should be accurate.

Catch them in a box of old towels and and they should be reusable over and over.

For example, the 9/16" balls should be .562.5 if my math is correct...should patch into a .58cal just fine...if I can decide on a size I'll run some tests!
[url] http://www.craftparts.com/mall/Balls.asp[/url]

:thumbsup:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Blizzard of '93 said:
heck they would do for squirrels and such!
I ordered some .375s for the .40cal, and some .562s for the .58cal...probably won't get here in time for this Saturday morning range trip so it'll be the following weekend before I can try them
 
Please follow up with a range report. It sounds like an interesting project. I'd like to hear how it goes.
Regards,
Taylor in Texas
 
texan said:
Please follow up with a range report. It sounds like an interesting project. I'd like to hear how it goes.
Regards,
Taylor in Texas

Sure will...my interest first with wax balls, now with wooden balls, is to see if I can find a consistently accurate, low cost, low power, close range, alternative projectile that could be used from a muzzleloader...ie: in the back yard, in a large basement, or driveway-into-the-garage type of situation that would also be far safer than if using a lead ball...example: 20grns 3F at 50 feet or something like that...worse thing that happens is I keep getting new first hand experience in the world of muzzleloading :grin:


"Flintlocks.......The Real Deal"
(Claims that 1:48" twists won't shoot PRBs accurately are old wives tales!!)
 
You know, there's actually a little bit of historical context for wood. One of Lewis and Clark's men was separated from the party for a while, but with powder and no bullets. He was darn near starved by the time they caught up with him, but he had managed to knock off a rabbit by loading wood in his ML. Can't remember the exact words, but it left me with the impression that he had whittled sticks to fit.
 
Japan used wood bullets in their rifles near the end of the war they were out of metal. I think it was mostly close range shooting in the South Pacific jungles.
 
Anyone know what would fit a 54cal? If they work for roundball I might have to get some of the 9/16" for my 58cal. I know we eventually will find an alternative projectile. It just takes time.
 
You really got me thinking, Roundball. For many, many years I loaded RBs (first Hornady swaged, then hand-cast with wheelweights) in 38 special and 44 special cases for pistol practice and plinking. A couple of grains of Bullseye in the case gave the balls enough whomp to pass through a 1" spruce board at 25 feet, but not much more.

It was a neat solution for quick and easy practice rounds, and with friends we shot many, many thousands. Didn't even have to resize the cases for reloading.

The advantage was, as you point out, to be able to shoot in places other than the range. We live out in the country, but with neighbors, and these low noise loads were better than regular loads for shooting at home.

Advantages and disadvantages:

Velocity was low enough you could see the ball flying through the air. They were accurate as sin. Shooting a hole in the board, then shooting at the hole was our usual approach. At 25 feet you had to shoot a new target hole pretty often, because the first hole gets larger quick and the "target" gets too easy.

We learned real quick not to shoot at a knot in the board. The ball would bounce straight back with enough velocity to hurt. And almost without fail, it would hit you right in the forehead before you had time to duck. With wood balls or anything else, I'd expect rebound to be an even bigger potential and problem.
 
I agree with Brownbear: Rebounding, or bouncing back of hard, but light weight balls becomes a real danger. Always wear eye protection.

I chose not to use wooden projectiles because of this reason. I think using parafin bullets in pistol casings is much safer, and you can get by using only primers. See Bill Jordan's Book, No Second Place Winner, for details on how to make these.

This is not going to be a solution for people wanting to shoot their ML rifles at home, I understand. If you are going to shoot wooden balls, then hang a piece of carpeting or an old blanket to catch them so they don't bounce around. Set your paper targets a foot or so in front of carpet or blanket, so that the balls pass through, and then hit the backstop.

We used a heavy blanket to catch the pellets for our junior rifle team. It also works with BBs in BB gun clubs. You can use this same thing to catch those parafin slugs, but I was practicing speed shooting at a PPC target, so I put a target on a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood, then covered it with mylar (plastic) so that the paper target was never damaged, and the wax would splat against the heavy plastic, and could be scraped or wiped off easily between shoots. Scoring was a snap. An old blanket on the floor at the bottom of my target caught most of the wax, with could be easily folded up in the blanket, and poured into the trash can for disposal. I later added blankets on the sides, to catch the spatter that went sidways. Today, I would simply get another 4 x 8 sheet of 1/4" ply, and cut it in half and stand the two pieces on the sides of the target to deflect the splatter back and down into my blanket. I still think that using an OS shot card over a few grains of powder, followed by a cast wax ball and held in place by another OS card would give sufficient accuracy in a ML rifle. But, you have to seal the gases with a wad of some kind- maybe 2 or 3 OS cards, to get all the velocity out of a small powder charge. I would expect the ball to be squeezed down to an oval slug in the process, but it should be accurate enough at short ranges. I also think that mixing 1 part old motor oil to 3-4 parts of wax will make a more easily maleable wax slug, that will stay together better in the bore, and still shoot fine at short ranges, without having to use more than a few grains of powder.
 
I'll do my experimenting at my range first, and if it results in a successful low powder charge projectile at close range, I figure I could use it in my back yard occasionally just to practice 'shooting form', without having to drive a 60 mile round trip to my range...heavily wooded, no houses, etc.

Figured I'd use a cardboard target holder, then a large heavy beach towel hanging vertically a couple feet behind the target..balls could hit the heavy beach towel and drop down into a large cardboard box for reuse...if I need to slow it down some I could just add another layer or so of carboard to the target holder...we'll see :wink:
 
Sounds perfect to me.

While at your range, set up your chrony and answer this question for us: Just how fast will 100 grains of FF launch one of those wooden balls? :shocked2:
 
redwing said:
Japan used wood bullets in their rifles near the end of the war they were out of metal. I think it was mostly close range shooting in the South Pacific jungles.




Nothing like WW2 urban legend. Those were wooden bulleted blanks, not meant for use against "real" targets, the bullet disintegrates a few feet from the muzzle. Wooden bulleted blanks are to assist in feeding blanks in automatic weapons but, of course, can be used in bolt action rifles as well. They have been used by most, if not all, militaries for training. I have several hundred rounds in 7.9mm Mauser. Without a shredder attached to the muzzle, they can be dangerous out to about 25 feet due to splinters but not anywhere near fatal.
 
Just received shipping details that the wooden balls will be here Friday, if so, I'll range test them Saturday morning.

I ordered .375s for the .40cal, and .562s for the .58cal.

Which ones should I range test Saturday...and why?
 
Were we in the same class at War College? Maybe you missed the class Tactical And Technical Trends #49 2 pages Item #13499 Japan WW11.

Japanese Wooden Bullets and Inverted Ball Ammunition #13514. They used hard wood bullets intended for Grenade Launchers for CQC in the South Pacific. I think the Urban legend is your wooden blanks arn't blanks but grenade launchers. :nono:
 
The Swedes shot wooden bullets in their 6,5x55 Mausers for training. However they had a shredder screwed onto the muzzle to shred them. They did help simulate loading, firing, and recoil though.

Or how about a wooden gun to shoot the wooden balls in?
Link
 
Roundball, I think you should try the 58cal out with the wooden balls so I can know if they work and get some if they do. :grin:
Also, the 58cal is more expensive to shoot so it would be nice to find a cheap way to plink with it and not spend a lot of money on lead and powder.

P.S. When you get those you should weigh them. I wonder how much they weigh. And also, how thick of a patch do you think it will need?
 
redwing said:
Were we in the same class at War College? Maybe you missed the class Tactical And Technical Trends #49 2 pages Item #13499 Japan WW11.

Japanese Wooden Bullets and Inverted Ball Ammunition #13514. They used hard wood bullets intended for Grenade Launchers for CQC in the South Pacific. I think the Urban legend is your wooden blanks arn't blanks but grenade launchers. :nono:




:hmm: Sorry, I forgot about my reply to this thread. As far as the Japanese wooden bulleted cartridge, I am not absolutely certain about their use, so you may well be right, I will need to check my references. The German 7.9mm wooden bulleted cartridges are indeed blanks not intended for any other use than training. They are officially listed as "Platz 33" (Platzpatrone Model 33) or Blank cartridge Mod. 33 (wood bullet). The grenade launching cartridge used by the German military is Treibpatrone für Gewehrgranate or Rifle grenade launching cartridge - a non-bulleted blank like that used by the British military. As I said, I will check my resources for the documentation of the Japanese wooden bulleted cartridge, it is possible that you could be right.
 
Wooden balls arrived today...will test them in a .58cal first thing in the morning.

The 3/8"(.375) I got for the .40cal mic'ed very consistently around .375, plus or minus .001".

The 9/16"(.562) I got for the .58cal mic'ed with a surprising amount of variance...I only mic'ed a half dozen but they were anywhere from .545 - .562.

Also to my surprise the weight was lighter than I expected...I thought a wooden ball that size would have some weight but they were as light as the wax balls were...ie: the .600" wax balls averaged 22grns, the smaller .562" wooden balls average 15grns.

So we'll see what they'll do in the morning...
 
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