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An affordable barrel?

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Halloo the fire. Just checking with some of the usual suspects, it would seem the Green Mountain 1-inch octagon .62 smoothbore barrel at $130 would be a good buy for a number of pre-flint projects, although I am not sure how authentic octagonal barrels are on the earlier pieces.
Any comments gentlefolk?
 
Bill:

Nice to see you found this place!

Halloo the fire. Just checking with some of the usual suspects, it would seem the Green Mountain 1-inch octagon .62 smoothbore barrel at $130 would be a good buy for a number of pre-flint projects, although I am not sure how authentic octagonal barrels are on the earlier pieces.
Any comments gentlefolk?

An octogonal barrels were made way back into the late Handgonne era. You could make a nice Matchlock, or even a Handgonne with one.

Hhhhmmmmmmmmmm........ Now here is a thought, take an octogonal barrel, drill the touch hole on the top, put it on a crude stock, and have a 15th Century style long barrelled Handgonne! ::
 
The Mary Rose pattern was a swamped octagon but with narrower flats top and sides. Matchlock muskets tended to be tapered octagon to round. OTOH a straight sided octagon would be fine for a German wheel-lock or a Tschinke perhaps? :m2c:
 
Good morning
Last summer I picked up a 12 gauge shotgun barrell, from Track of the Wolf, for $28 including shipping. After proof testing, with 100 grains and three balls, we built it into a very primitive matchlock. Nice show piece and it fires extremely fast.
I also got three pounds of saltpeter on ebay to make match. Soak cotton cord from walmart, braided, in a teaspoon full in a cup of water.
Captain
 
Good morning
Last summer I picked up a 12 gauge shotgun barrell, from Track of the Wolf, for $28 including shipping. After proof testing, with 100 grains and three balls, we built it into a very primitive matchlock. Nice show piece and it fires extremely fast.
I also got three pounds of saltpeter on ebay to make match. Soak cotton cord from walmart, braided, in a teaspoon full in a cup of water.

OOHHHH!!!! Do you have any pictures? :D
 
Cap'n Road Kill, Pictures, please, please, please. I mentioned matchlock to a non-shooting buddy, and he suggested used shotgun barrel just yesterday !
 
I've used seamless tubing bought at metal supply shops. used 1" with 5/8" bore proffed 300 grains with 2 round balls works fine. have 1"x .69 cal.x 36", 3/4" tap works perfectly, have proofed these the same.. email me we will talk. Chuck [email protected]
 
You can find some reasonable barrels at Numrich, just do a search for barrel blank or barrel blanks. I've bought three different ones from them. :m2c:
 
While on this subject ,

What are typical lenght of french 1600-1660
wheel lock and matchlock ? Outside shape ?

How do you breach a 12 ga barrel?

Henry
 
The correct profile for early guns was determined by the way the blacksmiths forged them.

Traditionally there are five ways to do this...

Method the First
-Get a flat strip of wrought iron (not mild steel, it doesn't weld as well).
-Use a fuller and a grooved anvil to give it a U-shaped section, then gradually form it into a hollow tube with an overlapping seam.
-Carefully weld along the seam (forge welding, not arc!) using a polished steel rod (mandrel) to stop the tube collapsing unde the blows of the hammer
-True up the outside of the barrel as much as posible, to save filing. Using just a flatter and a hammer, it is easy to get an accurate square or octagon shape. If you have a set of fullers, you could make a round or octagon to round barrell. Some early gonnes had octagon to hexa-decagon (16-sided). Hexagons can also be made with just a flatter and hammer, but it is a LOT harder. I have only ever seen two hex-barreled guns - and one was japanese. They are rare.
-Of course, if you draw out your barrel on the mandrell, you can get a tapered or swamped barrel, but getting the flats on the swamped barrel without filing would be difficult

Method the Second
-Make several shorter tubes as detailed about, but each with a different wall thickness.
-Use the thickest as the breech, the thinest at the muzzle.
-Flair one end of each tube and weld them end to end.
-Finish as above

Method the Third
-Take two thick strips of wrought iron.
-Fuller a long grove down the middle of each
-Weld both pieces together to make a hollow tube, using the mandrel as above
-Finish the barrel as above

Method the Fourth
-Take a strip of iron (or damascus made from wrought iron mixed with steel)
-Wind it around the mandrell to make a spiral tube with overlapping edges.
-Carefully forge weld along the overlap
-Finish barrel as above

The fifth method is to cast the barrel in bronze, in which case you can have any weird shape you want :)

Back to the subject, tapered and swamped and octagon-round barrels were used for better balance and to save expensive iron. They look historically accurate (for post 1470-ish) but tend to be more expensive, and take a lot of skill to inlet into a stock.

I have seen a lot of "ordinary" matchlock muskets with tapered "rough round" barrels, but the finer decorated ones tend to have tapered octagon barrels, some with a raised ring or octagon on the muzzle

A bit of carefull filing should turn a big beefy barrel like the one you mentioned into anything you want... emphasis on the careful :)
 

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