...and another 1847 Walker question

[nkbj]

I like to use .45 pistol molds with the bullet bases sized to slip into the chambers.
That cuts down some on the available powder space. And, stretching out the recoil impulse means the loading lever doesn't drop down.

 

[vlntn]

That sounds like an excellent idea, where might I get said molds? I've been buying .454 round balls from Cabelas, which work well for my New model army made by Pietta but it sticks in my craw paying that much for a bunch of lead haha

 

[nkbj]

I just take a .45 ACP or .45 Colt mold, mold from straight soft lead, then size the back half of the slugs to slip into the chambers. That assures straight alignment and leaves the front big to shear on the chamber mouths the same as round ball.

By the way, the bullets in the picture are from RCBS mold #45-225-CAV but there's just all kinds of molds to choose from.

 

[vlntn]

Sorry for this question but I'm new to Black powder shooting and have never cast a bullet before so I don't understand how to "size the back half“. I understand what you're referring to and how it would sit into the chamber and allow it enough room to clear for the loading lever, just not how.

 

[nkbj]

With Lyman or RCBS type bullet sizer press there are interchangeable dies for various bullet diameters that the bullets get pushed vertically downwards into, base first. I choose a die of a diameter just slightly less than the chambers and then when pushing the bullets down into the die, just go halfway or so.

By the way, in the mid 70's when first starting out I rolled a long bevel onto the base of slugs so they would slip into the chambers. Used a couple of pieces of counter top material samples to roll them. There was a grainy finish on the back of the material to grip the construction adhesive. It gripped the soft lead real well, letting me bear down on it to make the lead move.

If you ever run upon a .45ACP mold with a bevel base design, it might be a winner right as they drop from the mold blocks. Just for an example, below is a Lyman #452066 that I found to work well in .44 Dragoons with no sizing needed.

 

[bang]

Would a .454 round ball work well in the walker revolver.

.457

 

[TFoley]

That sounds like an excellent idea, where might I get said molds? I've been buying .454 round balls from Cabelas, which work well for my New model army made by Pietta but it sticks in my craw paying that much for a bunch of lead haha

Start casting and saving money.

 

[Mknight702]

For target work I load my Walker with 20gn Swiss 3F then fill the rest of the chamber with semolina or similar, then top with a.457 cast ball or occasionally Johnson and Dow bullet. I seem to remember that cylinders have a slight taper so unless you backfill with something the ball will be more tightly sized the deeper it is set. This will have impacts on accuracy.

 

[Crow Choker]

See this thread originally was started back in 2006, no matter, if information is good, still good info. You can stuff 60 grains of black powder, preferably FF or FFF in the cylinders of a modern day repo Walker but I've found that 50-52 grains works the best. Larger does such as 60 will not burn completely and has no real performance needs such as trying to down a Mexican or Commanche horse. Try 60 in close to a white paper target or if you live in snow county, fire over new snow. You'll see alot of unburned/partially unburned grains of black. That long barrel on a Walker (or even a Dragoon) isn't long enough to have a complete burn. You're just wasting your powder.

Read an article some years back that FF has a slower pressure curve than FFF and has a 'more harmonious outcome' in large loads such as high 40's and 50 plus grains. Article advised is true to any black powder loadings. I use FF over FFF when reloading 44 Colt and 45 Colt brass cartridges. Have noticed less sharp recoil. Article also showed that using F in large bore cappers such as a Dragoon or Walker (and especially in the Navy and Army calibers) was not recommended and there was no advantage to doing so. I did a test with my Walker and two of my Dragoons comparing FF and FFF and for my style of shooting (alot of point and 25 yards or less) there was no real difference I could see.

Anything less than say 48-50 in a Walker or less than 40-42 grains in a Dragoon is to light (Mouse Faxt, powder puff loads-whatever handle ya want to call em), a waste of time. The Walker/Dragoons were meant for taking authority. I've heard of some guys loading their black powder revolvers heavy for attention at the range, try and see how much shock and awe to impress others or themselves, but those types usually fad away. My 44 caliber 1860 and 1851 get around 30 FFF and my 36 caliber 61 and 51 Navys around 18-20. Use round ball's only. I have tried conical's but they're a pain to get started right and am happy with the rounds. The one guy (nkbj) who posted about using 45 caliber cast bullets for 45's and then sizing the bottom half or so, that is interesting. Might have to try that just to see, I have several 45 ACP molds.

 

[Smokey Plainsman]

OP: do not fire that gun with a full 60 grain load UNLESS you have fixed the notorious arbor issue with these Uberti pistols. A new set of upgraded nipples are also in order.

Do some research, these guns are not set up properly from the factory to endure extended 60 grain shooting and need some work to get there.

With all that being said, you bought a Walker. It deserves Walker loads. If you’re going to be firing mouse farts, just get an 1860 Army and save yourself a few lbs of steel to haul about.

 

[Crow Choker]

Smokey Plainsman-I don't know if you noticed or not, I didn't until I noticed it almost at bottom of page 2 when another member advised it, but the OP originally started this post back in Feb of 2006. No matter, good info is good info. Fifty (50) grains, maybe one or two over is a good stout and accurate load in a Walker. Anymore alot of it just blows out the end of the barrel unburned. I use around 42-43 in my Dragoons.