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Another Help me decide, I'm new to BP and Flintlocks post!

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I have the Lyman 54 Deerstalker and I would not trade it for the two others as I have other rifles for target etc. However the Deerstalker puts three shots into 1 1/2 inches at 70 yards with round ball and that is fine with me. The 1\48 also allows the 54 slug, which is just as accurate and great for elk out to 125 yards. The Lyman 57 SML sight allows the switching between round ball and slug extremely easy. The shorter barrel is exactly what is needed in the deer/elk woods. Especially in a blind and other tight places. Lyman made the Deerstalker for hunters. They put some thought into building a rifle that would be preferred by hunters. I am one of them.
 
For what you describe as your use, I would vote for the Trade Rifle as many others have. I have one as well as a GPR . Love them both but the GPR is noticeably heavier to tote around all day. The Trade Rifle is good looking without being flashy and shoots round balls just fine. Any of the three will serve you well.
 
@Sparkitoff Thanks for taking the time to provide so much information. Some good points and I had already given thought to the mass-produced lock and going the Deerstalker route would cover the cost of upgrading to an RPL L&R lock I believe which I've heard great things about and specifically good reviews/reports of putting them in Deerstalkers.
 
Thanks @Crow-Feather I am close to pulling the trigger on the Deerstalker in 54. Since you have that gun and are having good results with it what would you recommend for flints, powder, patches and RB's?

I was thinking of starting with three pounds of 2F and 1 pound of 4F for powder. For RB's I was looking at the Hornady LB0372 Swaged .535's and then just getting some pillow ticking from Walmart or the local fabric store. Not sure exactly what flints to get.
 
Question-rambling thoughts
If you are looking primarily for a BP rifle for hunting and not concerned so much about appearance pc/hc why not go Percussion as the learning curve and reliability is much less a factor and when you are ready for the next level of rifle you can go semi/custom rock lock
 
Great question! I don't want to have to rely on trying to find caps. Harder to find right now, just like primers. I originally was just looking to get an inline, but quickly realized I wanted to shoot RB and not be reliant on having to have enough primers. Led me to percussion next, but then to flint as it eliminates the having to rely on being able to find something at a store more.
 
Lyman Great Plains .54 Caliber Flintlock
Barrel length 32" Twist 1:60

I am looking for a rifle to use hunting, mainly whitetail deer and with PRB's most likely as I'd like to cast my own for both cost savings and self-reliance.

There ya go. My 2 cents.
 
@Dan_273

Research whats involved with fitting a RPL lock. It's NOT a drop in by any stretch of the imagination. You rarely hear gripes about the Investarms lock so that's what I'd stick with,
 
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@NorthFork Good to know! I had heard that about the Investarms locks which is what led me to look at them over others in that same price-range, etc...
 
I have been down this road before and this is just my opinion:
I wanted to get into flintlocks for hunting at the lowest entry cost. I tried to get the best value for the money like anyone would. Frankly, I was disappointed in many ways and in the long run ended up spending more money to get the value rifle right than if I just got a better one to begin with. Once I was done tinkering with the rifle, I still wasnt in love with it and ended up with a different one anyway and took a small loss on the original.

The patent breach system is a mass manufacturing necessity (my opinion). It reduced efficiency by its nature. You have to get powder to go down into the smaller chamber. Maybe easy on first shot, clean dry barrel. Next shot you have crud, moisture and minute deposits throughout the barrel. You pour powder and it is supposed to get down the barrel and back into that small chamber without hanging up. My experience is that it's hard to get the patent breach full after subsequent shots. The patent breach is hard to clean too. Then the flash hole is tiny. It's easy to drill it out. Exactly how much though? A lot of information points towards 1/16th. I found that is not so in every case. It might be a tad small yet or it might be too big. Then the frizzen. In some cases with "factory" rifles the springs are not adjusted properly for good spark, easy opening or the hardness is in question. The "factory" or Importer warranty is just to replace the part. They're not spending time tuning it or making it right, just switching things out without really tuning anything. You have to check the **** angle. Then, there are many reports of concern about wood-to-metal fit. Sights are not my first choice for hunting but that's a personal thing.

If you are patient, have realistic expectations, don't mind tinkering and can afford to have down time for your rifle then go ahead with a factory rifle. They are better than ever and the Lyman's by Pedersoli got initial rave reviews. Me, I'd rather find a used proven rifle. If you can talk to the owner of a used Lyman or anything else you want and trust the seller you can find one that has already been tweaked or has never had a problem. Even better is if you can try before you buy.

I realize this sounds negative and to some extent it is. I read everything I could about flintlock shooting, shot with a mentor and his rifles and went to town trying it on my own. CVA Hawken flintlock, Traditions Pennsylvania, T/C Renegade and Lyman GPR (all .54 caliber and flintlock). I spent more time frustrated and puzzled and lost the enjoyment. Then I figured out the advice aforementioned. I got a T/C Hawken .54 from an owner that replaced the barrel with a GM. He let me shoot it pretty much all day until I decided to buy it. It was reliable, accurate and had good features. I figured out it was a little heavy and unbalanced when I started to hunt with it. That's just a personal preference. Finally found a semi-custom rifle at around $1000 and haven't looked back. Instant ignition, extremely accurate, well balanced, long flint life, good trigger pull, lightweight, excellent hunting sights and the lock has been tuned. The lock is a popular brand so parts or repair are available.

The enthusiasm that you have to get started with your new rifle is fantastic. Please don't let that make your decision short and potentially regrettable. Maybe make a pros and cons list of what you want compared to what you get or "prefered" features vs. "compromise" features. Ask lots of questions here and elsewhere. I wish you all the best and look forward to exciting reports of your progress!

I asked the lock-maker what they recommended for flints and stuck with that. They've been fantastic. One last a long time in my rifle. I would start with at least a dozen. You are going to need black powder. A lot of rifles will charge and prime with 3F and work great. Some prefer 4F prime and some may prefer 2F charge. Again, if you can talk to a previous owner you can determine this ahead of time. Otherwise, trial and error is the only way to figure that out. You will need to order powder or find a good source. You might order one pound 4F, and two each of 3F and 2F. Then you can figure out the load and prime situation for your new rifle. Once you do, one more order will get you a lot of powder and about 87+ shots per pound of powder with a hunting load. For prime a pound will give you 1750 shots or more. You should also see what the lock manufacturer says about lead or leather for the **** and possibly try both of those. It seems leather is more popular but I have a lock where the manufacturer spent time listening to me on the phone and told me switch to lead. That made ignition better with a lot more sparks.

Good luck!
Wow!
 
Well, I just pulled the trigger on the .54 Flintlock Deerstalker! Excited to get it!

Thank you all for all the input and information you gave me. It really helped to steer me on this. The GPR was a tough one to not get with all of the recommendations for it, but the more I read and learned I decided that Lord willing the plan I have is to get the Deerstalker, shoot it, hunt with it, and down the road build a nice, more PC/HC correct kit when I know more about what I want in a BP rifle and will have the time and space to do so properly.

Now on to figuring out what flints, powder, and RB's to get along with the other accessories I'll "need" to get started.

Open to suggestions/information on that as well, especially from those of you familiar with that rifle, or similar.
 
I don't have a 54, but for other things a good place to start is flints from Track of the Wolf, there are several choices and many swear by the English but others will work. You will need to get real black powder either locally or order it. Graf's, Powder Inc, Midway and others are sources to order. Keep in mind you will have to pay a hazmat fee and generally shipping. The more you order the more you can spread those costs over each pound. Many here use 3f, but I like 2f in larger bores. If you use 3f it will also work for priming. 2f will work, but may be slightly slower. Patch material will also be needed too. I use pillow ticking from the local fabric store and cut at the muzzle mostly. Hows this for a start.Oh, if this is a first muzzle loader don't forget cleaning jags and ball pulling screws etc.
 
Thanks @Kansas Jake I'll check those sites for powder, had been looking at it on Powder Valley and was looking at getting 2F for the charge and 4F for the primer. Had also looked at TOW for flints, just need to figure out which one to go with, as well as the size. Also looked at October country for tools, flasks, etc...

Will keep researching it!
 
Thanks, both good ideas! I could see store-bought precut patches getting expensive with BP!
 
Thanks @Crow-Feather I am close to pulling the trigger on the Deerstalker in 54. Since you have that gun and are having good results with it what would you recommend for flints, powder, patches and RB's?

I was thinking of starting with three pounds of 2F and 1 pound of 4F for powder. For RB's I was looking at the Hornady LB0372 Swaged .535's and then just getting some pillow ticking from Walmart or the local fabric store. Not sure exactly what flints to get.
Thanks @Crow-Feather I am close to pulling the trigger on the Deerstalker in 54. Since you have that gun and are having good results with it what would you recommend for flints, powder, patches and RB's?

I was thinking of starting with three pounds of 2F and 1 pound of 4F for powder. For RB's I was looking at the Hornady LB0372 Swaged .535's and then just getting some pillow ticking from Walmart or the local fabric store. Not sure exactly what flints to get.

Below is my 70 yard target from bench using regular iron sights. (Ordered my Lyman 57 SML today) I use 90 grains of Goex 2f with my home made .530 diameter round ball. I use regular pillow ticking but to get the sizing out, I put it in the wash at least 3-4 times. It should mike out at around .022 thick. Thinner than that doesn't work for me. I use moose milk made from 20% Ballistol, water and a dash of liquid dish soap. For hunting, I switch to the T/C bore butter on the patch. Because of the weight difference, I couldn't use the same sights for my slug. (T/C's hunting bullet) When I did shoot them, I had similar results. Check your patches for cutting from sharp threads. It will stop after so many shots. It should never burn through the patch, if it does, its not wet enough. If you can, get a metal range rod with a bore protector. It makes loading easier and more consistent. Consistent compression on the powder does help with accuracy. You might see people bouncing their wooden rods on the ball/powder charge. I believe that it does help make the load consistent. If you do go with flint. Put the priming charge next to the vent hole when shooting. It has been proven to be faster. Also use a feather or some device to keep the vent hole clean of powder when loading. A flint is as fast as a cap if everything works right. Some use lead to hold the flint instead of leather as they say it gives better spark. I prefer the german cut flints and the english flints. Well, you will get advice from others and their ideas are just as good as mine. Mine work for me. Some of the others might work better for you. That is the great part of this forum. More than one way to skin a cat, and they are all listed here.

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