Another Jukar question

[Pioneer flinter]

Hey everyone, I see a lot questions about Jukars lately. I have one I picked up a while back as a winter project gun it seemed to be in good shape the bore looked good as far as I could tell with a good flashlight being a 45 my bore light would not fit it has a honey colored stock that is just plain ugly the metal is in good shape. my question is when I started cleaning the bore, it was already clean, but I noticed about 4 to 6 inches in front of the drum it seems someone short stroked a ball and the patch is loose for a couple of inches and then tightens up again. there is know evidence on the flats of a bulge. do you think it will mess with the accuracy with round balls and a tight patch? thank you all very much.

 

[ohio ramrod]

f there is no sign of a bulge, or filing one out. It should be safe to shoot and should not effect accuracy. Since you already have the gun try it and see! :hmm:

 

[hanshi]

:thumbsup: +1

 

[Pioneer flinter]

right now its in pieces I am refinishing the stock.

 

[Zonie]

IMO, you are right. The barrel is slightly bulged.

I am sure it is still safe to shoot but the only way to find if the accuracy is poor is to shoot it.

Sometimes, a bulged barrel will cause the patch to "blow" or burn thru where it contacts the bore.
A tighter ball/patch combination can sometimes fix this. Sometimes not. :hmm:

 

[Pioneer flinter]

Thanks Zonie that's what I thought.

 

[Rick Son]

Redoing the wood on mine also right now,the two piece has pins in it and all seems good.If a barrell is unloaded you can blow throught it right?
Also i'm just going to do a black paint job on it,what would be the best paint and or stain to use??
Everything has a real nice fit and flush wood to metal,i will polish the brass and let it go back on it's own.I'm going easy on the stripper and small area at a time,comin off pretty easy and mine was also uglier that a square chicken but the eggs are great :wink:

 

[mooman76]

Yes you should be able to blow through it if unloaded. It could also be clogged with gunk. Compare your ram rod to the outside of the barrel and then insert it. You should have an idea how far the ram rod goes in to see if it has a load in it. Most ram rods are cut to the inside depth of the barrel so when inserted it would be close to flush. This isn't always so but usually.

 

[Rick Son]

Thanks,it is flush and i can blow through it~Apreciate it!The barrel is very clean i guess alot of these rifles were never shot.

 

[mooman76]

Some people got them and after they found out how much work was involved and the slowness of loading and shooting, they decide it's not for them. It's not a big deal to me and all part of why myself and others like it.

 

[Zonie]

If your going to all the work to strip the wood, why would you want to paint it? Seems like a waste of time and effort to me. :hmm:

If it were mine I would throughly sand the wood after stripping it and then I would stain it.

Oil based stains like Minwax work very poorly on the beechwood the stock is made from. If the stain says to thin or clean with paint thinner, you don't want to use it.

A alcohol or water based stain like Birchwood Casey Walnut works very well and it doesn't cover up what little grain the wood has.
Most Sporting good stores, some hardware stores and gun stores carry Birchwood Casey Walnut stain.
I highly recommend it.

If you stain the wood, any good finishing oil like Tung oil or Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil will give it a very nice finish like you see on this CVA shotgun kit I refinished.

 

[Rick Son]

That do look nice!One reason for painting it black with rub marks is becuase when i watched the Alamo the rifle Billy Bob Thorton was using looked black to me with that used look,i liked it,afte watching it again it was just dark colored,the did some research about painted ones and i think it was Rogers raiders that had blue ones..Just being different mostly.
Maybe i will do it in Native American colors with some rawhide around it somewhere :grin:

 

[Loyalist Dave]

A alcohol or water based stain like Birchwood Casey Walnut works very well and it doesn't cover up what little grain the wood has.
Most Sporting good stores, some hardware stores and gun stores carry Birchwood Casey Walnut stain.
I highly recommend it.

Fiebing's Leather dye is also very good for stocks.

Rawhide was normally done as a repair, and it sometimes gets sticky when damp, and can get stinky when too damp.

LD

 

[Rick Son]

Good thought on the rawhide idea,didn't think of that.Good idea on the dye to,i was lookin at some in the garage last night and wondered about that.

I got trhe stock all sanded now for the forearm,but what do i use to get those pins out,another something but smaller,don't think i have anything that small to tap them out..

 

[necchi]

Finish nail with the point broke or filed off, a section of coat hanger, a large needle stolen from the wife with the point broke off,,

 

[Rick Son]

Boy what's wrong with my thinker,finish nail i got :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :hatsoff:

 

[Rick Son]

P.S. That is a mighty fine shootgun,wish i had one,those are and were a very usefull tool from what i have read..Found one once in a friends antique store but it was pretty thrashed.

 

[zimmerstutzen]

Second on the Fiebing's leather dye

A friend wanted a black stock, so it would look like ebony. he painted the stock with India Ink and then finished with tung oil. Nice black, if that it what you want.

 

[S.Kenton]

You can also use a small allen wrench ( 5/16 is the most common size) to help tap your pins out.

 

[RADeO]

You can also use a small allen wrench ( 5/16 is the most common size) to help tap your pins out.

I'm thinking you maybe meant .050", not really 5/16"?