Another new guy-lil experience

[scblkpowder]

Hi folks, I'm new to this site and very impressed. My grandfather was an enthusiast and I shot with him some but basically they set me up to fire so I'm starting to study up. I've bought a CVA used and read that there were some years when they had a few QC problems. The markings I've found are 'Connecticut Valley Arms' and looks like 'irc' and black powder only .45 cal. There is some slight rust. It's nice to look at but I'm wondering if anybody knows about the quality. I'm hoping to fire it next week. I'm still hunting supplies. Again, I'm glad to have found this site and look forward to growing my knowledge of these arms and as a history buff, its fitting. Thanks, mark

 

[tenngun]

often the bores were a bit rough,and the wood was 3ed class.That said I've seen some good shooting back in the day and some boys that made some good looking guns.They are not hc/pc,however they are at least as good as tc.The locks tend to be weak and you can get a lot of misfires in flint lock.I think most shooters started with some loer qulity entry level gun

 

[Zonie]

Welcome to the forum. Glad you joined us.

Like tenngun said, the locks weren't the greatest.

The CVA's made back in the 1970's locks were pretty poor but during the '80's and 90's they did make some needed improvements.
One of the needed improvements was to add a bridle to support the tumbler.

If you remove the screw opposite the lock, the lockplate should slide out of its mortice in the stock.
If you look at the locks inside and the tumbler (the roundish part that turns when the hammer is moved), if it is standing proud all by itself with nothing supporting the end away from the lockplate, you have a older 1970's design.

If there is a little steel bridge that covers the outer end of the tumbler and it has a hole that supports that outer end, you have an improved lock.

The stock is beech wood and although it's not the best it is functional.

The barrels on the early 1970's CVA's weren't the best but they were always safe to shoot.
The barrels on the 1980's and on up were always quite accurate and their quality was good.

Read up on shooting your new CVA and I know your going to enjoy it.

 

[scblkpowder]

I forgot to add the number I found. 0043267. I don't know if it helps. Thanks so much for the replies. The guy I bought it from said he got it rather recently (80s-90s) but it could have been a trade- in I suppose. It surely has some wear and slight rust but seems like a strong octagan barrel. I wondered if regular gun oil would help but decided to leave it alone until I got good information. It's a nice looking piece for a hundred bucks. I'll make a neat wall hanger if nothing else.

 

[Many Klatch]

For $100 you did alright. Run some oiled patches down the barrel. If they come back covered in red rust you might have to use either a green scrubby pad like you clean dishes with. Or you can use brass wool that you can buy at the paint aisle in a hardware store. Eventually the patches will come out clean. Pitting of the barrel can affect the accuracy depending on how deep the pits are and where they are located.

CVA is an entry level firearm, but as long as the lock works the barrel should be accurate enough for your getting started.

Many Klatch

 

[Loyalist Dave]

CVA's were excellent traditional styled entry rifles, as they were very inexpensive. True the caplocks were more successful than flinters, as it takes a bit more attention to detail to make a lock for a flinter that is good, and it's tough to keep the price down when doing so. Still, there are folks out there still shooting them, some liking to tweek and upgrade them as part of the learning process.

As to ammo (iirc) the CVAs tended to have slow twist rates in their barrels, like around 1:60, so patched round ball shot rather well, and conicals did not.

LD

 

[hanshi]

I killed several deer with a very cheap CVA kit build. It was very accurate and worked like a charm. It was a percussion, however.

 

[gunmaker43]

Don't sell those CVA's short, I taught all 4 of my kids to shoot with a .50 cal. CVA frontier rifle I made up from a kit 25 yr. ago---it still shoots a good group after all those shots, maybe 1000's. I did replace the mainspring with a forged one to pop those caps better. Get some paper target time, if the bore's good--go for it. Tom

 

[scblkpowder]

Thank y'all so much. The advice is so helpful. Ive had to look up some of the terms you've used and that's part of the great education. As I posted on the welcome topic, I can certainly see and understand my grandfathers enthusiasm. I wish now I would have paid more attention. (We knew it all as teens didn't we?) I did learn the first rule: safety first: I stick to that. I know I've said it before but thanks. You folks are kind. MB

 

[buzz]

Want the best cva flint rifle replace the flintlock with the LnR replacement lock reliable and decent entry shooter

 

[MSW]

welcome to the addiction ... get the bore cleared up and see how your new rifle patterns ... you may be surprised!

if you need help, you're in the right place - don't hesitate to ask ...

make good smoke!