i finally put the kit together after what i call roughsanding it. i wanted to wait and fine tune the fit and sanding after it was together so i wouldn't take too much wood off of it. when i did this i found a few problems. i want to ask one now and i'll wait on the others to try and figure out how to fix them on my own first. when the nose cap is installed and pined, if you look on the inside there is about a 1/16th gap between the front of the stock and the cap, looking from above and on the inside. it is almost flush on the sides. this makes the cap wiggle on the stock. i thought i could either reshape the whole front and have to redrill the pin and inlet the thimble or fill the gap with something. i think filling the gap would be by far the easiest. Do you guys agree that, I should just fill the gap to tighten it up? What do i fill it with? i hope i described this enough for you guys to understand what i'm talking about,, thanks as always
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another question about my gpr kit
- Thread starter cavscout
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The factory made GPR I own is built with this same gap between the inside of the nose cap and the wood.
Some of the rifles I've built also have a gap there. It hasn't been a problem and it allows the cap to be seated tightly on the rear against the wood. That's where you want the tight fit, so if it's fitting tight there, you really don't need to worry about it for now.
Because your in the sanding stage, I think you should just go ahead and finish sanding making sure the wood and the outside of the cap are perfectly flush with one another.
After you have finished the wood and browned/blued the nosecap and install it for the final time, if it is still "loose" and you want to fix it, you could fill the gap with Epoxy. Keep in mind, that once you do this, you will have a tough time ever getting the cap off again. :shocking:
Some of the rifles I've built also have a gap there. It hasn't been a problem and it allows the cap to be seated tightly on the rear against the wood. That's where you want the tight fit, so if it's fitting tight there, you really don't need to worry about it for now.
Because your in the sanding stage, I think you should just go ahead and finish sanding making sure the wood and the outside of the cap are perfectly flush with one another.
After you have finished the wood and browned/blued the nosecap and install it for the final time, if it is still "loose" and you want to fix it, you could fill the gap with Epoxy. Keep in mind, that once you do this, you will have a tough time ever getting the cap off again. :shocking:
No, I didn't say the cap should be loose. I said there is a gap between the inside of the front of the cap and the end of the wood.
The reason I said to worry about it later is I like to put on the finish of the wood without the metal parts being installed. That way, I don't have to clean them off when I'm done.
The wood under the cap should recieve some oil when your doing the final wood finishing to protect it. When the wood gets the oil, it will swell some. This swelling may make the cap a real tight push on fit. If it does, your "looseness" problem will be gone.
Truth be known, I usually apply some of the top coat finish oil to the areas which will end up under the metal parts too. This "builds up" the surface making the metal parts fit even tighter.
That is why I suggested you ignore the loosness right now and work on finishing the wood.
The reason I said to worry about it later is I like to put on the finish of the wood without the metal parts being installed. That way, I don't have to clean them off when I'm done.
The wood under the cap should recieve some oil when your doing the final wood finishing to protect it. When the wood gets the oil, it will swell some. This swelling may make the cap a real tight push on fit. If it does, your "looseness" problem will be gone.
Truth be known, I usually apply some of the top coat finish oil to the areas which will end up under the metal parts too. This "builds up" the surface making the metal parts fit even tighter.
That is why I suggested you ignore the loosness right now and work on finishing the wood.
i understand it now,, thanks. i will have some more questions i know, once i figure out how to explain my next problem, but as i said earlier i want to try and figure it out first by myself. this would be a nightmare if i didn't have this forum to ask questions on.
don't sweat it yet, once you get the barrel under lugs tight and the breach tang set the barrel will take all the slop out of the cap.
Your fine, just don't let the d*** pin fall out while your messing with it. I was crawling around in the dirt and dust for 20 minutes looking for that little b******.
I really should clean my shop up... maybe later :haha:
Your fine, just don't let the d*** pin fall out while your messing with it. I was crawling around in the dirt and dust for 20 minutes looking for that little b******.
I really should clean my shop up... maybe later :haha:
If the cap is really loose because it is not fitting on the sides of the stock, don't forget, your the gunsmith.
Gunsmiths don't even think real hard about taking a non metalic mallet and giving the sides of the nosecap a tap to make it narrower so it is a tight fit on the wood. Just don't over do it.
If you tap it to a narrower condition so it fits the stock nicely but now it interferes with the side flats on the barrel, use your flat file to widen up the barrel channel in it.
Here again, go slowly and test it for fit often.
Gunsmiths don't even think real hard about taking a non metalic mallet and giving the sides of the nosecap a tap to make it narrower so it is a tight fit on the wood. Just don't over do it.
If you tap it to a narrower condition so it fits the stock nicely but now it interferes with the side flats on the barrel, use your flat file to widen up the barrel channel in it.
Here again, go slowly and test it for fit often.
