Yes, about once a year if I'm not selling them.
I use straight beeswax. They burn longer if they've "aged" for about a month. I don't know why.
Your burn rate will be proportional to the thickness of your wick. The thicker the wick, the larger the flame, and the faster the burn, BUT...the more light. So...you have to experiment with different thickness wicks, and find what you want for light vs. burn time.
Of course the thicker you make the body of the candle, the longer the burn, as well as the length...but remember you may have to fit it inside a lantern or into a candle stick, and it's hot enough to cause a metal lantern to get super hot, or to light the lid on a wooden lantern, several inches above the actual flame.
Also, be aware that with a slight breeze, an unprotected candle, or a one not shielded from a good draft inside a lantern, will also burn faster and "gutter" (send a stream of wax down the side).
IF you go hog wild and use a "historic" wicking material, such as linen or hemp, you will need to trim the wick from time to time. Hence the need for candle shears, special scissors for trimming wicks. The same is true if you simply use cotton string for cooking whole chickens as the wicking material.
I have used as much as 20% lard mixed with the beeswax, or 20% paraffin to stretch the beeswax, but no more than that, and not both.
I dip mine as it's faster for me to use a half-dozen candle dipping "frames" and dip two pairs at a time, than to use a mold. In the height of summer and hot weather, it's very slow.
LD