Any tips for Birchwood Casey Browning?

[nate c]

I'll be browning the bbl on my kit this Sunday with Birchwood Casey Browning solution.

The instructions state to get the metal approx 275 degrees F and then apply and wipe off / repeat as needed.

I don't have room in my oven for a 28" bbl, and I'm thinking of doing it over coals in my horizontal smoker outside.

Has anyone tried this? Any tips you can pass along?

Thanks in advance.

Nate

 

[loophole]

Throw the stuff away and wait till summer to use Forge Mountain. They changed the formula of the Plum Brown some time ago--took out the mercury as a safety measure, I think, and the stuff usually produces a splotchy yellowish brown. That's been my experience, anyway.

 

[walruskid1]

if you still use it, i used a propane torch to warm the barrel on my .45. it came out awesome after several applications. one ain't going to do it! its a dark brown to purple in color and very durable. heat it evenly and complete to get an even finish.

 

[nate c]

Thanks guys - I don't think I'll be able to wait until Summer. Most likely will do it this Sunday morning halftime...

How long did you wait between coats? Can you start right after it has cooled off with the next application or did you need to let it sit for awhile?

Nate

 

[LRB]

What the others said. Both of them. I found that after the last coat, let it sit for a few days before carding or clean up, with no oil on it, and it comes out pretty even and more reddish. I use Laurel Mt. Forge now a days. It is a more traditional brown and easy to work with. The old formula was much better than the new. Yeah, they took the mercury out of it. Ain't it nice how "they" take care of us. I could get a great brown with the original formula.

 

[walruskid1]

nate, i don't recall if i waited or not. i know i followed the directions on the kit, with good results

 

[Swampman]

Throw the stuff away and use Laurel Mountain Forge right now. It will work fine. The Birchwood Casey's is poop :winking:

 

I agree get the Laurel mountain. As long as you have humidity for the rusting process you will be fine. I use the birchwood/casey as aquafortis, by diluting it 2 to 1, and then applying, letting dry then useing a heat gun, just like the real stuff. If your humidity is to low to allow the barrel to rust, you can build a humidity box, use your shower, and I have even applied the Laurel Mountian, then took it out side in the 25 degree cold till it reached outside temp. Then I brought it into the warm house. If there is any moisture in the house the barrel will attract it. Worked for me last winter. :haha: Bill

 

[Zonie]

For using BC PlumBrown, you read correctly. The part has to be heated to about 260-290. If it is colder than that , the PB will deposite a layer of copper which you then have to sand off and start over.
If it is hotter than 290, the stuff evaporates much to fast leaving an ugly deposite that will leave a discolored area, no matter how many coats you apply.

The process I use is to completely degrease the barrel. Use rubber gloves so the oil from your skin does not contaminate the metal.

Heat the barrel. (do this outside. The stuff may not contain mercury but it's fumes can't be good for you.) I usually end up doing this in sections because it is too hard to keep the whole barrel at the right temperature.

Apply the solution putting most of your effort into the top and sides of the barrel . You can always go back and get the bottom which nobody will see anyway.

After the whole barrel is coated, wash off all of the crud using paper towels to wipe it clean.

Now, start over with the heating and applying.
It usually takes 4 or more coats to get a uniform looking coating.

After the last coat and wash, sit it in a corner for at least 5 hours.
It will look rather crappy at this point but heat it back up to about 160-180 degrees and apply a coating of linseed oil. This will darken the color and even out the appearance. (I have used Sheath to oil barrels at this stage and it worked OK to even out the color but the linseed will do a better job.).

Count on spending at least 2 hours doing this job.The heating, applying, washing, reheating takes time. Oh, you might want to practice up on your profanities. They help a lot when doing large parts like barrels.

Actually, I like this stuff, but find it works best on small things like lock plates, cocks, butt plates, trigger guards and the like.
These small parts don't show the uneven look that some of the larger parts have.

In all honesty, for large parts like barrels, the Laurel Mountain stuff is a lot easier to use and get a good looking browning.

 

[nate c]

Thanks to all who replied. I'll post pics when its done.

Nate