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Varnish was the original type finish
M qmTwo coats of aqua fortis will be plenty dark. Try inside barrel channel.
Agree. I used pure Tung on an ml more than 40 years ago. Held up well all this time. It is very moisture resistant.tung oil is best.
Linseed oil is not very water resistant. I use tung oil.This may be a stupid question but I'm asking anyway. Can I mix a bit of Bone Black with Aqua Fortis to get a darker finish? I am in the process of building a Kibler SMR and purchased the Bone Black to use as a stain for the maple but I am thinking it may be too dark. I will be using Tru Oil for the final coat. Thanks for any input and suggestions.
Tanic first , let dry. Then kiblersIRON NITRATE. And thats not the same as af.( its im sure propriatary) its buffered for a rosey er-ish color.And when blushed it stops burning so you need not neutralize and it wont green over time and i dont like tru oilI finished this Kibler with AF and blushed, followed by tannic acid. With the tannic acid you can rub back as little or as much as you want. Rubbing it back less will leave a darker/grimier looking finish. I tried using bone black also and preferred the tannic acid as it seemed to give me more control. After this, I finished it with three coats of Tried & True. Whole process took a few days, mostly because of the 24 hour dry time recommended for the T&T. Actual work time was probably less than 6 hours on the actual finish.
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