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Aqua Fortis

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Has anyone used this to darken a stock? I am putting together a replica (close as I can) of a half stock Hawken, using parts and a stock blank from TOTW. It's a plain blank, but it does have a little figure. I have 4 flintlocks under my belt, plus a number of modern rifles restocked. Always used modern stains and some form of boiled linseed oil (Laurel Mountain, Truoil, Linspeed). Once I used good old varnish. But I've been hesitant to use the aqua fortis I picked up some time ago. Thinking about it for the Hawken. So, has anyone used it? And does anyone know what the Hawken brothers finished their rifles with?
 
If it's maple it would work. Put as many coats on it to give you your deepest color and then after putting a finish on the stock, rub out the highlights and high wear areas with purple scotchbrite pads. Maybe use some bone black in the shadows.

Most of the originals I've seen are fairly dark around the low spots and have lighter areas around the high wear areas.

But don't use it on walnut. I used an aniline dye on my walnut to give it some color.

Here's an original (top) with the one built to represent it as the Missouri State Rifle. I like these colors.
232160-IMG-2431.jpeg
 
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Yes, fairly plain maple. Wonder what the Hawken brothers used?
I just skimmed Baird's book "Hawken Rifles" and could not find one reference of what finish they used. Something that important was not mentioned. I did notice that the grain in the stocks in the close ups was fairly open, not filled, and glass smooth like most like to do these days. Phil Coffins said in his post the finish was varnish, most likely hand made varnish. I don't know where he got his documentation from.

Old Winchesters were laquered. I don't know when they started to use lacquer but they did have varnish back then.
 
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I use Aqua Fortis on all my maple stocks. When I get a new bottle I will put some metal filings in it and let it set for about 6 months, that seems to give a darker red color. If when you blush the first coat it isn't dark enough you can put another coat on to get it darker. Different stocks take the stain differently.
 
I will give the Aqua Fortis a try. Do you neutralize with baking soda or such? I intend to follow with a good sealer (Permalyn?) and finish with satin varnish. This is intended as a working rifle, neat and an elegant form, but it will only "shine" in performance.
 
I will give the Aqua Fortis a try. Do you neutralize with baking soda or such? I intend to follow with a good sealer (Permalyn?) and finish with satin varnish. This is intended as a working rifle, neat and an elegant form, but it will only "shine" in performance.
I have always killed the stain. What I was taught is if you don't kill the aqua fortis the stock will continue to get even darker over time. Be careful to not get it too dark. When you put the finish on it will get darker.
 
Always used modern stains and some form of boiled linseed oil (Laurel Mountain, Truoil, Linspeed).

FYI, there's a new version of TruOil that has a low-gloss satin sheen, called "Genuine Oil". I've only gotten it through ebay and have never seen it in any shops. It has all the benefits of TruOil -- just less shine. Some builders on another muzzleloading forum has used it with good looking results. You might want to do a Google search to look for some projects done with it.

Old No7
 
I will give the Aqua Fortis a try. Do you neutralize with baking soda or such? I intend to follow with a good sealer (Permalyn?) and finish with satin varnish. This is intended as a working rifle, neat and an elegant form, but it will only "shine" in performance.
Don’t forget to heat it throughly with a heat gun. Let each coat dry 20-30 minutes, heat it up until the green color goes away. If your using iron nitrate you don’t need to neutralize, but it would be a good idea with stronger solutions. Baking soda or ammonia. And try to avoid getting the Aqua Fortis in the barrel channel or lock mortise or you could have corrosion problems down the road.
 
Don’t forget to heat it throughly with a heat gun. Let each coat dry 20-30 minutes, heat it up until the green color goes away. If your using iron nitrate you don’t need to neutralize, but it would be a good idea with stronger solutions. Baking soda or ammonia. And try to avoid getting the Aqua Fortis in the barrel channel or lock mortise or you could have corrosion problems down the road.
I was wondering when someone was going to mention heat after application on maple.
 
...Add some finish and the magic happens, this is red maple.

View attachment 287868

Agree; I was shocked the first time I put that first wet coat on and witnessed it first hand up close; it is truly magic...
IMG_20230613_163704320-2850533.jpg


And it also works on other woods like beech:

IMG_113 - Copy.jpg




Edited to add: Correction; that was not aqua fortis which is raw nitric acid as Comfortably Numb pointed out to me in another thread; it's Kibler-brand iron nitrate; I didn't know the diff until he castigated me.
 
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Again I say , .....If you like black gunstock wood , use chemicals on wood. I listened to all the written material a half century ago , and made four longrifle stocks black. Wood can be a beautiful thing , and I admit also , it's my opinion there are other means , colored pigments , to enhance the beauty of wood w/o ruining it.
I 've always lived near lots of maple trees grew in Pa.. I built a longrifle for a retired forestry engineer near here. He owned twenty acres of woods , or so , and wanted to reward me for the rifle build with a bonus beyond monetary reward. He walked me out in his woods , and showed me an unusual maple tree with shaggy bark like that of a shag bark hickory. The neighbor's sawmill was about 300 yds. distant from the maple's stump. The shaggy bark maple was cut into 2 3/4" slabs w/ bark edges left on. The end result...The gunstocks had dark tan stripes running longitudinally with the natural grain , mixed with the curl figure some maple contains. Experimentation using application of acid , or strong base chemicals , as prescribed in some m/l building instructions back then , destroyed the natural contrast of the figure , and grain in my wood. I went back to knowledge gained from a 1965 university course in printing , when printers had to know how to mix ink pigments to enhance printing on....... PAPER.....made from tree pulp. My experiments showed , apply black pigments first to enhance any figure in the wood , then apply the desired color gained through trial on scrap wood over the black curl enhancer. Detractors demand acids and bases are historical. Yea , but so is the perminant beauty of a fine longrifle stained with controlable pigment stains. I have just about all the books in print , with color photos showing how the early 18th century masters colored their wood. From experience , many surviving guns must have been pigment stained , and not totally enhanced with black looking chemical reactions. One famous builder noted in the Fox Fire V Book studys , made his stains from used chewing tobacco. No strong chemicals there. Just shows the diversities in coloration , and how to get there. Keep an open mind kids.
 
The stuff that TOTW sells. I think that is ferric nitrate. Listed ingredients are water, nitric acid, iron.
I just emailed them to confirm if it was iron nitrate and they responded with "its a nitric acid STAIN used to color maple stocks". Not too helpful. Your answer is more helpful.
 
If it's maple it would work. Put as many coats on it to give you your deepest color and then after putting a finish on the stock, rub out the highlights and high wear areas with purple scotchbrite pads. Maybe use some bone black in the shadows.

Most of the originals I've seen are fairly dark around the low spots and have lighter areas around the high wear areas.

But don't use it on walnut. I used an aniline dye on my walnut to give it some color.

Here's an original (top) with the one built to represent it as the Missouri State Rifle. I like these colors.
View attachment 286896
Very nice work, the stain and shading is excellent. Great looking rifle.
 
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