Aquafortis and oak

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bioprof

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I have a really nice curly oak 1x7 that I want to make into a horizontal gun rack to display some of my muzzleloaders. Any of you know what aquafortis would do on oak?
 
I'm not sure if it will work well. I was told by a friend that the aquafortis works well with the Maple stocks because of the sugar content. If you could, try it on a smaller sample pc that would give you a idea. I have a pint of the stuff he made up down on the bench but I havn't used it yet. If you try it let us know how it turns out for you.
 
I'll give it a try. I know there are a lot of tannins in oak, so I was afraid that it might just turn it black. I thought maybe someone on this board had tried it. The boards that I am using have really strong curl, and I don't want to cover it up with stain.
 
bioprof said:
Here's an interesting article on coloring wood the traditional way. It mentions fuming with ammonia to get a rich brown color with oak. I may give that a try.
http://www.kramers.org/color.htm[/quote]
Hey Bio, fumugating is the way to go. I use homemade Aquafortis and it is way too potent to use for oak. You're right it turns it black. The way I fumigate is to put the pieces in a covered container and place a small vial of ammonia in with it. It doesn't take very long to darken so keep checking it. Also do it in a well ventilated room or shed...Bud
 
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Bud,

Do you use ordinary household ammonia or do you get something stronger?
 
bioprof said:
Bud,

Do you use ordinary household ammonia or do you get something stronger?
Bio, I use the regular stuff, but don't get the sudsy. Try to keep it off the wood too. What dampnees gets on it comes from the evaporation process. That technique works well for copper too it'll make it turn black if you leave it long enough...Bud
 
I got ahold of some concentrated ammonia solution. Nasty stuff. Burns if you have the smallest nick in your skin. It works fast though. This was the results of only 15 minutes of fuming and just two coats of oil finish.
gunrack1.jpg
 

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