Are there factory screws I could make into lock screws?

[ChrisPer]

I am looking for advice on sourcing screws. I am about to start making a wheellock, and I bought taps and dies intending to buy long-shanked machine screws and thread to depth required for the various lock screws. Problem is the first specialist I went to told me that all the screws (4mm M)come fully threaded. Does anyone know a type with a meaty head for hand shaping a slotted dome, and long part-threaded shanks I can use as blanks for forming what I want?

 

[bob1961]

might try looking here :v ...........bob

trackofthewolf.com

 

[flaming canvas]

Track of the Wolf has blanks for 8-32 thread. They should mike at .160, give or take a couple thousandths. 4 mm is .158 according to my slide rule. (What can I say, I'm into history)

 

[ChrisPer]

Thanks... any more 'trade' stuff around?

It would be great to use TOTW, but I prefer to buy in my own country if I can, and stick with the sizes I designed the lock around (and bought the tools for already).

 

[Many Klatch]

You can use hex headed machine bolts and then turn the heads down to the profile that you want. I don't know that there is a problem with using screws that are threaded all the way, you just have to learn not to tighten them too tight when assembling the gun.

Many Klatch

 

[Birddog6]

Brownells sells an assortment of blanks in a case. Possibly you could make the screws how you wanted from their blanks.

 

[bioprof]

I'm having a similar problem with the matchlock that I'm building. I can't find a tang or lockbolt long enough for to go through the triggerguard up to the tang. I'm going to go to the hardware store today to see if I can find an 8-32 stove bolt that is long enough and with a big enough head that can be turned down.

 

[Birddog6]

How long a tang bolt is the min. length you can use.

Also, you could have someone turn you a screw blank on a lathe & then cut the threads on it by hand.

 

[laffingman67]

This may be a long way to go for it, but you can use button head machine bolts. Turn the head down on a lathe and mill the slots in.

 

[Jim-Iowa]

Thanks... any more 'trade' stuff around?

It would be great to use TOTW, but I prefer to buy in my own country if I can, and stick with the sizes I designed the lock around (and bought the tools for already).

Chris, Since you prefer to buy in your own country. May I ask where your located?
It might help in putting you in touch with purveyors in you area.

 

[Birddog6]

Another thought..... take a 1/4" flat head bolt that is long enough, & turn the entire bolt down to what you need & then take a die & cut new 8-32 threads on it.

 

[rkeltner]

i know, this is not the proper way.... but when in a pickle, i've a tendency to go for 10-32 allen head screws. the head is already close to the right diameter, there is enough meat om the head to put a slot into it without being real visible of it's origins, it's strong, and they're available in lengths long enough to do thde job! if you can find 8-32 allen head screws long enough, they're even better!!!

 

[rkeltner]

oh, yeah, this does require rethreading the lockplate and drilling the holes bigger, so this is only if you don' mind altering the weapon a little bit.

 

[Many Klatch]

When I turn the head down on a bolt I use my portable hand drill. Just put the threads in the chuck and then turn on the drill. I hold a file on the spinning head and then file the head to the profile I want. I use a hacksaw to cut the slot and then file the slot to the look I want. Chuck the whole thing back in the drill and sand it for a few seconds and you have a custom made screw head.

Many Klatch

 

[ChrisPer]

Excellent thoughts folks! The unthreaded part is to provide a smooth pivot surface for moving parts.

The hex head bolts was my first try. I went to these guys:[url] http://www.coventryfasteners.com[/url].au/coventry/divisions/industrial/coventry_fasteners/

They don't have an online catalog, but they got me 5/8" UNF high-tensile bolts which will become breech plugs, and some 4mm philips head screws for using in the lock. I ordered the hex heads but in the end they just claimed they weren't even made.

The whole point of this question is to avoid needing a lathe, so turning down the left-hand threads of 1 3/4" clamp screws from Chaika snowplows, using CNC lathes cobbled together from a Pepsi can and 8088-based washing machine controllers is basically not going to fly.

I have a Chinese GMC pedestal drill, a basic belt grinder and a dremel; I have bought taps and dies and drills as per thread reference tables. Small metric for the lock screws, and 5/8 for the breech plugs.

I feel that investing a couple thousand in a lathe just to mod up six screws is excessive, and the other stuff in the garage won't leave room for the lathe.

 

[paulvallandigham]

YOu should find used lathes in great shape for sale all over the place, as companies are getting rid of them, for the price of scrap metal, and replacing them with CNC lathes. Even CNC equipment is available at bankruptcy sales, if the Chinese aren't buying all them up.

 

[Jim-Iowa]

If a small lathe was a option there are mini-lathes available for around $300-400.
With about a 20" bed and 6" swing.
I want one! Just trying to decide if I want a lathe and a mill or buying one of the combination machines?
But as has been said you can do quite well with a file and your drillpress.

 

[44-henry]

I've had a lot of experience with the Asian 7x12 lathes over the last three years (I bought several of them for the University that I teach at and am currently doing research on their use in an educational setting). For the type of work that you are describing, one of these lathes would help you out considerably. They are not junk, as a lot of folks (who probably have never turned one on) would have you believe and are perfectly capable of precision work right out of the box. You can easily turn and thread any size screw you need from scrap stock and can even do some decent milling in them when the need arises, their only limitation is the size of the part that can be turned in them. I purchased ours from Cummins, which is an American supplier, price was $399 + another $70 shipping. For that price they sent me the lathe, 3 jaw chuck, steady rest, follower rest, tool holder, centers, carbide bits, and a complete set of change gears. A lathe like this can add a whole new dimension to the work that you can do and when you don't need it can be easily stored under the bench since they only weigh about 80 pounds. I wouldn't want to build a wheelock without one. You can even do some simple barrel work on one since the spindle bore can be opened up to 13/16" allowing that size barrel to fit in the headstock for breeching and with a simple milling attachment you can cut dovetails in the barrel also. If you want to see what you can do with them simply search for Mini Lathes on Google and behold. You can also take a look at[url] www.littlemachineshop.com[/url] to see more detailed information and tooling available for them.

 

[44-henry]

Jim,
I would definitely not buy a combination machine. These can be a real headache when you need to switch over from lathe work to milling or drilling. Don't ask me how I know. Most lathe work in this business, unless you get into barrel work, is small stuff that one of the 7x12 or 9x20 lathes would be more than adequate for. I personally find the 7x12's more useful than the 9x20's (we have those also in the University lab) because of their variable speed motors and their ability to cut left hand threads without modification. Both the 9x20 and 7x12 lathes get a lot more use from our students than do the 13" Clausings that we also have. I think that if you just wanted to do small stuff you would be more than happy with one of the 7x12 lathes and possibly one of the matching mini mills. Both of these machines with some basic mods will perform way better than their price would lead you to beleive. If you need a bigger mill than look at one of the mill drills on the market, I have been using a Jet 15 for a long time in my home shop and it works adequately for the stuff I do related to gun work.

 

[Jim-Iowa]

Alexander, Thanks you for your comments!
An opinion from someone with hands on experience is priceless and will be noted for sure.