Ash stock finish?

[Uncle Alvah]

Snooping through the various websites for a stock blank, I have come across at least one place that supplies blanks in ash.
I have built a few pieces of furniture in ash, it's one of my favorite woods. In each case, the only finish I applied was polyurethane, I love the way just the poly alone makes the grain "come to life", and it's simple besides.

I'm wondering if, when used in a longrifle stock, the ash is typically stained before finishing?

Also, is there a preferred type oil finish for an ash rifle stock, or will TruOil,linseed, or a Danish oil finish suffice?

 

[paulvallandigham]

Because of the large pores in Ash, I would recommend that you first coat the entire stock, and mortises, with raw linseed oil- thinned by your fingers, but enough to cover the pores. Then use any other oil you like to complete the finish.

Raw Linseed oil(RLO) will fill the pores to seal the wood from moisture. The other wood oil finishes will produce the kind of "shine" or look you want in the stock.
The dryers in your chosen oil finish will also help to dry the RLO.

Ash wood comes in so many subtle color changes that its difficult to recommend some kind of stain to use. Mostly, ash stock blanks will be about as white as a baseball bat.

You might want to try alcohol based stains on some scraps to see if the gunstock won't look " better" with some kind of stain to the wood. I don't have a lot of faith in oil, or water-based stains on these hardwoods, and I don't think you want to use agua fortis on Ash, unless you want a black stock. :thumbsup:

 

[Mike Brooks]

I'm wondering if, when used in a longrifle stock, the ash is typically stained before finishing?

Yes

 

[Zonie]

Ash is an open grain wood like Walnut with many open pores.
It is very blond so if you don't want a blond stock you will need to stain it.

If you decide to stain it use an alcohol based stain, available at most wood working stores or use Birchwood Casey Walnut stain which is also alcohol based and is available at your local gun store.

Also, if you want to stain the wood, do NOT use linseed oil on the wood before staining it. Using it will interfere with the woods ability to absorb the stain.

As for the open grain, after staining you can apply multiple coats of finishing oils (like Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil). By building up layers and gently steel wooling off the excess from the surface you will eventually fill the grain pores.

 

[ebiggs1]

I have built a few pieces of furniture in ash, it's one of my favorite woods. In each case, the only finish I applied was polyurethane, I love the way just the poly alone makes the grain "come to life", and it's simple besides.

I believe you answered your question here. If you, “love the way just the poly alone makes the grain "come to life” go for it.