Ask help to cast my first round balls

[Red Owl]

1. Need good ventilation. Don't breathe the fumes.
2. If the ball is wrinkled or frosted- just put it back in the pot and re-melt it. There isn't anything wrong about this, you'll get the temp "just right and then cast a lot of good balls.
3. Wood dowel to open some molds.
4. terry cloth, etc. to catch the hot balls.
5. As stated, should really use pure lead.

 

[jfaldo]

One thing that no one has said so far is that if you're going to melt lead over a flame source without temperature regulation you must absolutely have a thermometer to measure the lead temperature. Lead melts at 621 degrees. An unregulated flame heat source can easily get your lead to over 1000 degrees. When you get up around 1600 degrees lead fumes can be an issue. First off you do not need your lead more than about 700 degrees give or take a few degrees. I cast bullets up to 550 grains and never use more that 730 degrees. Folks that tell you to crank up the temperature to eliminate problems in your casting are leading you down the wrong road. If you have issues in your casting session and your running your lead around 700 or so degrees the issue is something other than temp of your lead.

 

[Notchy Bob]

1. Need good ventilation. Don't breathe the fumes.
2. If the ball is wrinkled or frosted- just put it back in the pot and re-melt it. There isn't anything wrong about this, you'll get the temp "just right and then cast a lot of good balls.
3. Wood dowel to open some molds.
4. terry cloth, etc. to catch the hot balls.
5. As stated, should really use pure lead.

Good post, @Red Owl .

Casting a few dozen round balls, as @marco has indicated is his goal, doesn't have to be complicated, and he has said he doesn't want to get an electric pot.

This is from John Kirk Townsend's Narrative of a Journey Across the Rocky Mountains:



Best regards,

Notchy Bob

 

[nhmoose]

Look up Cast Boollits that spelling cannot link to them per rules here.

Anything needed to know about casting is there

 

[user 49399]

Here’s my set up. I like to make round balls outside, over a fire similar to how long hunters and mountain men may have done. I like to use a metal pan however to control the fire in dry conditions. It also gives a handy place to rest my tools. It doesn’t take a big fire to melt lead.

I use a piece of wood to tap the ball out of the wood and usually drop them into a pan of water or sand. I also wear safety glasses and sturdy leather gloves. It’s not complicated but very rewarding.

 

[Tom A Hawk]

An amusing thread. 53 years ago my first minie balls were cast on a cold basement floor, using a Bernzomatic torch, an empty tuna can and a couple of brick to hold the can. Success and a lifetime of muzzle loading followed.

 

[1BadDart]

Dear sirs,

I have never casted a round ball.
I do want to make small batches in my backyard (using a mask, etc). Let's say, 50 round balls.

I don't want to buy a electric pot melter.
I do want to use a small iron pot over a propane flame.
I already have a Lyman type lead ladler and the bullet mold.

And I have some lead bullets collected from the shooting range to melt.

But I do not have any experience.

Would you guys point me the correct direction so I can cast some round balls with minimum problems?

QUESTIONS
Did I need anything else?
I see some people using lingot pans..is it necessary?
what would be the best size and shape of a small iron pot to use along with a Lyman ladler?

I am thinking to buy this pot (not affiliated):

https://www.apaneladeferro.com.br/static/1965/sku/SGRD_293_004_caaroladeferrominiaturacomtampa.png
Does it fill my needs?

Thanks a lot

If you're thinking a mask like people wore for covid, don't do it. They are particulate filters and of no use for fumes. A respirator with carbon air purification filters is what you need.

 

[Notchy Bob]

Here’s my set up. I like to make round balls outside, over a fire similar to how long hunters and mountain men may have done. I like to use a metal pan however to control the fire in dry conditions. It also gives a handy place to rest my tools. It doesn’t take a big fire to melt lead.

I use a piece of wood to tap the ball out of the wood and usually drop them into a pan of water or sand. I also wear safety glasses and sturdy leather gloves. It’s not complicated but very rewarding.
View attachment 167497

Nice set-up!

I don't see a separate ladle in the photo. Do you pour into the mould directly from the big ladle used for melting the lead? That's what the old-timers did, but I think I'm too clumsy to do it that way.

Regarding the mask, I don't think it's really necessary if you are casting outdoors.

Notchy Bob

 

[B P Maniac Shooter]

This works for me.....

 

[necchi]

Dear sirs,
Does it fill my needs?

Yes.

 

[user 49399]

Nice set-up!

I don't see a separate ladle in the photo. Do you pour into the mould directly from the big ladle used for melting the lead? That's what the old-timers did, but I think I'm too clumsy to do it that way.

Regarding the mask, I don't think it's really necessary if you are casting outdoors.

Notchy Bob

Thanks Notchy Bob!

I do have another larger ladle for melting larger amounts of lead, but I wasn’t using it this time. I was using some smaller pieces of clean lead that I had and was able to use just the small ladle pictured which I pour from directly into the bag mold which is leaning against the pan. I only poured enough .62 caliber balls for tomorrow’s shooting session.

I collect scrap lead such as roofing lead, sinkers, wheel weights (not zinc), etc. I melt these in a large ladle. After skimming off the junk, I pour them into a mold which is a very small cast iron skillet. The skillet is about an inch thick by maybe five inches diameter. I like to make lead pancakes about a quarter inch thick and five inches in diameter. These are easy to stack and easy to cut into small pieces which can be melted in the small ladle.

Banjoman

 

[Kansas Jake]

If you are in the open or a well ventilated area a respirator or mask is really not needed

 

[Johnny Tremain]

Those that cast use a hardness tester.

 

[Kansas Jake]

I’ve never used a hardness tester or a thermometer. When balls or bullets are filling the mold and come out smooth I figure the temp is right. For hardness I try to find plumber scrap or roofing scrap. If I can fingernail scratch it and it thuds when dropped on concrete it is pretty soft.

 

[45man]

Does the fingernail test apply ? I ask because I often melt down a mix of bullets from my berm . 9mm , 38, 44, etc. I pour then into small 1 oz. "pucks" to use for casting. I test with my thumb nail and if it leaves a mark I consider it good to go , whether 100% pure or not I don't know. What are your thoughts ? -Thanks

Too soft for the use in modern revolvers. I water drop WW lead for those to get around BHN 20 so the case tension is correct. Many use soft pure for the .38 and I cleaned many revolvers for the Cle police when I used their range. Never again as the bores were full and also the outside of the frames. I use only pure for ML and have saved up a few tons of it.
I can get in depth about modern revolvers to make them shoot like your favorite rifle or better and mine are capable of 1" groups at 100 yards but this is not the place.
I even make my own molds with my designs that do better then any store bought. I make the cherries on my lathe for about 30 cents each without labor costs. If you want to learn more, PM me or E mail me.
This is what I get. I did a drop test on my .44 bullet at 200 yards. The bullet weighs 330 gr and dropped 35" but look at the group. The second picture is a shotgun shell I shot at 100 yards with the BFR in .500 JRH.