Baking soda to water percentage?

[oncewas]

Okay I've looked everywhere and googled it but I can't find out what percentage do I mix the baking soda to water to neutralize the rusting of my barrel. Just a mild mix or a paste? I used Dangler’s Browning Solution. Now if someone could give me an idea on how to mix the baking soda I’ll be indebted.

 

[user 34300]

It does not matter, just make paste.

It won't stop the rusting though. Rinse it thoroughly with water. IT will after rust for a couple of days. Wipe off the rust with an oily rag. IT will stop by itself in a few days. Avoid the temptation to assemble it before the after rusting has stopped.

 

[oncewas]

Okay thanks. That's what I needed to know " just make paste ".

 

[Col. Batguano]

Paste is fine as said above. You just need to make sure you get it off of there before it dries. Or, household ammonia. Rub it in there really good, maybe even with a scouring brush. Give it the treatment at least a couple of times. It doesn't take long and why risk the barrel or other metal parts reactivating the rust on you.

 

[oncewas]

Paste is fine as said above. You just need to make sure you get it off of there before it dries. Or, household ammonia. Rub it in there really good, maybe even with a scouring brush. Give it the treatment at least a couple of times. It doesn't take long and why risk the barrel or other metal parts reactivating the rust on you.

Does it have to be ammonia? I heard you can use Acetone, which I have. I have Lysol or Clorox wipes but neither of them contain much ammonia.
I used baking soda and washed it off real good then heated the barrel with my heat gun and wiped with oil. I'll let it set over night then I'll wipe down and again use the heat gun and oil but do I need to get ammonia or is there something else I can use?

 

[oncewas]

Ah got Glass cleaner. I have some. Windex and generic. I'm go to go thanks.

 

[wb78963]

Plain warm water (not boiling) will dissolve black gunpowder fouling.. It also dissolves the very corrosive salts of the synthetic substitutes.
Put some ordinary table salt in a glass. Pour your favorite cleaning concoction in the glass and stir.
If it dissolves the salt it will dissolve the salts in the fouling. If not, dump out the mess and get some warm water to clean the barrel and exterior.
Swab the barrel and exterior clean then oil and store muzzle down for a few days to let excess oil migrate out.
Personally I use Ballistol 1:10 with distilled water and have no rust problems on any gun even those that have been in the rack for six mounts or more. That mix cleans and oils in one fell swoop.
The Sharps learning cycle has taken up all my time and I can't shoot 'em all at once.
Hold Center
Bunk

 

[Col. Batguano]

No it doesn't have to be ammonia, or baking soda. Just something PH basic to neutralize the acid. If you don't neutralize it completely the gun will continue to darken on you over the years.

 

[coloradoclyde]

No it doesn't have to be ammonia, or baking soda. Just something PH basic to neutralize the acid. If you don't neutralize it completely the gun will continue to darken on you over the years.

Baking soda has a ph of around 9, Washing soda is up around 11.

 

[Reno]

It depends really on how far you went with the browning. My opinion anyway. I nearly always when the browning is done, wipe down very good with 4 ought steel wool and a good oil. Then in a few hours, or maybe the next day, there will be some rust appear. I scrub that down again, and then begin to scrub with RIG and four ought steel wool The edges of the flats might begin to show but they nearly always settle down afterwards.
I then wipe with the rig and a good rag. I always considered this part of the process. It gives a lot of depth to the brown and darkens it a lot. Then just regular MTn. and oil every once in a while as you would anyway.

 

[Pete G]

Household ammonia. It doesn't leave any residue.

 

[Crow-Feather]

No it doesn't have to be ammonia, or baking soda. Just something PH basic to neutralize the acid. If you don't neutralize it completely the gun will continue to darken on you over the years.

I use Easy Off Oven Cleaner to strip stocks, (don't have to sand) I understand it is a strong base.

 

[oncewas]

It depends really on how far you went with the browning. My opinion anyway. I nearly always when the browning is done, wipe down very good with 4 ought steel wool and a good oil. Then in a few hours, or maybe the next day, there will be some rust appear. I scrub that down again, and then begin to scrub with RIG and four ought steel wool The edges of the flats might begin to show but they nearly always settle down afterwards.
I then wipe with the rig and a good rag. I always considered this part of the process. It gives a lot of depth to the brown and darkens it a lot. Then just regular MTn. and oil every once in a while as you would anyway.

Okay this sounds good but I'm a little on the ignorant side here what is RIG?
I'm using a scotbrite pad instead of steelwool but I have 4-0 steel wool if needed.

 

[Reno]

RIG is a gun grease that comes in a can, at least when I bought it last it was in a can. One can will probably last a lifetime and be handed down. There are now gun cloths that have RIG in them, small tubs, large tubs. It is great for storage.
You might ask your local gunshop or check it out at one of the on line stores. It has been around a long time.

 

[Col. Batguano]

Wipe it with ammonia or scrub with baking soda really well. Hose it off (I use the shower). Dry it. Repeat a couple of times. I use a torch to get it really completely dry at the end. Then coat a warmed barrel with a heavy oil. If you want a blackened finish instead of a browned one you can torch the oil. The finish protection comes mostly from the oil. The warmed barrel opens up the pores in the metal somewhat so they really absorb the oil. Let it sit there all gooey for a day or so (I hang it from the tang hole). If there are any areas that are a little dry the next day then wipe on more oil. After a day or two you can wipe off the excess, or just leave it that way until your final assembly.

 

[Zonie]

I would keep anything that had Clorox in the name, far away from any of my guns.
If there is a chance of it containing any chlorine, it can cause havoc.

 

[Reno]

Very good point about the Clorox. Some of the stuff mentioned here, ammonia, baking soda, bleach, can have very serious reactions to each other. Not to mention browning solutions are generally of nitric acid.

So This is no time to break out the home chemistry set.

 

[The Crisco Kid]

I would keep anything that had Clorox in the name, far away from any of my guns.
If there is a chance of it containing any chlorine, it can cause havoc.

You're right. That's why it can do such a good job of "aging" a gun.

 

[Cap'n Ball]

I use Easy Off Oven Cleaner to strip stocks, (don't have to sand) I understand it is a strong base.

The active ingredient in Easy Off is lye. Strong base.

 

[jerrywh]

8.0374% no less no more