Ball board.

[blowinsmoke]

I need to make a ball board before the flintlock season here in PA starts. How do i make one for a 50 cal PB? More specifically, what size holes to drill and how thick of a board should i use? Any other advice or tips would be appreciated. Thanks guys..

 

[Chilidog]

For a 50 cal. use a 1/2 inch bit and the board should be about 1/2 inch as well.

 

[Stumpkiller]

Many ways. Drill 1/8" smaller (3/8") and open the holes with a pen-knife or rat-tail file and check carefully for tight fit with a dry patch & ball. Or, drill a 15/32" or 29/64" hole and spend less time reaming.

I like a block about 1/8" thicker than the ball so the lubed patch doesn't goo up my bag and clothes.

About any wood will work, though hardwoods resist splitting better.

My most used only holds three balls. I've got several that hold five or seven. Once you make one you'll be trying different ideas and shapes.

 

[blowinsmoke]

Thanks guys. Im gonna tinker with it tomorrow and try to make it look nice. Is it ok to use a prelubed patch? I assume i need to sand the inside to get it real smooth so it doesnt tear the patch?

 

[ohio ramrod]

I like to make mine about 1/8 inch thicker than the caliber. And the holes about .010 larger to make removing the balls easier.If you have a taper reamer you can get the size just right to make loading easier and still hold the balls firmly. If you dont have a tapered reamer you can file a taper on a doll rod, saw a slit in the taper and wrap a piece oc sandpaper in the slit and around the doll rod.Then chuck the doll rod in your drill and sand away. This will smooth and taper your hole. I put my pathes in dry and fill the area between the radius of the ball and the side of the hole with a mixture of lard and beeswax. That way the ball being pushed out lubes the patch. For hunting I make a simple three hole "arc " block and hang it as a necklas the length that the block will be the right heigth for loading.

 

[jtmattison]

I use a 17/32 drill bit and it works perfect for me with .490 or .495 RB and pillow ticking patch.

HD

 

[Stumpkiller]

Thanks guys. Im gonna tinker with it tomorrow and try to make it look nice. Is it ok to use a prelubed patch? I assume i need to sand the inside to get it real smooth so it doesnt tear the patch?

Smooth is good but it dosn't need to be glassy. I like to bevel one side for a better fold when pushing the patched ball in and to take-up some of the material when cutting the patch flush.

Trial fit with dry material and before using a lubed patch make sure to seal the wood well. I use a Min-wax stain finish and then put on several coats of hard wax to keep it from absorbing lube.

After that, lube up the patch material and seat your balls.

 

[BrownBear]

Thanks guys. Im gonna tinker with it tomorrow and try to make it look nice. Is it ok to use a prelubed patch? I assume i need to sand the inside to get it real smooth so it doesnt tear the patch?

You definitely want to lube the patch. I load my blocks just as though I was cutting patches at the muzzle on a rifle. That way there's no excess patching sticking up above the board.

I've never had any problem with roughness in the holes tearing patches, but smooth holes do ease loading the block.

 

[Claude Mathis]

http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/192279/

 

[blowinsmoke]

Thanks guys. I just finished making one. Its not as nice looking as i hoped it wouldve been but definitely functionable. After i get some sealant for it, ill post a pic. I think ill work on making a few others to see how they turn out. Thanks again! Tim

 

[Ketchakah]

Although I use a smoothbore primarilly, I will use a bullet board for PRB. As Stumpkiller said, make your holes small and sand them to the size you need to hold the PRB firmly.
I however, use a much narrower board. Probaly no more than Half the bore size. I like the ball to stick out both sides. This allows the ball to center on the bore quicker and i dont have to look to do it. Just my preferance.

 

[bwhoffman]

Having made a bunch of these, to give away to friends and for the trade blanket, I add one tip....

...The wood ball block/ball board will draw the lube out of your patch over time if the board is left "loaded".
Check your ball/patch prior to the need for lube!

BTW, I seal mine, espeacially in the holes, with bee's wax or oil seal/stain.

 

[mazo kid]

Here are some ideas from another earlier post: http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/...69078/hl/"loading+block"/fromsearch/1/#669078

 

[Tom-ADC]

How about a few pictures for us novice types.
Sorry missed the link first time around.

 

[Ketchakah]

"...The wood ball block/ball board will draw the lube out of your patch over time if the board is left "loaded".


Yes, I have noticed this too. I usually use a spit patch so its not much of a problem. I just give it a lick before loading. But yes, If you want a regular lube, be a good idea to relube occasionally.

 

[paulvallandigham]

YOu can stop the lube absorbing action of the wood of a ball board by sealing the wood INSIDE the hole for each PRB with a good oil finish. Expect to use several coats, as it will soak into the end grain.

Then, before loading the block, Try spraying some furniture wax into the holes and wipe the excess wax off. The wax will further seal the end grain, and protect your patch. It also helps make it easier to get the PRB out of the block when loading. :surrender: :thumbsup:

 

[Ketchakah]

Thats a great Idea

 

[Sunkmanitu Tanka]

YOu can stop the lube absorbing action of the wood of a ball board by sealing the wood INSIDE the hole for each PRB with a good oil finish. Expect to use several coats, as it will soak into the end grain.

Then, before loading the block, Try spraying some furniture wax into the holes and wipe the excess wax off. The wax will further seal the end grain, and protect your patch. It also helps make it easier to get the PRB out of the block when loading. :surrender: :thumbsup:

Tx Paul! I now have a cosey little handy job on Xmas day! I removed the balls from my block, and I am now waxin the heck out of my ball block, while sipping a good old Islay Whisky, and watching a darn good Xmas movey ... real tacky but nice ... Have a nice Christmas too! :hatsoff:

 

[nw_hunter]

Here is a chart I found somewhere !

Loading block hole size

32 cal = 21/64" bit
36 cal = 3/8" bit
40 cal = 27/64" bit
45 cal = 29/64" bit
50 cal = 1/2 " bit
54 cal = 35/64 bit
58 cal = 19/32" bit
62 cal = 5/8 bit
69 cal = 11/16 "bit
75 cal = 3/4" bit

(Need to file a little after drilled to fit)

Merry Christmas everyone!

 

[Ketchakah]

Thats all well and good,
But the hole size will depend upon the size of the ball and patch combo.
In my (now Karwelis') Rifle a .50 cal I used a 490 ball and a .10 patch. With a 1/2 inch hole in the block, They would fall out.
In my 20 bore, The hole size would depend on whether i use a 595 ball or a 600 ball or whatever.
In reality for the ball to fit properly and not be too loose or tight, Each hole needs to be custom fit and sanded to the proper size.
I use a dowle with sandpaper attached and sand the hold then try the Ball-Patch combo untill it fits the way i want it.
It takes a bit to do it, But works well. :wink: