I've seen photos and read tnreads about them and know they use a tapered wooden peg to plug them with, but, what do they use for the neck that the plug goes into? I would like to try and make one of leather for .32 cal balls. Thanks.
Ball flask?
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I make primitive ball and shot bags from whatever occurs.
This one has a spout of a short section of bamboo from my yard, with a cork stopper. The bag and spout are bound together with flax thread treated with beeswax.
One made...not by me... entirely of rawhide, spout is stiff enough on its own, carved wooden stopper.
A couple made of soft leather, but with separate rawhide spouts, made simply by forming a strip of rawhide into a circle and sewing it together when wet. Hard as wood when dry. Carved stoppers, bound to the bag with flax thread and beeswax.
Spence
This one has a spout of a short section of bamboo from my yard, with a cork stopper. The bag and spout are bound together with flax thread treated with beeswax.
One made...not by me... entirely of rawhide, spout is stiff enough on its own, carved wooden stopper.
A couple made of soft leather, but with separate rawhide spouts, made simply by forming a strip of rawhide into a circle and sewing it together when wet. Hard as wood when dry. Carved stoppers, bound to the bag with flax thread and beeswax.
Spence
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Years ago I made a ball bag (it worked but looked like crap). I just whittled a neck piece, drilled a hole for .490 RB and held it in place with heavy thread wrapping. Then whittled a stopper for a friction fit. I'm sure Neanderthals would consider it rather crude. :grin:
Cutfingers offers ball flasks on the Forum here. He does great work, by the way. He uses heavy leather that is molded into shape, including the neck. It is stiff and strong enough so a wooden neck insert isn't needed. He whittles the stopper that fits the leather.
Jeff
Cutfingers offers ball flasks on the Forum here. He does great work, by the way. He uses heavy leather that is molded into shape, including the neck. It is stiff and strong enough so a wooden neck insert isn't needed. He whittles the stopper that fits the leather.
Jeff
I like a soft bag, they work very well for me. If I carry them in my shot pouch, they conform and take up less space. When hunting, though, I like to tuck the ball bag under my belt/sash with the spout hanging down in front, like this:
I never carry a big bunch of balls, but I arrange it so that 3-4 of them are in the section of the bag hanging down in front, the rest in the part below the belt in back. With a few balls in both sections of the bag, it can't slip out and get lost. The best part, though, is that I can remove the stopper, let a ball roll into my hand, replace the stopper without losing any other balls, all with one hand, without even looking. A lot better than having to fish around to get the bag out of my pouch and then put it back after removing a ball.
Spence
I never carry a big bunch of balls, but I arrange it so that 3-4 of them are in the section of the bag hanging down in front, the rest in the part below the belt in back. With a few balls in both sections of the bag, it can't slip out and get lost. The best part, though, is that I can remove the stopper, let a ball roll into my hand, replace the stopper without losing any other balls, all with one hand, without even looking. A lot better than having to fish around to get the bag out of my pouch and then put it back after removing a ball.
Spence
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Hi Spence, That is a smart set up. If I still shot in the field I would adopt it in a flash.
Actually, the last times I used my homemade 'ball' bag it held shot for ML trap shooting. It let me pour shot into the measure with little spilling. If I made new one I would try to make the stopper a shot measure as a backup.
Jeff
Actually, the last times I used my homemade 'ball' bag it held shot for ML trap shooting. It let me pour shot into the measure with little spilling. If I made new one I would try to make the stopper a shot measure as a backup.
Jeff
This is my method ,not pc but does the job
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(Pete)
(Pete)
CrackStock
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airborne1 said:
I have made a number of these - mostly with a lathe and there are a number of options.
Copper tubing is generally considered a period material and can be flared on both ends to form the neck. This keeps the tube from coming out of the main structure and acts as a funnel for both directions.
As seen in the photo from a vendor at Dixon's,
turned bone, horn or antler can be made to work.
These are from a guy who had written a book about such items and was selling off his collection that had been used in the book.
Wood worked okay, but is generally a bit thick in order to be strong enough.
As to the stopper, tapered is an option but that lacks finesse and the function is less than ideal. The springy quality of wood and thoughtful slots and sizing can create a clever stopper which would be a finer made item.
Percolate on these ideas a bit further and see what you can create.
CS
BullRunBear said:
that's a good idea. i threw together a shot bag out of pillow ticking yesterday and used a ( Lord forgive me ) .410 shot shell for the neck. there is some river cane growing in one of my hunting spots and i was going to replace the shot shell with that. river cane doesnt grow to big in my neck of the woods but i think i will buy a cane pole next time i see one and borrow your idea.
times sure change fast, used to see cane poles in every mom and pop around here but i havent seen one in years other than the ones from china that come apart that they sell at china mart. i guess the bream buster has put the cane pole guys out of business at last.
thanks.
creek
Love em, just purchased one off a member and couldn't be happier. I've made a few smaller shot flasks and they are great. Certainly easy to make and can be tailored to each individuals style and personal tastes.
This is a shot flask I made for my baker smooth bore using a .577/450 & 45/70 cartridge case,
(Pete)
(Pete)
Very well done sir, that's a good use of a spare casing as well. I've also made shot dippers from .45 acp brass, primer removed and the hole soldered shut. Might have to give your idea a try. :thumbsup:
Beautiful workmanship! I love seeing photos of things folks have crafted. What is the cordage that holds the cap made of? How is the "neck" secured? Was the leather wetted and when dry, the neck is then secured? Thanks for sharing!
Spence, your second bag down -- did you get it from Ray Feree in Wyoming? Ray used to sell them here. I bought one -- and his pamphlet on making rawhide ball bags. He was a nice guy. I gave the bag to a friend, but still have the pamphlet.
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I agree on the utility of a flask for shot. Just don't get it too big. A flask not much bigger than a lemon holds a whole pound of shot. Weigh out the amount of shot you'll need into a cup or something and consider the volume in designing your flask. No sense building it big enough for 5# when you're unlikely to use more than 2# on your busiest day.
Another point on shot flasks: Give some thought to the temper or "stiffness" of the leather you use. Floppy nestles into your shooting bag better, but when about half full can be a real PITA for dispensing shot. I've settled on stiff leather.
If your flask is for ball, in my experience there is no one-size-fits all when it comes to the neck. If you make it for the largest balls you shoot, odds are that you'll get "bridging" at the neck with smaller shot, forcing you to shake the flask to free up the shot. Perty darned noisy with a stiff flask. That relationship also applies to any taper leading up to the neck. I've found it best to have a mostly round flask with zero taper into a straight neck. But with the neck/mouth the right size for the balls I'll be using.
Hey, you're going to have so much fun making these, you'll be looking for excuses to make more. I just gave you a very good reason to make one for each caliber you shoot! :rotf:
Another point on shot flasks: Give some thought to the temper or "stiffness" of the leather you use. Floppy nestles into your shooting bag better, but when about half full can be a real PITA for dispensing shot. I've settled on stiff leather.
If your flask is for ball, in my experience there is no one-size-fits all when it comes to the neck. If you make it for the largest balls you shoot, odds are that you'll get "bridging" at the neck with smaller shot, forcing you to shake the flask to free up the shot. Perty darned noisy with a stiff flask. That relationship also applies to any taper leading up to the neck. I've found it best to have a mostly round flask with zero taper into a straight neck. But with the neck/mouth the right size for the balls I'll be using.
Hey, you're going to have so much fun making these, you'll be looking for excuses to make more. I just gave you a very good reason to make one for each caliber you shoot! :rotf:
It has been too long since I bought that for me to remember the details, Bill, but I didn't buy it from the man personally. I used to attend the annual spring shoot at Friendship, Indiana, every year and cruise the commercial row. We also used to have an excellent Mom & Pop BP shop here back at that time, sorta think I might have gotten it there. It could well be one of his, if they were ever sold by such vendors. I have three of them, don't use them much now, but they are neat little bags.BillinOregon said:
The other two:
Spence
CrackStock
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I have found hickory or ash to be the best stoppers, but others will do.
The cheap no-name wooden dowels from Lowe's or Home Depot are not great. We did a few and they were easy to turn, but the end product was not impressive. I had some pieces of hickory and my buddy had some ash from an old rifle stock project. (Yes, it was really an ash rifle stock which won an award at Dixon's)
The cheap no-name wooden dowels from Lowe's or Home Depot are not great. We did a few and they were easy to turn, but the end product was not impressive. I had some pieces of hickory and my buddy had some ash from an old rifle stock project. (Yes, it was really an ash rifle stock which won an award at Dixon's)
