Ball molds?

[Smokey in Oz]

Gents,
just an easy question or two.....
I'm looking at casting my own balls, .490 , am swaying towards a Lee due to their long time good reputation. Do I go for the single mold or the double. Is there anything else I'm likely to need?
Smokey. :hmm:

 

[jimeckersley]

I started out with the Lee single cavity moulds. The aluminum is fairly soft. To eliminate galling, I found I had to smooth the underside and round the edges of the sprue plates (single or double cavity.) Then, I apply a graphite lube to the sprue plate and hinge pins.

The double cavity mould is faster to use and the quality of cast balls is the same. There’s more variation from ball to ball than there is between the two cavities. So, I’ve gradually upgraded to 2 cavity, or more, moulds whenever I could.

So, go for the 2 cavity. They’re worth the small additional price.

 

[bwhoffman]

do the 2!


Brett

 

[Swampman]

There are some nice period style molds on eBay.

 

[Old Ironsights]

There are some nice period style molds on eBay.

Sigh... Using hand-smelted cast iron no doubt... :shake:

I do believe he is interested in casting bullets, not showing other rendevousers that he can cast bullets over an open fire in a PC way.

There is a reason Lee moulds are made of that non PC modern aluminium stuff... they work better for production.

However, it is nice to know where to look to buy the toys you need to look good at the Rendevous.

Thanks for the tip.

 

[Le Grand]

Mark Lewis, Thanks for the tip. I'll be sure to look there. Some of those old bullet molds are real treasures. Le Grand

 

[sledgemeister]

hey smokey,
Gotta ask ya mate how much you going to shoot?
I have a single mold for mine and a double, I can mold about a 150 - 200 with a single mold in a hour and about 300-350 with a double.
Whats the price difference between a double and a single?
If price isnt much difference go with the double for sure if not I reckon a single be just fine.
BTW a quick search on ebay and I found this single one available:[url] http://cgi.ebay.com[/url].au/LEE-BULLET-MOLD-490-176GR-ROUND-BALL_W0QQitemZ7234253920QQcategoryZ71118QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

got about 10 hours left on it if postage not too bad might be worth a look.

Cheers
Rob

 

[roo shooter]

I have a double lee mould for casting .58, 440 grain R.E.A.L bullets,which iam happy with,i find it very easy to use,i just smoke the cavity with a match or candle and go to it.

 

[Deadeye]

Definitely go for the double and not just one but get two. Alternate from one to the other, this is especially useful if your using the aluminum molds, keeps them from overheating.

 

[Dave_B]

I have a single cavity Lee .490 mold and it works great. I have cast about 15 lbs of round balls with no problems so far. :shocked2:
I would go for the 2 up if I was going to do it again.
A Lyman dipper and a mallet for the sprue plate is a good idea.
Dave

 

[sledgemeister]

Why not drill a couple holes on the sprue plate and add a handle?
Works great on two of my pistol calibre molds, ya dont have to acky thump the sprue plate with a mallet or a piece of wood.

 

[mmahlock]

Just my $.02 worth.

Get a Steel 2 cavity mould. Don't forget the Mould Prep. And also get an EZ Mould handle for the Sprue Cutter.

I recommend Steel after using both Steel and Aluminum and in my experience Aluminum doesn't hold the heat as well for good consistant casting. JMHO :thumbsup:

 

[Jon in MI]

thanks for the tip Mark, I'm going to check for modern molds too.


Jon

 

[Dave_B]

Not a bad idea!
Actually, I use a soft faced hammer and push the sprue plate open with the top of the hammer the instant the sprue puddle solidifies. After another second or so, I'll open the mold and if the ball is a bit reluctant to pop out on it's own, I'll gently whack the hinge a bit with the hammer. Works for me.

 

[sequoia]

I use a small wooden mallet from an old Tandy kit to open the sprue cutter and encourage my balls out of the mould. Just make sure that you tap on the hinge and not on the mould or else you may knock the mould out of alignment. By the way I don't consider my .490 Rapine mold a "toy".

 

[hawk]

I agree with SirMichael .
A gang mold is good for production.
a single, one piece handle and mold of iron is good for show.
just like Mel gibson in the Patriot!

 

[Smokey in Oz]

Thanks for the replies guys.

So....Sledgemeister.... are you interested in offloading that ol' single mold for a fair price? :hmm:
Am yet to talk with the bloke I bought the rifle off, he might just sell me his. I missed our BP rifle shoot yesterday due to work commitments ($2M fire at work keeping me busy) so couldn't ask him.
Smokey. :thumbsup:

 

[mmahlock]

I still get a kick out of watching Mel fill the mould, open it up drop the ball on the ground and then pick it up and cut off the sprue. :rotf: :bull: It takes my balls a considerable time before I can pick them up with my bare hand. :thumbsup:

 

[sledgemeister]

I dont have a "ball" mold I have a 2 x BP conical molds and a few pistol calibre ones. I wont be shooting PRB out of the Enfield in any case they not accurate enough.
$2 fire? do you mean the cherry ware house one in spreyton?

Hey in any case mines a .58 cal I thought you had a .50cal?

 

[bnail]

I use a small wooden mallet from an old Tandy kit to open the sprue cutter and encourage my balls out of the mould. Just make sure that you tap on the hinge and not on the mould or else you may knock the mould out of alignment. By the way I don't consider my .490 Rapine mold a "toy".

I've got an old lee mould for a little pocket pistol I own, but have never had any luck with the sprue cutter. I much prefer my Rapine, it's slower, certainly, but it was never intended for mass production anyway. one of the these days I'll get me a gang mould for the heavy duty casting but for now, 15 or twenty round ball every now and then is all I really need.