Ball Pullers

[TarponStalker]

In all the years I have enjoyed shooting back powder I have only tried twice to pull a round ball. Both unsuccessfully.
I’ve only tried one type of ball puller. It’s one that I bought many years ago that had the brass centering collar on it. It’s probably from TC or CVA. It doesn’t start threading in the ball well then either just tears out or I can’t get it to pull out. Maybe it’s swelling the ball?
I have an idea the screw is a larger diameter and steeper thread angle than it should be. I e see some pictured that were much “sharper”.
The reason I ask if this. I hunt a lot with flintlocks. Even with great care I find that after several days hunting and keeping my gun loaded I’m likely to get hangfires. Sshheeeeeeboom!! Not want I want when the moment if truth arrives. I pick the flash hole every time and sometimes multiple times per day.
I’d really like to be able to pull the charge and reload after every couple days just to see if that’s better I don’t want to shoot/clean to do this as I do t have great conditions at camp to make sure it’s dry and clean enough to reload.
I have a 48 inch cleaning rod but it doesn’t have a fixed T handle on it. I have an idea I may need that to get the best pull. And I’d like to order another puller after I see what everyone on here uses for the job.
Some people make it sound so easy.
Thanks for your input.

 

[Grimord]

Why not use a C02 discharger with the flint lock touch hole adapter. I have unloaded my flint locks with these devices for years. They work well, just be sure to have a few extra C02 cartridges available when needed. RMC Oxyoke carries a dis charger with the flint lock attachment.

 

[Grenadier1758]

There will be those of us that will suggest that the ball be shot out. My first concern is why is @TarponStalker having the hangfire in the first place. Judging from the fact that his location is Florida and from his name he is probably on the coast in an environment of high humidity. It is probably a good idea to pull the load daily to aid in keeping the breech area dry and free of accumulating oils. Cleaning with rubbing or denatured alcohol will be needed to keep the breech dry so when he is ready to fire there won't be moisture.

Which leads us into how to pull the load. From his comment on the sheeeesh-boom, I am going to assume he is shooting a flint lock rifle. His ball puller is a good one with the collar to keep the puller centered on the ball.

He does need the Tee handle on the rod to get the threads of the puller into the lead. The Tee handle is then placed over a sturdy support to pull the ball out. Yes, the threading of the puller into the ball will expand the ball and make it more difficult to remove. I have one puller that had a drill to make a starter hole and deep threads on the puller to engage the ball. Works quite well. I didn't see any in the catalogs on quick look. Originally mine came from the Hawken Shop when it was in St. Louis. Care must be taken to prevent the puller from going all the way through the ball. That will make shooting the ball out a bit more difficult and a CO2 discharger nearly impossible.

I will also suggest that he get a CO2 discharger with the flint lock attachment to blow the ball out. I am cautious in this suggestion in that if the touch hole liner is slotted then the CO2 fitting can't properly seal the touch hole and it won't have the pressure to blow the ball out.

 

[Rifleman1776]

probably a good idea to pull the load daily to aid in keeping the breech area dry and free of accumulating oils.

Disagree, Gren. If in the field or hunting, where would oils come from? My practice before a hunt is to swab thoroughly with damp, then dry patch. I often squirt carburetor cleaner into the nipple or vent then swab again. That makes the inside pure and dry. Then load. As for humidity, I don't buy that as an excuse for no ignition on the first shot. bp by itself does not attract moisture. After shooting, the remaining gunk is a different story, the flint pan can readily turn into a mud puddle and the bore, if not swabbed and reloaded promptly, the same.

 

[Calum]

'morning,

Most times, I agree with the previous posts and a CO2 discharger will do the job with the least fuss.

However, I've occasionally run into very tight projectiles where the CO2 isn't up to the job. The photo shows what I currently have - worms, but I tend to heat them and bend the tines down for a better bite.

This (Ball Pullers, steel screws with brass collars - Track of the Wolf) is on the list, because the screw ratio is supposed to be better and keep it from pulling out. Figure one can never have too many options.

I'm betting your screw is like the one in my photo. I've found a better use for them. If your ramrod is threaded on both ends, get a short piece of hardwood dowel, drill a small hole in it, and (using epoxy), screw the useless puller in. That'll give you a light, easily added handle to your rod for when you need it.

Mike

 

[Dave Marsh]

CO2 discharger has worked perfect for me every time. I don't even know where the old screw in pullers I bought years ago are anymore.

 

[EC121]

The TOTW pullers are tapered with wide threads. They get a good grip, but if it pulls out, you can turn it in a little farther and get another bite. To pull a ball easily you should pour some liquid down the barrel and let it sit a minute. That wouldn't work in the woods. You would just have to dry the barrel. I have better luck by not priming until I see game. I plug the hole with a round toothpick and leave it loaded for weeks. A dry barrel stays dry.

 

[Dusty_Traveler]

For my ball puller setup I use a 5/16'" synthetic super rod (pinned) I keep for cleaning and unloading. It is threaded 10/32 on each end.

I use these type ball pullers from track. With the collar. The geometry is a lot better. That screw can go almost all the way through the ball and not expand it so much that it's hard to pull out.


I use a 10/32 brass T handle on the other end. Its worth it's weight. Close your hand around the ramrod and bump up into the T handle firmly like a slide hammer. It'll come out.

 

[pwbsmokey]

In all the years I have enjoyed shooting back powder I have only tried twice to pull a round ball. Both unsuccessfully.
I’ve only tried one type of ball puller. It’s one that I bought many years ago that had the brass centering collar on it. It’s probably from TC or CVA. It doesn’t start threading in the ball well then either just tears out or I can’t get it to pull out. Maybe it’s swelling the ball?
I have an idea the screw is a larger diameter and steeper thread angle than it should be. I e see some pictured that were much “sharper”.
The reason I ask if this. I hunt a lot with flintlocks. Even with great care I find that after several days hunting and keeping my gun loaded I’m likely to get hangfires. Sshheeeeeeboom!! Not want I want when the moment if truth arrives. I pick the flash hole every time and sometimes multiple times per day.
I’d really like to be able to pull the charge and reload after every couple days just to see if that’s better I don’t want to shoot/clean to do this as I do t have great conditions at camp to make sure it’s dry and clean enough to reload.
I have a 48 inch cleaning rod but it doesn’t have a fixed T handle on it. I have an idea I may need that to get the best pull. And I’d like to order another puller after I see what everyone on here uses for the job.
Some people make it sound so easy.
Thanks for your input.

Try a ball pulling jag from Track of the Wolf. They have a constant taper that ends in a sharp point. Most of the screws have very little taper then they abruptly taper near the end resulting a a blunt point that is hard to start into the ball

 

[ZUG]

My first "go to" is a CO2 discharger - then my second "go to" is a ball puller that I make with a sheet rock screw brazed into a brass collar. These two are the only ones I ever need.

 

[TDM]

For my ball puller setup I use a 5/16'" synthetic super rod (pinned) I keep for cleaning and unloading. It is threaded 10/32 on each end.

I use these type ball pullers from track. With the collar. The geometry is a lot better. That screw can go almost all the way through the ball and not expand it so much that it's hard to pull out.
View attachment 178039

I use a 10/32 brass T handle on the other end. Its worth it's weight. Close your hand around the ramrod and bump up into the T handle firmly like a slide hammer. It'll come out.

Try a ball pulling jag from Track of the Wolf. They have a constant taper that ends in a sharp point. Most of the screws have very little taper then they abruptly taper near the end resulting a a blunt point that is hard to start into the ball

My first "go to" is a CO2 discharger - then my second "go to" is a ball puller that I make with a sheet rock screw brazed into a brass collar. These two are the only ones I ever need.

The TOTW tapered jag was going to be my recommendation. And the CO2 is a good idea to. I don't have one, but I might pick one up.

 

[new2bp]

For my ball puller setup I use a 5/16'" synthetic super rod (pinned) I keep for cleaning and unloading. It is threaded 10/32 on each end.

I use these type ball pullers from track. With the collar. The geometry is a lot better. That screw can go almost all the way through the ball and not expand it so much that it's hard to pull out.
View attachment 178039

I use a 10/32 brass T handle on the other end. Its worth it's weight. Close your hand around the ramrod and bump up into the T handle firmly like a slide hammer. It'll come out.

Ripped right out of the top of a maxiball for me... For my revolver I used a 3" drywall screw since I could remove cylinder, etc.

 

[TarponStalker]

Thank you everyone. Great information. Those tapered screws look like they’d work better than what I have. I’m sure I’ll need to put a T handle on my rods.

Calum your idea is great for using the useless screw.

I may eventually buy a CO2 kit too. I’ve never tried thst with a flintlock.

I doubt I have oil in my barrel. I take great care when I’m loading. Including swabbing and a few drops of alcohol hours before I load. I never have the delays unless I’ve sat loaded for days.
I use to use toothpicks to block touch hole until the tip of one broke off in the hole one morning before daylight. Now I use leather to keep water out.

But isnt this why we why we use these guns? It’s always the extra challenge that makes me enjoy hunting with them. I just strive to know what causes problems and how to correct them.

 

[French Colonial]

The TOTW ball pullers are the best I have ever used, get some way to hold the ramrod secure and pull on the gun,
Easy peasy (I usually shoot them out however)

If your getting the Sheeseboom your vent is acting like a fuse and 1. should be opened up to at least 1/16", 2. have a White Lightening vent liner installed and or 3. make sure it is absolutely clean before loading.

Stick a small feather or bamboo toothpick etc. in the vent if your not going to shoot for awhile and fresh priming before shooting.

 

[bud in pa]

I carry about 6 ft. of stout cord. I wrap one end around the ramrod and the other end around a sapling. The added weight of the gun helps to move the ball, almost like a slide hammer.

 

[hanshi]

You're either lucky or not as easily distracted as I am. I've had to pull a bunch of balls over the decades which were mostly dry balls. If that didn't work I'd put in a little 4F and shoot it out. I have a long ss range rod with a ball handle and I use that. I once twisted a ramrod in two trying to pull a ball with it. Thus ended that experiment.

 

[hanshi]

I will also mention that all the jags I have are the kind with the brass collar. They usually work with no problems. But some of those screws have a rather "blunt" tip which doesn't readily screw into the ball. I have had to sharpen the tips of some of them to make sure they pierce and screw into the ball a little more easily.

 

[Grenadier1758]

Thank you everyone. Great information. Those tapered screws look like they’d work better than what I have. I’m sure I’ll need to put a T handle on my rods.

Calum your idea is great for using the useless screw.

I may eventually buy a CO2 kit too. I’ve never tried thst with a flintlock.

I doubt I have oil in my barrel. I take great care when I’m loading. Including swabbing and a few drops of alcohol hours before I load. I never have the delays unless I’ve sat loaded for days.
I use to use toothpicks to block touch hole until the tip of one broke off in the hole one morning before daylight. Now I use leather to keep water out.

But isnt this why we why we use these guns? It’s always the extra challenge that makes me enjoy hunting with them. I just strive to know what causes problems and how to correct them.

So far so good. Your preparations for the first shot seem to work. The problem seems to result when the rifle is loaded for several days. I believe it has to be humidity. Black powder is not terribly hydroscopic but can over time start to absorb water when humidity is high. This is seen with the use of 4f powder in the pan. The carbon glazing of coarser powders such as 3fg seem to be less susceptible to humidity. Perhaps using frequent changes of the pan powder or using 3fg in the pan may help. Getting a ball puller that works for you will also work so you can always have the one-day load that you know works.

 

[Grimord]

Here in CT, I leave my .58 flint lock loaded throughout the muzzle loader season, or until I am lucky enough to get a deer. I stretch a party balloon over the muzzle (it stays on until the end of the season or the gun is fired) to keep moisture and debris from going down the bore, and I stick a feather quill from a yellow shafted flicker (nice bright yellow color) in the touch hole at the end of the hunting day. I remove the quill, prime the pan, and I am good to go. I must also add, that once the quill is in place, I also put a leather frizzen stall over the frizzen as an additional safety measure.

 

[Johnny Tremain]

Pancake compressor works wonder and is light weight.
There is one at every rondie I go to. Sometimes it stays in the truck.
I leave my truck unlocked just so folks can use it.