Ballistol for lube

[BigL]

Hi all. I cannot find lard anywhere and have decided for simplicity to use ballistol as I use it for cleaning. Can someone help me with regard to the mix(es) and ways to lube and store the patches. Olive oil is second on my list, so I am willing to be converted if the reasons are good.

Thanks
Lucas

 

[David G]

If your interested in using ballistol go ahead and do yourself the favor and order Dutch Schoultz accuracy system. I think you can still google his website up and the info is not expensive. It not only covers water soluble oil and ratios of mixing but he also covers the other components in working up a load.

 

[wetpowder]

Make your own lard. :thumbsup:

 

[Bob Riegl]

:bow: Ballistol will do a great job with all of your BP needs. From cleaning to lubricating and patches as well, just get past the God-awful smell. It even cures beri-beri, dengue fever, rickettsia, the whistling staggers and the galloping ephus. As for patches just soak them in ballistol and place them in a tin container for storage until you need a pre-lubed patch. Works for me---though I also use my own home made bear grease. :thumbsup:

 

[bwhoffman]

Olive oil.

 

[paulvallandigham]

I can't believe they are not selling lard in your grocery store's meat section. Its usually kept cool in the dairy case, near the butter and oleo. If you have solid shortening, like " Crisco", you can use that instead of lard.

Go ahead and use the Ballistol, but beware the smell. Olive Oil is probably cheaper and available, and makes a good base for mixing patch lubes. The thin oils make for less odor.

Ballistol is a lube, not a cleaner. Use soap and water to clean your BP guns. Plug the vent hole in flintlocks, or remove the nipple, for cleaning, and plug the hole where the nipple sets, and then pour soap and water in the barrel and let it SIT for 20-30 minutes. It needs to soak to let the detergent work. You don't need boiling, or even hot water. They are actually counter productive( that means "Bad ") for cleaning, as when you pour the water out of the barrel. rusting begins almost immediately. Use tepid, or air temperature water. Cold water works, but is hard on hands, and fingers. The barrel will not rust while you are drying it out with cleaning patches, ( and alcohol, to get the last moisture out by evaporating it out!). I recommend using a cleaning patch with detergent poured on it, to pump water through the barrel and in and out of a bucket of water in which you place the barrel, after removing it from your stock. If the barrel is pinned to your stock, then buy one of the adaptor kits that uses a fitting that either fits the vent hole, or replaces the nipple, has a hose that connects to your source of water and soap. Then pump the fluids in and out of the barrel. The high pressure flushing of the powder chamber and flash channel as well as the breechplug, will remove all residue, and alleviate the need to use any mechanical scrapers to clean those areas. Chang eht water a couple of times, and at least, use clean rinse water when you finish with the soap water to flush the barrel of gunk. Clean rinse water tells you when the barrel is actually clean.

If your drying patches show any dark streaks, you probably didn't let the soap and water soak the barrel long enough, and you can and should repeat the process. Some guns require a longer soak than others to get them clean. Water dissolves the salts and acids that are left behind in the powder residue. The Soap helps to break down the Carbon deposits. You want both out of the barrel. :hatsoff:

 

[renovato]

I'm a diehard Ballistol user. I've found that my guns prefer it mixed with 5-7 part of water. Each gun seems to have it's own favorite mix, so you'll need to do some testing to find out what ratio yours prefers. Wet the patches with the mix and let them dry out. This leaves behind just the right amount of Ballistol evenly distributed throughout the patch. A little Ballistol goes a long way so it'd be hard to get such an even, thin coating without the water. The patches should feel almost dry to the touch. Another plus is that your hands wont turn into a greasy mess when you're out shooting. You can also use the mix for swabbing the bore, but generally the patches will keep the bore pretty clean and you might not need to swab at all.

As for storing them, I make up a few hundred at a time and store them in ziplock bags. I haven't had any problems, even using them months later.

I used Ballistol for cleaning too, but saw no benefit over warm, soapy water. I use it as a lube and short term protectant for the metal and wood too. Handy stuff. I orignally bought Ballistol to try and disprove all the claims. I hate snake oil hype. But the more I used it, the more I discovered that it generally worked better than whatever chemical it was said to replace. I'm hooked on the stuff now. Well, except for the smell! :rotf:

 

[cowpoke1955]

I'm with Plink. Been using Ballistol for over two years now. I use 4 to 1 ratio. A little bit goes a long ways. As good as this stuff is, I can put up with the smell.

 

[flm_shooter]

Now I know I'm weird. I don't mind the smell.

 

[wtilenw]

Now I know I'm weird. I don't mind the smell.

Me either.

 

[RiverRat]

I use 4:1 ballistol on all my flintlocks and modern guns too. You should see what it does to a modern polymer stock! I know....I know....sorry.

 

[ohio ramrod]

a couple of months Muzzle blasts had a very interesting comparison of various path lubes for effect on accuracy of groups. It was very informative. Water and urin scored better than many comerical lubes.

 

[bingo1952]

Hey, I've done that. We used to raise and slaughter our own hogs when I was a young lad. It was a big neighborhood social event and several families would get together and help one another out. :thumbsup: :hatsoff:

 

[BigL]

Thanks Guys. Being out of sinc with you time wise means I get tons of info the next day. :applause:

Lard... I will get some sheep fat and cook the fat out, even if it is just to "make my own". I got given some 3yr old lard yesterday by a friend, it is still grease, but honks a bit. I'll try that bit for a test. I think all the excess fat is now being sold as bits'o'bacon. I bought it a couple of times, and it really is mostly fat.

I'll try some olive oil as well, can I use that neat? p.s. Why are most lubes mixes?

I don't mind the smell of Ballistol, but then I have only used it once. I'll try the 4:1 wash'n'dry too.

Thanks for all your help. :bow:

 

[bwhoffman]

if "neat" is straight up, you sure can!

 

[Greenmtnboy]

a couple of months Muzzle blasts had a very interesting comparison of various path lubes for effect on accuracy of groups. It was very informative. Water and urin scored better than many comerical lubes.

I was suprised that urin scored better than Bore Butter :barf:

 

[Oldnamvet]

Water and urin scored better than many comerical lubes.

Urine is a fairly "variable" product. Wonder how they maintain quality control? :barf:

 

[Freedom]

I don't mind the Ballistol smell at all.


I wouldn't think urine would be too good for your bore...not to mention your possibles bag :rotf:

 

[catman]

I do the Ballistol for patch lube only with a 1:7 mix, I mist them down wet and let them set for about 5 days on a paper towel or a towel to air out. I just looked at some today that have been in a closed air tight container for a year and I do a lot of them when I do, they are still perfect. My mix may not be your mix, mine works for me..
Greenmtnboy, I think the old mtn men used to use piss to clean there ML rifles in the old days, they would piss in a can a few times, put it next to the fire for heat up and run it through the barrel. Acid wash for sure, I've got a old 54 that I'm going to try it out on this weekend hunt in the woods at the fire ring..I will let all know what the clean looks like & how it worked.

 

[wetpowder]

:rotf: Don't get er stuck in the barrel..