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Ballistol Replacement?

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PrimitiveHunter

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I've been looking for Ballistol to soak my leather over-powder wads in. Apparently, in my area it is only available via online stores. Is there any substance (like mink oil) that I can use to soak the wads in for a few days? I prefer to buy local when possible and it would be nice to be able to use something that is readily available if I need it in a hurry.
 
Go to the drug store, or grocery store and buy some Mineral oil. Buy the cheapest brand available.

Ballistol is basically mineral oil, with some additives to remove mercury fulminate priming residue used back in WWI. Since mercury is No longer used in primers, and was never used in percussion caps, you don't need the additives, nor the higher cost of "ballistol". :shocked2: :hatsoff:
 
Find a NAPA auto store and get some
"Soluble Cutting and Grinding oil" part # 765-1526
It's very much like Ballistol and was at one time recomended by Dutch,,but there seems to be a slight regional differance (different suppliers), so Dutch just uses the always same Ballistol.
Both are;
"severly hydrolized mineral oil"
 
I'd agree with the recommendations for what amounts to cutting oil, the fluid used by machine shops to lubricate tools when drilling and cutting hardened metals, rather than simple drug store mineral oil. The cutting oils are a more refined product, the lubricant qualities having been enhanced by hydrolizing (the splitting of the molecules into component parts). However, mineral oil will certainly work in a pinch.
 
I’d encourage the use of Mineral Oil over the “Soluble Cutting and Grinding oil.”
Had experience in the machine shop environment ”¦ the “Cutting Oil” as we called it could cause some people’s skin to dry and crack. Some machinist hands really looked bad. This was back in the days before rubber gloves where readily available and advisable to
Wear around the shop. Soooo we kept our hands out of the stuff the any-best possible way.
Yeah, Formula’s change but why risk it?
Protect what you got!!! Use something else.
 
First a question: why are you soaking an over-powder wad? I take it this is not for a shotgun load. In a shotgun a damp wad is unnecessary, will contaminate some powder, and slows the velocity due to the added weight.

Even in a rifle I never soaked the vegetable-fiber wads I used. The ball patch or conical lube is enough to keep the fouling soft.
 
My OP wads are soaked in peanut oil. I haven't tinkered with leather for over-powder yet, but would gladly read your findings.
 
DEATH WIND said:
I’d encourage the use of Mineral Oil over the “Soluble Cutting and Grinding oil.”
Had experience in the machine shop environment ”¦ the “Cutting Oil” as we called it could cause some people’s skin to dry and crack. Some machinist hands really looked bad. This was back in the days before rubber gloves where readily available and advisable to
Wear around the shop. Soooo we kept our hands out of the stuff the any-best possible way.
Yeah, Formula’s change but why risk it?
Protect what you got!!! Use something else.


The formula's still have that problem! I had a real serious problem with the soluable oils and after a few years my body develped a simular reaction to all petrolium oils. Brake fluid effects me the worst now but wd40 is right behind it. The medical term is "contact dermatitus" but in manufacturing we just called it "oil poisoning" Which is why I don't even use ballistol :hmm: :hmm:
 
Olive oil (a.k.a. Sweet Oil) works fine and is historically correct if that matters.
 
I have never had the chance to try Ballistol. If what you are saying is true (and I have no reason to doubt you) that the major component of ballistol is mineral oil. The I will go to the nearest Wally World and get me some Baby Oil.
 
Wally World should have plain Mineral oil in its pharmacy or grocery sections, that will be cheaper, and without the perfumes. If you have infants at home, don't let them ingest Baby Oil. It can be fatal.
 

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