Ballistol

[Dr5x]

Azmntman,
I like the your idea of pulling the soak strips under a consistent weight like a book. I used the thumb and forefinger method and apparently was rather consistent.

I would do a batch that would last me a number of months and never had fabric break down or diminished effectiveness..

Dutch

 

[Jim C]

Before any new material is washed it has a starched like feel and appearance. After it's washed it's softer and more fluffy. Therefore it makes sense that after it has been washed it will be far more absorbent allowing the mixture to more evenly permeate the material....Right?

 

[Billnpatti]

I have considered using a cheapo meat tenderizer contraption with rollers but then used an old book laying on the table, put strips under book and pull through, its weight & pressure are constant.

The book idea is a good one. I use that method to keep a constant pressure on thread when I am wrapping the guides on a flyrod.

 

[Okie Hog]

X2

Tried the stuff in the early 1960s. Didn't like it then, don't like it now. Too many other stuffs work as well as or better than ballistol.

 

[Dr5x]

Its funny how the mind separates different activities into different pigeon holes.
I never used it for squeezing wet patches but in some art work I had done in the past I used a roller to squeeze out
air bubbles and excess fluids from artwork being pasted onto a flat surface. This would have worked well in equalizing shooting patches. I don't know how to spell it but it was called a "breyeur"
I looked up hand held ink rollers on Google and found a variety of such rollers fro less than $10.

The old wringer washer would be perfect and although there were hundreds of thousands of those I don't believe any exist today.

Just Idle thoughts.

Dutch

 

[Twisted_1in66]

I have considered using a cheapo meat tenderizer contraption with rollers but then used an old book laying on the table, put strips under book and pull through, its weight & pressure are constant.

Ooops...now you've gone and done it - taken all the mystery out of how do get that consistency.

Actually, using your fingers "should" be fine too. You'll find your fingers are sruprisingly sensitive and will allow you to judge differences you can't see. An easy way to demonstrate that is to pull a tapered leader (fly-fishing leader) through your fingers. You will not only be able to feel where the leader transitions from butt (thickest part), to tapered section, to tippet (thinnest part of the leader), you'll be able to feel a difference of .001" in the tippet material itself.

But you know....using a book just makes it too easy. Cut it out!

Twisted_1in66 :thumbsup:

 

[Ray-Vigo]

I use Ballistol as both a cleaner and as rust protection, with outstanding results. I use a Ballistol-warm water combination to clean the barrel, then use dry patches to dry the barrel, and finish with a liberal coating of pure Ballistol. I then store the gun muzzle down until the next shoot.

What I do not use Ballistol for is as a substitute for gun oil to lubricate moving parts. Ballistol tends to gel up a little bit. I use Hoppe's gun oil to lubricate the moving parts in my locks, etc.

 

[Don Steele]

"....equalizing shooting patches".

PERFECT turn of phrase to describe what we're trying to do.
Thank You Dutch.
Some guys at the range are happy to randomly squirt their liquid patch lube on a precut patch, smear it around a little, and call it good.
Quite often...they get perfectly acceptable results. :hatsoff: I'm not critical of anybody's choice..but that kind of totally random protocol just doesn't work for me.

 

[Dr5x]

AZMtnman,
Many years ago when wearing a brand new pair of jeans, I spilled some liquid, not beer, on my lap and most of it beaded up and ran off. I
thought "Wow!" waterproof pants, but now realize it was the sizing of new cloth that gives it that transitory new stiffness.
I think that element might be the cause of your novel experiment

Dutch

 

[Jim C]

Dutch, I washed and ironed my patch material, dipped some new strips and laid them out to dry. Voila! Today I have perfectly dry - dry lubed patches! Imagine that!

 

[Dr5x]

That's only part of it, James. Now you have to see hoe they
perform when employed..
You once said you were using linen.
Is your linen tough enough to hold up when fired?

It all come down to
"What kind of groups are you getting?"


I'm glad you figured out the problem. You really rattled my cage.

Dutch

 

[Jim C]

I apologize for rattling your cage Dutch. :grin:
I've already tested it. I got a five shot group at 50 yards from the bench that put 4 balls in one ragged hole and the fifth ball was just about an inch, or a little less, south of that. I don't know for sure that I didn't pull that one lone shot from the group through my own error, but to me, nevertheless, that's some pretty outstanding accuracy because before I used your system I was only able to get one hole groups with the same rifle at 30 yards, and sometimes 35 yds on a good day, and that was with spit lubed patches. I will be testing this new batch of patches soon and will update you on the results. I am wishfully thinking though that I did indeed pull that one shot from the group under my own error, we shall see.
Oh, and yes, all recovered patches looked good, no burn through, no holes.

 

[Crewdawg445]

I would drink the stuff if I could... Okay, maybe not but I love the stuff. Switched exclusively to it for just about everything and couldn't be happier.

 

[Navydad]

I too, like Ballistol..drink it?? No thanks!!!! :grin:

I use it for wet (diluted) patch and an occasional swab... I usually shoot 20+ shot strings without swabbing, with no issues and little fouling even using real BP. But what do I know.. :stir:

Remember, this stuff is basically mineral oil.. our guns are made from things that are made from metal and wood, both of which like oil. Is it good for long term storage? I really don't know, I live in a dry climate, and only lightly (NOT Ballistol) oil barrels of guns prone to linger in safe for a while. :2