Barrel finish?

[1BadDart]

I'm almost finished draw filing my .40 cal Rice barrel. How slick do you finish your barrels before browning/bluing?

Thanks, Justin

 

[Phil Coffins]

320 grit.

 

[Vaino]

After the draw filing is done, all the flats and corners are lightly sanded w/ 220 grit paper....there are some burrs at the corners......Fred

 

[1BadDart]

Thanks guys.

The barrel is filed and the breech plug fitted, however the top of the breech plug about .010" below the barrel flat. I fitted it so the script stamping on the barrel is at 12 o'clock and I think if the barrel is filed more, most of the script will be filed away. Guess I'll order another breech plug and spend two more hours on the lathe.

Justin

 

[Col. Batguano]

.010" is enough that you would see the taper if you wanted it level. On the other hand, a lot of historical guns start their wrist curve 1/4" - 1/2" or so on to the top flat. Of course, when you start your curve on the barrel, you also have to do some modification of the oblique flats when you do that, because the top flat gets wider when you file it down. So it all depends on what you are building as to whether or not you should get a new plug and tang. I personally think starting the curve a little more forward of the plug / barrel intersection serves to make the gun look more graceful, but that feature is not for every style of gun out there.

Having script that you want to show complicates things, but those stampings can be freshened up with hand gravers easily enough if your filing fades them some.

 

[Dale Lilly]

I think there are two schools [at least] of thought on browning. One is a slick , shiny brown with 400 grit or finer. I like a more soft, slightly rough brown so about 220 grit. I don't draw file but simply use sandpaper/emery paper around a flat board. I'm sure there are very different thoughts coming Polecat

 

[Steve Martin]

I have only done it twice but, I draw filed then using long flats of 3/8" thick wood over 220 metal oxide paper to remove file marks followed (in my case) with same flats of wood over 320 metal oxide paper. I browned my barrels from there. Gives a nice satin surface of brown (depending on how many layers of browning you apply), I did a total of four coats on my first barrel and did five coats on my second barrel to get a slightly darker brown. Once complete don't forget a good wash in warm water mixed with baking soda to totally stop the browning process!

 

[1BadDart]

I haven't made up my mind on the tang yet, it's a little wider than the flat on the barrel so a little bevel may work. I'm just not sure I like the idea and breech plugs are cheap.

The draw filing was to get rid of milling marks, they looked like this, )))))))))))))))))))). Plus, the last four inches or so of the barrel on both ends the milling marks were more pronounced, I guess where the mill reversed directions, they took a lot more work.

I'll probably wait until the hardware is done and try to match the finish the barrel to them.

 

[1BadDart]

I ordered another breech plug/tang today, I'd rather do the extra work and be happy than always look at the rifle and think I did it half arsed.

Does anyone know if the barrel lugs and sights are 45° or 60°? I need to order a dovetail cutter.

Thanks, Justin

 

[1942farmall]

I'm almost finished draw filing my .40 cal Rice barrel. How slick do you finish your barrels before browning/bluing?

Thanks, Justin

Justin, what kind of file are you using?
I have a 45 cal barrel that my late father-in-law polished to almost chrome.
Now it won't take bluing.
Sorry to sabatoge your post with another question.
Thanks

 

[1BadDart]

I've used three files, a 10" smooth *******, a 12 that is very fine and a 16" smooth *******. I filed with the length of the barrel and the 16" is used just to make sure I'm keeping it straight with no high spots. The fine file leaves a finish probably like 180 grit sandpaper, I can see a little difference when it's sanded with 220 grit.

 

[SDSmlf]

The barrel is filed and the breech plug fitted, however the top of the breech plug about .010" below the barrel flat. I fitted it so the script stamping on the barrel is at 12 o'clock and I think if the barrel is filed more, most of the script will be filed away. Guess I'll order another breech plug and spend two more hours on the lathe.

The last two Rice barrels I worked with came with the breech plug installed by Rice. They set it up with the script at 6 o’clock so it would be out of sight when the barrel was in the stock. And to be honest, many find the ‘script’ to be the bane of most factory barrels, some even taking time time to defarb the visual surfaces.

 

[SDSmlf]

I ordered another breech plug/tang today, I'd rather do the extra work and be happy than always look at the rifle and think I did it half arsed.

Does anyone know if the barrel lugs and sights are 45° or 60°? I need to order a dovetail cutter.

Thanks, Justin

Most, or at least those without access to a vertical mill, use a triangular file with one side ground ‘safe’ so it doesn’t cut, after they cut a series of shallow slots across the flat with a hacksaw. You could do the same with a regular end mill, then slowly open up the slot to fit with the safe file for your sights and lugs. Only takes a few minutes after you have done one or two.

 

[1BadDart]

Most, or at least those without access to a vertical mill, use a triangular file with one side ground ‘safe’ so it doesn’t cut, after they cut a series of shallow slots across the flat with a hacksaw. You could do the same with a regular end mill, then slowly open up the slot to fit with the safe file for your sights and lugs. Only takes a few minutes after you have done one or two.

I have a very old, small horizontal mill. The plan is to set the barrel up, make a cut with an end mill, then finish with a dovetail cutter. Most likely I'll pick up a file too for finish fitting.

Thanks, Justin

 

[SDSmlf]

I have a very old, small horizontal mill. The plan is to set the barrel up, make a cut with an end mill, then finish with a dovetail cutter. Most likely I'll pick up a file too for finish fitting.

Thanks, Justin

Guessing you misspoke. Horizontal mills typically don’t use end mill cutters, which are used in a vertical mill. Unless I have something new to learn?

 

[1BadDart]

Mill.

 

[Rich44]

60 degree for the dovetail cutter.

 

[1BadDart]

60 degree for the dovetail cutter.

Thank you sir.

Justin

 

[1BadDart]

The dove tail cutter is ordered.

 

[tenngun]

After the draw filing is done, all the flats and corners are lightly sanded w/ 220 grit paper....there are some burrs at the corners......Fred

If you can see a mark it won’t go away when finished.
Browning doesn’t have to be perfect since your rusting and deflaking it tween coats