Barrel inletting jig for router

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Hatcon

36 Cal.
Joined
Nov 23, 2004
Messages
91
Reaction score
0
I just finished watching a set of videos by Homer Dangler and in the videos he is useing a router and a jig in a vice with the stock mounted in it to rout a swamped barrel channel. Does anyone have plans on how to build this setup? It is supposed to work on straight and swamped barrels.
 
Journeyman
I am not a master gunbuilder by any sence of the word but look at a swamped barrel, every flat of the octagon tapers in three dimensions.
The use of a router to ruff the barrel in is a possibality I would think. But to do it completely with a router seems like it would have to be done with a milling machine that is computerized.
I believe finishing by hand would still be the way. even haveing ruff cut it in with a router. :imo:
Woody
 
I am going to replay the video tommorrow to see if I understood what he was doing correctly. I am one to miss the mark if I am not paying attention.
 
Journeyman,

Concerning the Dangler video.. He stabilizes the blank inside the jig..with the top surface flush with the top. The Guides, are templates cut out to match the swamp profile of the barrel he wants inletted. Once he adjusted the guides for size ( I assume, before he actually starts routing the actual blank! :D ) he then just runs the router, between the guides and to the depth of the narrowest portion. after that, he can finish the inletting by hand.

Herschle House, lays out the TOP line of the foream, using the swamp barrel as a guide/template. (The stock profile would have a lil' hump out where the "waist' would be..) Then when he runs his cutter in straight, at the narrowest dimension.. this cuts vertical depths are cut to profile.. he thens finishes inletting the wider sections to seat the barrel.. < hope that makes sense?? :hmm:>

I've wondered about combining the two ideas??

Hope this helps!

Respect Always
Metalshaper
 
John Bivens has a wonderfully simple way that uses two "rails." The rails are 3/8" square bar stock with holes along the OUTSIDE half for #6 wood screws. After lining up the bbl on the CL, the rails are clamped to the bbl, then screwed down to the stock. Remove the clamps and bbl, transfer depth dimensions at regular intervals and set up your router with a template (collar) that will let you rout the bottom flat first to its shallowest depth. Then change the template (so you don't cut the rails) and rout half-depth on the side flats. Use a 45 deg bit, (scarry) or I prefer chisels to remove the "web" between flats, an to inlet the "swamp" and flair. Leave the rails afixed and start inlettng the bbl; the rails help keep it staight. For more/better details READ his article. The original article was published in Rifle Magazine, and reprinted later in Tips and Techniques from the same publisher. The book is worth the $$ because it covers Biven's articles on stock carving, lock assembly, and his damp box - its almost the "Complete Bivens." Its available from many suppliers. (Its unfortunate for all of us that John passed on before he was able to complete his book for Shumway.) Works like Jack the Bear!!! The first time I made and used mine, I was scared to death, but it worked great and saved an emense amount of time, even when making the rails and setting the job up was considered. Alot simpler for the hobbiest 'smith than a jig.
 
Thanks Mule Ear and Metalshaper much appreciated. I will check out those sources. I am really glad I found this forum . Up until now I've had to rely on books, hersay, and wild rumors. It is good to have outside resources.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top