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Barrel length and twist question

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Rick Tucker

32 Cal
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Jun 10, 2023
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I have always had a TC Hawken with a 28" 1:48 twist barrel. I like it, it works fine.

I'm looking to build one and am interested in input on other options and opinions on barrel length and twist. I am typically a patch and round ball shooter. Thanks in advance!
 
I have always had a TC Hawken with a 28" 1:48 twist barrel. I like it, it works fine.

I'm looking to build one and am interested in input on other options and opinions on barrel length and twist. I am typically a patch and round ball shooter. Thanks in advance!
What is it you want to build? Caliber? Full stock or half stock? What will be the purpose? Hunting or target?

I want to reserve my opinion on barrel length and twist until I know what your end goal is.
 
If I was building primarily a target rifle I might go with 1 in 48 twist. I think best accuracy would be achieved without have to use large powder charges.
 
My .32 has a 1/48 twist, 42 inch barrel. My Lyman, and my TVM Lancaster are both 1/66 I think. My Lancaster barrel is also 42 inches long, not sure on the Lyman, I'm going to say about 38 inches?
 
If I was building primarily a target rifle I might go with 1 in 48 twist. I think best accuracy would be achieved without have to use large powder charges.
You touch here upon something I find intensely curious. People seem to insist on slower twists (e.g. 1/60 or 1/66 in a .45, .50, or .54) while shooting light loads (often 40-60 grains of powder). It always seemed to me that twists like 1/48 would give them better results with those light loads.
 
As mentioned by others, it will depend on caliber and intended use. I have owned some 58 caliber 1-72 twist barrels that didn’t get real happy until well beyond 130 grain charges. Found 1-60 barrels in 58 caliber have allowed me to find very good roundball accuracy with 80 grains of powder, yet still hold accuracy up 120 grains and more, though I find the fun is gone before 100 grains.

What caliber gun are you looking at and what do you intend to do with it?
 
Thank you, I'm building a .54cal half stock hunting rifle. Sorry, I should have provided some more details.
 
Most of the rifle barrels offered by the major makers that include, Rice, Colerain, Green Mountain and others will offer the production twist rates of around 1 in 66". That should be a good twist rate for round ball shooting for both hunting and target shooting.

The half stock barrel length is best to be from 32" to 36" with 32" being a bit easier to handle. One would want a tapered barrel from breech to muzzle (not swamped) to lessen the muzzle heaviness while improving the balance. If you can get a hollow under rib. This will lessen the muzzle heaviness.

I would suggest a hooked breech with a chambered flint lock breech plug. These are more difficult to properly fit but make cleaning so much easier. First the breech plug needs to be fit to the barrel. Both the shoulder of the breech plug and the threads should bottom out with the threads in the barrel. Second, the hook needs to be fit to the tang to perfectly match the hook to the tang. Once the fit is perfect, epoxy the breech plug to the tang. Inlet the tang and breech plug onto the stock. Continue to inlet the barrel with the stock tang and breech in place. Heat the breech plug to break the epoxy and clean up the surfaces.

Of course, you could use a fixed breech as I have on my 1803 Harper's Ferry Rifle and my Derringer Rifle. Use wedges to hold the barrel in the stock. The fixed breech is almost as easy to remove from the stock as a hooked breech. Remove the bolts holding the barrel in place, remove the wedge and the barrel can be lifted out. Note: I have lock bolts that go through the tang part of the breech plug, so I have a tang bolt and a lock bolt to remove on my Derringer rifle.
 
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